20 Most Recent KitchenAid KEBS177 Electric Single Oven Questions & Answers

Hi. try to reset this unit by killing the power or unplugging the cord for 5 minutes. this will reset the control. if the control continues to beep after you reset, this will confirm control failure. you will need to replace the control board in this case.

Hello

You have the same problem the door hinges need to be replaced to fix this issue again.
This is a very common issue on these units, replace the hinges to fix this issue.

http://www.appliancerepairlesson.com/

No, all wall ovens have a built in cavity extractor fan. When the oven is turned on this fan operates and blows air from the oven cavity through a vent at the front of the oven, normally just above the door. This keeps the outer oven and cabinet cooled sufficiently.

Purchase a cleaning spray. Easy-Off Glass Cleaner, Windex or Drackett Glass Cleaner are all available from local department or grocery stores. You could also use dishwashing soap. Any non-abrasive, bacteria or grease removal product would clean glass cooktops.

Spray the whole cooktop area. Allow the cleaner to sit for about 2 minutes. If you have stuck-on food, spray only that portion of the cooktop. Let the liquid sit for approximately 5 to 10 minutes.

Use hot water. Soak your sponge and wring it out. Wipe down the glass cooktop. Carefully scrub the stuck-on food. Run the sponge over the spot area at least 20 times to remove the food. Wring out the sponge and rub the remaining portion of the glass countertop

Use a terry cloth rag to wipe down the cooktop. This will remove excess water and soap.

if you have any further questions please message me back and please remember when our chat is concluded to rank how this opinion has helped in your appliance situation Thanks again Rick

Hi, Before you go working too hard to get you oven to go intothe self clean mode(self destruct)....check out this tip...

Self Cleaning Oven Problem


heatman101

" Wish I had read this first. I never would have used the self cleaningoption. Thanks for the info!!

Built-in ovens are very dependant on insulation and proper airflow around the oven liner and electrical components to keep everything cool and to prevent any possibility of overheating. During a normal baking cycle, the outside oven temperature is usually well contained within the insulation blanket, and any excess heat is removed by a cooling fan, or through normal convection currents where cool air is drawn in under the oven and exhausted out the top. During the self-cleaning cycles, the oven cavity temperature will rise in excess of 700 degrees F, which translates into higher temperatures outside the oven, making the cooling fan and good airflow even more important to prevent any possible damage to the surrounding cabinetry.

Most manufacturers of cooking products install a thermal fuse or thermal overload device (TOD) in series with the heating elements to act as a safety cut-off in the event the outside of the unit begins to experience excessivly hot temperatures. Looking at the strip circuit of this oven, we can see once the TOD opens the circuit, current can no longer flow resulting in the elements no longer heating.




Because the thermal cut-off is designed to be the weak link in the circuit, they are very succeptable to failure. But if you find that a TOD has failed and needs to be replaced, it is important that you verify the failure was just due to age and not the result of something else causing the failure. For example, a slow or intermittantly operating cooling fan will not provide proper cooling and exposes the TOD and everything else to higher temperatures. Blocked or clogged air vents (under and above the oven doors) can limit the fans ability to move air to keep things cools. Sagging door hinges, or loose door seals can result in hot air from the oven getting pulled in by the cooling fan, and hot air doesn't work very well for cooling. By looking at the other components that can cause a failure and eleminating each of them as the problem, we can feel confident that the TOD has just failed and needs to be replaced

Hello. Get a helper and the two of you remove the door again. Then spray a little WD-40 penetrating lubrication into the holes where the hinges go. Also spray some WD-40 on the hinges, wipe it off, then spray a second time. Finally with your assistant on one side of the door and you on the other reinstall the door. When it is about one inch from full penetration of the hinges use force to seat the hinges. That should solve your problem. Joe

You can get the manual on links below.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%203188199.pdf

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_literature/search_results.jsp?searchTerm=KEBS177&siteCd=KAD

Please rate 4 thumbs for the free answer

Thermostat on the back needs replacement. The problem is caused by overheating the oven. Improper installation or inadequate blower. Depending on the model, the oven might need a new blower in addition to the thermostat. Try calling KitchenAid to find out if the oven needs that blower and get the part number for the thermostat, they might have replaced it with the one with higher temperature rating.

This typically indicates an issue with the touchpad or control board. Here are some steps you can take to troubleshoot and potentially resolve the issue: Check the Cable Connection: The error code could be due to the touchpad cable being unplugged. Ensure a proper connection between your appliance's touchpad and the control board. Power Reset: You can try resetting the oven by turning off the fuse or circuit breaker, waiting for 1 minute, and then turning it back on. Repeated power restarts may allow the oven to reset and resolve the issue. Replace the TouchPad or Control Board: If the connection is fine and the error code persists, the issue might be a malfunctioning touchpad or a fault on the control board. In such instances, it's recommended to replace these parts entirely. Please note that this should be done by a professional to ensure safety and correct installation.

Here is the terminal block for a freestanding range, Page 8 onwards. https://www.kitchenaid.com/content/dam/global/documents/201808/installation-instructions-w10694026-reva.pdf https://www.google.com/search?q=kitchenaid+kebc208kbl0+wiring+diagram+pdf I also checked for a Service Manual, but KitchenAid don't release them. ..

Read off the power consumption of each oven and other equipment being fed from the cooker supply and have an electrician check the size of your cooker feed cable and main cooker breaker. If the cable is not thick enough for the oven, you cannot increase the breaker size! The breaker may of course be faulty, measure the current draw as the brealer trips.

Question edited for clarity, the MAKER, and 'what is is'. Question moved to KitchenAid. You may have a bad sensor. Not sure Amazon is the best place to buy. A lot of parts are no longer available, so you should perhaps be thinking of a replacement? https://www.partselect.com/Models/KERA205PSS5/Sections/CHASSIS-PARTS/?ModelID=679473&ModelNum=KERA205PSS5&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=3&Selected=N7FWPBQ3&Position=1&mfg=Whirlpool&Type=Range&Mark=1 Is the fan spinning okay? This suggests a bad fan. It has a small circular element around the fan. https://www.google.com/search?q=kitchenaid+keri203pbs+oven+not+reaching+temperature ..

sounds like overheated bad control board or transformer

see if voltege to board

https://www.coastparts.com/lookup/278376

lots of videos https://www.google.com/search?q=replace+the+oven+inner+glass+for+my+Kitchenaid+ykerc507ew2 ..