20 Most Recent KitchenAid KAWS700L Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

you have a direct drive washer with a coupling broke.Here is a good article on it http://repair2000.com/coupling.html

• The diaper pail we suggest using is the size medium Diaper Pail with Carbon Filter, or, if you want a really big pail, the American Diaper Association approved 54 QT Diaper Pail. We sell them at Diaper Safari! They are nice and big andboth have a slot for a Citrus Circle which helps eliminate odors.
  
• Try using a mild and environmentally safe detergent like: Bi-O-Kleen, Allen' Naturally or ECOS. You can also use Arm & Hammer for sensitve skin or Sensi Clean - do not use Dreft!
  
• A Citrus Circle or a little baking soda some tee tree oil in the bottom of the diaper pail liner will help against odors.
  
• Diaper Pail Liners can be our re-usable waterproof pail liners or standard 13-gallon kitchen trash bags.
  
• Sprinkle a few drops of BacOut Stain & Odor Eliminator on the diaper if "poop" got onto the diaper itself.
  
• Adding a few drops of Tee Tree oil to the main wash leaves diapers smelling fresh and kills bacteria - not for pocket diapers.
  
• Sun-dried diapers and covers become snow-white. Try this as often as the weather allows.
  
• Use the dryer for a few minutes to soften sun-dried diapers that get stiff.
  
• Wash and dry new diapers one to five times before wearing - for unbleached diapers this will remove the natural waxes and will fluff up the cotton, which gives the diapers their absorbency. You will only need to wash the covers, Fuzzi Bunz and AIO once or twice at the most.
  
• Spray any solids off with the Mini Shower - it makes makes cleaning cloth diapers very easy
  
• Don't let wet and clean diapers sit in the machine overnight.

• For serious stain you can try something like Spay and Wash.
  

Lid switch needs to be replaced

either you have a bad motor coupling or you have a bad transmission.watch video to check coupling,if coupling looks good run your hand on the bottom of the transmision and this is on the backside of the coupling,if there's oil on your hand the trans. is blown.hope this helpshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Puq8jWMY9Iw&list=PLC38C8713C43C08E6

do you hear the motor running?if so check the motor couplinghttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K1KHEogf3cthis connects the motor and transmission,the pump is on the front of the motor so it will drain,if the coupling is good check the bottom of trans,run your hand along the bottom of the trans,on the back side where the couplin is,any oil on hand you blew the trans.

check your pump down at the bottom of the machine take the bottom plinth off the plastic that runs along the bottom of the machine once off on the right hand side you will see your pump you will need to undo the black screw and get your self a towel and a small and big bowl there will be a lot of water so when you have took the screw out start turning the pump cap very slowly and when you have filled the small bowl close it and keep repeating it till all water is gone then take it right out if its stuck then pull it clean it out and put back together don't for get to turn your machine off be for doing any thing ok hope i have helped if after you have done the pump and the machine still do the same thing then its programmer ok

Depends on how often you use and maintain it. I worked on a 1967 Lady Kenmore last week that is working just fine after 45 years.

you must have something stuck in your pump this will cause your problem the drives brake when the pump freezes up

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

If the water flows then the flow should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.

Check this link to replace the inlet valve:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1408/how-to-replace-the-inlet-valve-on-a-washer-dr.html

Finally after the wash the drain valve will be activated, the water is allowed to come in to rinse and then finally the dry spin with the drain valve/pump activated so as to drain off all the water from the clothes during the spin.

Make sure that a fault in any of the cycle will relate to the specified action, so check the command from the program module and then the executing device be it the valve or motor or pump.

Please check the link below:

http://www.repairclinic.com/Washing-Machine-Troubleshooting?red=Washing-Machine-Repair-Help

Sometimes the spline on the agitator has striped. If not its most likely the transmission. Does it do everythind else?

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

The hum is possibly coming from a jammed drain motor/pump. Please see the notes below:-

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hello Keith, If what your experiencing is after wash the tub is empty but you look a day later and their is water in the tub without using the washer,the water inlet valve on the back where the hoses connect to is not fully and seeping water slowly but steadily into tub and must be replaced. The part number for that valve is 285805 it could be purchased at your local appliance parts store or online at searspartsdirect.com repairclinic.com apdepot.com assuredparts.com appliancepartspros.com I hope will help you to fix your washer, Gene