20 Most Recent Pass & Seymour / Legrand 1595-2SWT Combination Two Single Pole Switches & G Questions & Answers

I f you intend to run one light with two switches you should opt for 3 way switches. the wiring diagram is usually inside the box if you by them boxed.

Hello anonymous, I am concerned in so many ways... (USA NEC assumed): FIRST concern: (after the obvious BATHROOM/GFCI issue) is the NATIONAL ELECTRIC CODE for wire/device capacity INSIDE your existing ELECTRIC box... The CODE requires wires to have space ... aside from the fact that it is just plain dangerous to pack wires densely and pack them together tightly... Then... of course... You have said nothing about the wire gauge/ampacity... (again assuming 14 Gauge/15 Amp)... you will have to calculate the fill for each wire and check the Cubic Inches Plus your device against the ELECTRICAL BOX rated capacity... That is just the BASICs of SAFETY. Looking for a diagram of your "1595" Legrand Pass & Seymour I have failed miserably. I have found what YOUR switch looks like... From an old electrician's standpoint... If you have EACH device wire separately thru their respective switches... There should be NO POWER to operate the FAN. The FACT that there is ... Is highly PROBLEMATICE. It would seem that a PREVIOUS ELECTRICIAN has switched the NEUTRAL side of your old light circuit... Easy to prove with a VOLT TESTER. I Recommend KLIEN NCVT (non-contact volt tester) Klein Tools NCVT 1 Non Contact Voltage Tester Electrical Tools Amazon com A SWITCHED NEUTRAL poses an EXTREME hazard in a bathroom (any water) location but is EASY to fix... Rip it ALL apart and properly configure all the EXISTING WIRES... Do it right... Be safe. WHAT ARE TWO BLACK WIRES FOR COMING OUT OF PASS sEYMOUR 1595 SWT SWITCH FOR Carnac the Magnificent

Hi,
White wires under the silver screw...
The black wire under the black screw...
and the red wire under the brass screw...

If it does not work right then switch the red and black wires...

heatman101

Very interesting problem! But easy to fix. It's not a defective switch, just a minor wiring error, which would be very hard to solve via back and forth text. So, instead of trying to figure out exactly which wires and terminals to swap at the new switch, it would be much easier to simply swap the light and fan wires at the ceiling fixture, I hope this is helpful. Good luck, Al Kupchella

Please note that there are many ways to wire this device.
In general, this is how the Pass and Seymour Legrand 1595-2SWT device is usually wired:
There are 3 wires permanently attached to the device, black, red, and yellow. These wires are for switching _only_ and are in no way connected to the GFCI receptacle at the factory. The black is "common", which means that this is the wire that is connected to the incoming HOT (black) wire _from_ the circuit breaker (or source). When making this connection add an approx. 6 inch black pigtail to it. (more on this later.)

The red is connected to the black wire (switch leg) that goes to, pick one, let's say the existing lights. The yellow is then connected to the black wire (switch leg) that goes to the new exhaust fan.

The incoming white (neutral) wire that is in the same cable as the incoming HOT wire is connected to BOTH the white wire that goes to the existing light and the white wire that goes to the new exhaust fan. Again, when making this connection, add a 6 inch white pigtail to it.

The switches will now work.

Do you now see that to power up the GFCI receptacle all one needs to do is connect the (see above) 6 inch black pigtailed wire to the "HOT" (LINE) screw terminal and the 6 inch white pigtailed wire to the "WHITE" (LINE) screw terminal?

In this case the lower LOAD screw terminals on the device are _not_ used.

The following applies to the Pass and Seymour Legrand 1595-2SWT combination two switches with GFCI receptacle device ONLY.

Sorry for the long post, but the manufacturer's wiring diagram for that device is very difficult to follow and I want to make sure that you understand what's what. A basic description of how the device works may help.

At the top of the switch is where one connects the incoming ( HOT circuit from the circuit breaker or source) (LINE) wires. The black is connected to the HOT terminal and the white is connected to the WHITE terminal. That powers up the GFCI receptacle.

On the bottom of the switch there are two (LOAD) terminals (HOT and WHITE). This is where one connects _any_and _all_ loads which are to be GFCI protected, including any downstream receptacle outlets that one may want to GFCI protect.

The thing to understand about GFCI's is that BOTH the hot and the "neutral" white wires for the load(s) _must_ be connected to the LOAD connection on the GFCI in order for it to function correctly. Think two wires IN from the (LINE), two wires out to the (LOAD).

Also, at the bottom of the switch should be 3 wires which are permanently attached to the device, black, red, and yellow. These wires are _not_ connected internally to anything related to the GFCI. The black wire is common and the red and yellow wires are the switch legs (pick one). In other words, individually, these wires function just like a regular switch. If one supplies 120 volts to the black (common) wire, when one switch is turned ON one or the other red or yellow wires (pick one, let's say the red wire) will be energized. When the other switch is turned ON the yellow wire will be energized. Understand that if the black (common) wire is not supplied with 120 volts you will _never_ power the red and/or yellow switch leg wires.

For equipment grounding, of course, the bare (or green) equipment grounding wires are all twisted together with 2 pigtails using a red or gray wire nut; one pigtail goes to the green screw on the switch and the other pigtail goes to the green screw on a metal box (if you have a metal box). There are other ways to do this, but that's the general idea.

OK, after all that, we're ready to wire the 1595-2SWT. Understand that there are many scenarios for wiring that device. I will describe the most common one.

The following assumes that you have only ONE circuit supplying 120 volts to the box. It also assumes that you have separate cables going to each switched load and that these loads are _NOT_ connected to any power source other than the one supplied by the switch itself. It's OK to have a 3-wire cable with ground (black, red, white, and bare) going to the loads. Additionally at this time we will also assume that there are no downstream receptacle(s).

After making all the equipment grounding connections;

LINE connections:
Connect the white wire from the incoming (LINE)120 volt cable from the breaker or source to the the white (LINE) terminal at the top of the switch. Connect the black wire from the incoming (LINE) (HOT) 120 volt cable to the HOT terminal at the top of the switch. You should now see that the wiring for GFCI receptacle outlet itself is accomplished.

LOAD connections:
The two white neutral wires in the box that are in the two outgoing cables that go to the loads are twisted together with a pigtail that is connected to the (LOAD) WHITE terminal at the bottom of the device. OPTIONALLY, if you have a 3-wire cable with ground (black, red, white, and bare), just connect the white wire to the (LOAD) White terminal at the bottom of the switch.

Here's where it gets tricky. Connect the black (common) wire that is permanently attached to the device to the (LOAD) HOT terminal at the bottom of the switch.

Do you see now that any loads connected to either the red or yellow wires will be switched _and_ GFCI protected? If not, please STOP what you are doing and post back here, or called a qualified electrician.

You may then connect the red wire to one of the switch legs and the yellow wire to the other switch leg.

Do you now also see that you can easily add a downstream receptacle to the deal by simply bringing a cable into the box from that downstream receptacle and connect it to the load side of the GFCI?

I hope this helps. BE SAFE and don't forget to turn OFF the circuit and test it to make sure it is OFF.

Determine if OTHER circuits are tied to this GFCI.

If none are, then there is probably moisture getting into the unit and tripping it. It takes less than 5 milliampers of current leakage to trip these.

Most of thes ALLOW other circuits to be fed and protected by the single unit by attaching to a second set of connections on the plug.

Turn off the circuit breaker (and double check the plug is dead) and remove it. You MAY find insects or other contamination is causing the problem within the box. If a second set of wires lead from the unit, other receptacles may be the source of the problem.

run 14-2 wire to power switches, then run one 14-3 wire and one 14-2 up to fixture..you will have an extra neutral but its okay... just tie all nuetrals together....this gives you the needed 3 hot wires!

No it will not.

Sounds like you have your wires crossed and are turning the power off.

The tab will snap off by grabbing it with needle node pliers. the tab is for a common feed to both the 3way and single pole switches.

You should have three screws. The two screws the same color are for the switch legs going out. The odd colored screw should be for power in.

Hot wire to brass-colored screw Neutral to silver colored screw http://waterheatertimer.org/Basic-house-wiring.html#test Gene If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Not sure which switch you are installing http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html Gene If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Use the identified screw (different color then the other two) and any one of the other two. I do not know what switch you have but I assume the two identecial screws are on the same side. Put the one with the wire down, then hopefully when the switch if moved up it will turn or, if backwards just rotate the switch.