20 Most Recent KitchenAid KEYS750LQ Electric Dryer Questions & Answers

No the element is either good or bad,but did you check it for ground?if the element coil touches the outside metal box the heater will stay on all the time,this is why the high limit or thermal fuse will pop if the dryer is running to hot,could be heater is grounded,a blockage in the dryer or vent line or a bad cycling thermostat,the dryer is running to hot.just check the parts for continuity,remove at least one of the wires on the part you want to check,set the meter on 20k ohms,say you want to check the thermal fuse,pull at least one of the wires off of it,put your leads on it where the wires connect to it,if you see 1 on the meter the part is bad or open,if you see anything else but 1 the part is good or closed,this is the best way to check parts,there either good or there not,same with the element,it's good or it's bad doesn't matter what it reads unless it's a thermister or an oven sensor,then you need to go buy what it's reading at room temp.but like the element you either see 1 it's open or any other reading it's good that's it..then to check the heater for ground,pull off the wires to the element,touch one lead to one side of heater and touch the other to metal box if you get a reading it's grounded,check both sides of heater for ground

breaker is tripping from faulty insulation allowing current to ground breakers work on milliamp current so it requires a mega meter to check the insulation call a qualified electrician to check the unit

how do you mean it turns off?does the timer move to off or is it the motor is bad,overheating and shutting down?if it's the timer try it on auto or more or less and timed dry and see what it does,but if it just dies and then after a while you can start it again it sounds like you have a bad motor but this is just a guess without being there,this is an older dryer and not to expensive,i wouldn't put to much into this dryer.it wil cost you around 120 dollars for a new motor and blower wheel but if the blower wheel comes off the motor shaft you won't need it,if you're handy it's not a hard job but for another couple of hundred dollars you can get a new dryer,your call let me know what you find and what it's doing,also when you go to start it does it make a noise like a loud ahhh sound>if so it will be the motor.

Look up the model, google or the like and see if u can find some schematics. Its does seem likely to be the belt but u may find a better way to crack it open.

The way to visually see if the belt has broken or not is to 1) unplug the dryer. 2) Remove the lint screen on the top of the dryer. 3) take the two phillips head screws out where the lint trap is. 4) with a flat head screwdriver pop the top of the dryer up by sliding the driver inbetween the top and front of the dryer and pry upwards a little. 5) You'll now see the drum, if the belt is not around it its broken, and if it's visible try to lift it. If it taught, its good. IF THE BELT IS BROKEN OR LOOSE CONTINUE TO NEXT STEPS 6) on the left and right upper inner sides of the dryer you will find two screws, one on each side, remove these and the front should be easlily remove. 7) once off you'll be able to easily see the motor, the belts idler pulley, and everything else. If the dryer is a DUET or HE2 or HE3 style, (dryers that match the front loader) then the way you take the top off is a little different. For these machines, there are 3 to 4 screws located on the top back side you'll need to remove, and then the dryer top can be slid back and removed If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

The way to visually see if the belt has broken or not is to 1) unplug the dryer. 2) Remove the lint screen on the top of the dryer. 3) take the two phillips head screws out where the lint trap is. 4) with a flat head screwdriver pop the top of the dryer up by sliding the driver inbetween the top and front of the dryer and pry upwards a little. 5) You'll now see the drum, if the belt is not around it its broken, and if it's visible try to lift it. If it taught, its good. IF THE BELT IS BROKEN OR LOOSE CONTINUE TO NEXT STEPS 6) on the left and right upper inner sides of the dryer you will find two screws, one on each side, remove these and the front should be easlily remove. 7) once off you'll be able to easily see the motor, the belts idler pulley, and everything else. Leave the drum in the machine. Now, directly in front of the motor on the floor of the dryer you will see two slots. This is where the idler pulley will go. You'll notice on the pulley at the bottom of the bracket a piece of metal sticks downward. This will sit in the slot closest to the dryer wall, and the end of the bracket will slide into the other. You'll want to slide the end in first. Now with the pulley in place take the belt and put it around the drum tread side down. To hook the belt around the motor pulley you'll have to pull the idler pulley towards closest dryer wall and place the belt around the motor pulley. Slowly release the idler pulley and thats it. Put it together and your done. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

This could potentially be a very dangerous situation. If you would forget, leave clothes or something else flammable on top of the dryer and leave the dryer plugged in, you could come home to a house burned to the ground, not even considering what could happen if someone was in the home at the time. If it has been hot enough to melt one of the clothes tumblers inside the drum, it could, conceiveably have been hot enough to have melted some of the insulation off some of the wiring inside the unit. The only way to tell for sure would be to disassemble the unit to have it inspected, which could cost a fair sized bill in itself, not to mention what it could cost to replace that wiring. In light of this I would suggest just starting a search for a new dryer. Sorry.

Sounds suspiciously like worn support roller shaft bearings. When they get bad sometimes the rollers just wobble on the shaft and eventually, if the dryer isn't shut down and repair quickly, the shafts will become severely worn and will need to be replaced as well as the rollers. It will most likely have to be disassembled before a good estimate can be made.

Unplug dryer and try bypassing the thermal fuse by taping the two wires together and plug back in and try to start. If starts replace thermal fuse.

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...

It will help you determine what is happening there...

Dryer Repair Squeaks, Grinding, Clicking and Knocking Noise


heatman101

Asker's Testimonial "That answer was very informative - thank you fortaking the time to educate me. " - teresa241964

Since the ignitor glows red hot and gas is ignited but shuts down after a moment, it clearly suggests that the gas valve solenoid coils sitting on top of the valves are weak or faulty. They work perfectly during the first ignition but shut down eventually when they get hot and do not work again until it has sufficiently cooled down. Replace both solenoid coils and it should fix the problem.

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101';';

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