20 Most Recent KitchenAid 32 in. KECC502 Electric Cooktop Questions & Answers

I wish I had the exact answer, because I have the same exact problem!!! You posted this about a month ago, which is when my unit started having LED "on" problems. Just in the past week, the top left power on LED will not go off, and nothing I can do gets the dual large burner to come on. Any thoughts??? Reply to: [email protected]

I have this same trouble with the same brand and model number of cooktop. Have you found a solution?

it's called a rheostat -no it is not hard to replace ---open the breaker, of course. write down the wiring if you think necessary---then remove and replace. you might want to check/compare the rheostat to one of the others to verify it as the problem

Sounds like that specific element has shorted to ground inside it's sheath. You'll probably find the element does not get as hot as it normally would.
A fuse will not blow, or breaker not throw, because of the point in the element that the element has grounded.

Elements are available from a number of resources.

A way to test if the element is shorted to ground:

Tools needed -

Ohmeter

1)Disconnect power from the appliance
2) Remove the element (Sometimes they are plugged in, sometimes the wires screw onto the ends of the element.
3) Set the Ohmeter to Rx1000 or more.
4) Measure the resistance between the outside metal sheath, and either of the two power connection points on either end of the element. Under any condition, you should not get a reading. If you do, the element is bad, and you need to get a new one. They are not repairable.
5) Re-install in the reverse removed.
6) Check all connections are clean and all is re-assembled as you originally found it.
7) Turn on power and check if element comes on.

It is unlikely the problem is with the control, but it is a possibility. Give me more info about the cook-top (make, model) so I can investigate further.

Held all off/on button for 5 seconds cleared the problem,

Needs to be serviced. The electronics for the igniter section has gone bad.

Mis-wired or the new control panel is faulty. Call them back, it is under repair warranty. The parts aren't cheap! https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/41v4g0ja62-000593/kitchenaid-kecc667bbl01-electric-cooktop-parts ..

igniter failed

Almost certainly the switch, not the element, Had the same problem on a different stove - went to 10 no matter what the knob was set to. Here is a parts list, you should be able to get the part from a local appliance part seller. I used ReliableParts in my town. https://www.partselect.com/ModelSections.aspx?ModelID=815598&ModelNum=KECD805HBL3&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=3&Selected=ZPGZLZRB&Position=2&mfg=Whirlpool&Type=Cooktop&Mark=2

They go under the counter and they are screwed in place

How to Install Cooktop