20 Most Recent American Standard 738651-0070A Champion Toilet Flush Valve Seal - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Hello their is a product called Plasweld,it comes in a handy tube, Carefully scratch along the crack to allow the weld to come flush with the surface of the shower tray,MUST BE PERFECTLY DRY! squeeze into the crack and it will find its own level ,this produce actually welds the plastic together Good builders merchants should stock this item.GOOD LUCK

Adjust the float so water level stops at 1/2" below top of overflow pipe.

If you manually pull up on the float of the fill valve will it then shut off? If it does, most likely your water pressure is too high, should be around 60 psi. More then 80 and it won't shut off. You may need to add a restrictor to the fill valve. Most fluid-master units come with one already installed, you could try one of them.

If you;re sure its under the toilet, look for a crack in the base, especially around the retianing bolts, or the wax bowl seal is gone, needs replacing.

Either the flapper is not closing completely or the water level is too high so water runs out the overflow pipe. Level should be set at 1/2" below top of pipe.

The older styles have a screw at the end of the shaft where the fill valve is, turn the screw in and out to adjust float arm level. Newer ones have a plastic nut and bolt about midway along the shaft. Turn the nut to loosen slightly, push the float up or down and tighten the nut. Caution: The plastic bolt breaks easily so don't tighten the nut too much.

Depends on type. Rubber ones usually are suspended from the seat by an arm on either side, you pull it off the arms and replace the same way. Older ones slide down over the overflow tube.

Adjust the level of the float, water level should be about 1/2" below top of overflow pipe. Slow filling can be due to a build up of calcium in fill vale, a partially blocked water valve, the washer many times gets deteriorated by the chlorine in the water, breaks up and clogs the fill line. Also many manufacturers (fluid-master in particular) place water restrictors inside the bottom of the fill tubes, which cause the water to fill much slower.

Make sure the water valve to the toilet is actually letting water into the fill valve. Turn off valve, remove from fill valve, run water into a pan to see pressure and confirm water flow. If water flow and pressure good, replace the fill valve.

There should be a allen wrench set screw under the handle at the bottom. just unscrew it and you should be able to work it off...hubby is a plumber

Try using one of these A product called Kaboom Bowel Blaster and let it sit in the bowl for a while, then brush clean. This worked for me when others failed. You can try muriatic acid as a toilet bowl cleaner.Again let it sit for a while then brush and flush available from places like Home depot.Sometimes the toilets are not glazed as well as they should be you might call it a defect I call it poor quality control.

Probably a mineral buildup. Pour a bucket of water into the bowl so that the bowl flushes but does not refill with water. In other words you want as little water in the bowl as possible so it wont dilute the cleaner. Use an acid cleaner like lime away in the bowl. Let it set for several hours or over night,. then scrub with toilet brush. Lime away is fairly safe but try not to splash it on your clothes or yourself. Wash it away if you do. You may have to repeat to finish the job.

remove horseshoe shaped retaining clip. twist stem back and forth while pulling stem. if it still wont come out, you may have to buy a stem puller

change the flapper on the bottom otherwise it runs on