20 Most Recent KitchenAid Architect KBRA20EMSS Bottom Freezer Refrigerator Questions & Answers

time to get a new one then go to sears

It sounds like your solinode valve has stuck open and may need to be replaced. the valve is located in the back of the refrigerator on the bottom. follow the water line to it. shut off the water supply to the refrigerator unit unit is repaired.

HI,This model was design to be reversible, I would look in the uses and care booklet or installation manual for the instruction to reverse your door. It will only take about 30 mins or less to do the job. I would empty the door, then remove the door to make is easier, from the screws on top of the door.Good Luck I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

The water valve is not closing completely allowing water to drip.

not sure on this model,but try pushing upward on the filter as you try to unscrew it counter-clockwise,some models have this feature to protect against accidental removal by bumping

more than likely the relay on the compressor went out which is a very common problem with all whirlpool brand refrigerators. If you get behind the machine while it is running and take the back cover off you'll more than likely hear a humming sound followed by a click. You have two options as far as repair goes, you can either order the overload relay from a parts distributor, like marcone or apd, or change it with a hard start relay kit. I would personally go the first route since its plug and play, meaning you would pull the old one off and put the new one on without cutting any wires. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong.

If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay

Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

Hi, make sure your refrigerator is level if you hear a vibrating sound. Use a carpenter's level to make sure it is level from side to side, and that the front is 1/4 inch higher than the back. Remove the kick plate and unscrew the feet to lengthen. Unplug the refrigerator and vacuum the condenser on the back of the unit. If the noise still comes from the condenser, replace it. Locate the compressor - a medium-sized black box on the rear of the unit. If the nose is coming from there, it must be replaced. Contact a repair center.

This link should get you started http://appliancehelponline.com/refericemaker.html

it sounds like its the compressor packed up, bit you could be lucky and its just one of the thermostats stoped working,,,

theres aproblem here, I dontquestion that your hearing something operating, but if the valve is being activated, its going to fill with water( thats what it does!) so if your not geting water every few minutes something else is"buzzing"i would look elsewhere fro your problem doesnt sound like the valve

Likely that the water supply tube to the icemaker is frozen. It will be a white rubber tube on the right side of the icemaker. Warm it with a hair dryer, remove it from its aluminum tubing, and make sure there is no ice all the way back to where the supply tube comes from the water valve. After thawing, your icemaker should start working again.

Now..... why did it freeze? Most likely, there is a restricted airflow to the back of the unit, which is need to keep that aluminum supply tube just warm enough to assure all the water flow OUT of it into the icemaker, and doesn't freeze up on contact. Make sure your coils and the airspace under the fridge are completely clean (vacuuum them well) and it should cure the problem.

Troubleshoot step by step and if that fails, resort to a professional: Check the Basics: Make sure the refrigerator is plugged in and receiving power. Verify that the water supply to the refrigerator is turned on. Inspect the Dispenser Actuator: The dispenser actuator is the component that activates the switch to send voltage to the dispenser. Check if the dispenser actuator is damaged. If so, replace it with a new one. I list a procedure for testing this actuator at the end of these basic steps. Frozen Water Tube: Disconnect the water supply tube at the bottom of the door. Blow air through it. If air doesn't pass through, the water supply tube may be frozen. Thaw it out and ensure the freezer is set to the proper temperature (0-10°F) to prevent future freezing. Water Inlet Valve: The water inlet valve opens to supply water to the dispenser. Ensure the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. Use a multimeter to test the water inlet valve for continuity. If it lacks continuity, replace it. Check Water Filter: Remove the water filter and dispense water. If flow increases, the filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace the water filter if needed. Verify Water Supply Valve: Ensure the water supply valve (connected to the refrigerator) is fully open. If disconnected during service, it might not have been turned back on fully. And now, the testing of the actuator. To determine whether the dispenser actuator in your KitchenAid refrigerator is damaged, follow these steps: Visual Inspection: Look closely at the dispenser actuator. Check for any visible signs of damage, such as cracks, chips, or breakage. If you notice any physical damage, it's likely that the actuator needs replacement. Functional Test: Press the dispenser lever or button as you normally would to dispense water. Observe the response: Does the actuator move smoothly and engage the switch behind it? If the actuator feels stiff, loose, or doesn't move at all, it may be damaged. Listen for Clicking: When you press the dispenser lever, listen for a clicking sound. The actuator should make a distinct click as it activates the switch. If there's no click or an unusual noise, it could indicate a damaged actuator. Multimeter Test (Advanced): If you have a multimeter, you can perform a continuity test on the actuator. Disconnect the refrigerator from power. Remove the actuator cover (if applicable) to access the actuator. Set the multimeter to the continuity (ohms) setting. Touch the multimeter probes to the actuator terminals. If there's no continuity (infinite resistance), the actuator is likely faulty. Remember to exercise caution when working with electrical components. If you're unsure or uncomfortable performing these checks, consider seeking professional repair assistance. Remember to consult your Owner's Manual for specific instructions related to your model. Much of this information comes from the RepairClinic site.

Question edited for a lot more clarity, 'make model (what it is)'. Question moved for correct category. Yes they are, direct or from Parts Suppliers. https://www.google.com/search?q=KSRS25Q+WH11+door+gasket ..