American Standard 738651-0070A Champion Toilet Flush Valve Seal - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It depends on the brand of jet and tub, if it is a gold or silver trim ring, they will generally pry off with a screwdriver, just be careful not to damage the tub when doing so. When prying, move the screwdriver around the jet an inch at a time, just like opening a can of paint. Some rings will screw on, but most just pry off.

If the break is in the flexible tubing that connects the nozzles it is most likely spa-flex. This is the same size as nominal schedule 40 pvc and can be repaired with standard pvc fittings, primer and glue. Make sure the surfaces are clean and dry before repairing them and also allow at least 24 hours cure time on the glue.

Are you on well water? If so you may have dissolved iron in the well water, it enters your house as clear water iron and then once areated in the tub it turns yellow as the iron oxidizes. Another sure sign of this is if the water in your toilet yellows after sitting in the bowel with no use after a few days. Solution: have a reputable local water treatment company come test your water, test for disolved iron, total hardness, and pH. If the disolved iron is 5ppm or less then a water softener will fix the problem. Make sure they add a turbulator to the softener and use iron fighter salt or mix iron-out into the salt tank.

A method or means of cleansing something or someone.

check that you don't have an anti-flood supply hose...they **** lol. If not replace the guts, eazy job.takes less than 35 minute total time. 

I assume that number is off the old switch. It is next to impossible to locate parts such as an air switch that way. What you generally need to know is what size the orriface is to fit the tubing, if it is a double or single pole switch, how it mounts in the control, etc. Based on those answers you would purchase a generic replacement.

Try this catalog if you like (**Warning** It is a large file: 20+ MB) and if you can ID the part(s) please contact us thru www.arrowpools.net for a quote on it.

Adjust the screw head at the bottom of the stopper.

This tub should certainly still be under warranty if it is less than a year old. With my business, I offer a one year warranty that is standard with all of my installs. You may want to try your contractor first to see if he/she offers a warranty. If your contractor did not offer you a warranty, you may call American Standard @ 1-800-442-1902 mon-fri. from 8 am-6pm EST. If you have to go through them, the part should be under warranty, but you will be on your own for the labor portion. I would still check with my contractor first. I do not know any contractor that does not offer a one year warranty. Unless this was just a handyman and not a professional contractor.

Aftermarket nuts & bolts are available at hardware stores - & anywhere that sells toilets. Usually brass or other non-rusting material.

Jet trim usually unthread counter clockwise out of the wall fitting

you will want to fill the tub up and turn the tub on first and get behind the tub and see where the water is coming from. there isn't any other way to find the leak.

If the two parts screw together you need to get some plumbers tape , turn the water off ,dry the ends and put the tape on tight and just re-screw them back together.

I have just been fitting mine today as well.

Same problem - you have to wire the infra-red bits (I just blue-tacked mine facing each other and wiried them as explained and placed on top of the control box to check this worked)....and it does..

Cheers.

most likely you have a partially clogged drain pipe.use DRAINO or a similar product labeled 'safe for plastic pipes' per the directions.

Soap or other buildup in the gooseneck of the drain portion. Try raising the water lvl in the back of the tank and add a float to the chain attached to the flap.

Based on the phrasing of your question, I'm thinking that the bad noise happens for the first time when the valve opens to start filling (this happens when you first let water into the bowl) and then again when the valve closes (when the cistern is full). Valves sometimes have a high-pitched squealing noise when it takes a long time to open or close this valve. Sometimes, you can make it go away by turning the screw to adjust the height that the ball/float has to be in order to shut off the water (the more horizontal, the longer it takes to shut off the flow, and the longer the noise continues). Sometimes, this is just caused by an aging mechanism and it turns out to be quicker and easier to just replace that part of the toilet (they make replacement kits that are very inexpensive and easy to install).

the floor flange..where the toilet bolts go, should be on top of finished floor and screwed down .it should only be apox.3/8"higher then finished floor.you often have to cut a tapered hole so floor flange sits correctly

Hi

Where is it leaking from? is it a single spout/mixer tap?

Please verify, and i should be able to help you

Thanks

Steve :o)

Behind the bowl are two nuts with bolts that extend into the tank. Use a large screwdriver to hold the bolts (they have screw heads) and use a 6" cresent wrench to torque the nuts closer to the tank. Be careful as you can crack the porcelin pretty easily if you overtighten.