Lincoln Electric K1170 AC-225 Stick Welder - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

If you're talking about an AC 225 "Cracker box", the cord attached directly to the power switch and grounds directly to the chassis of the machine. Take care when removing the cover screws as not all need to be removed. There are one 5/16" screw in the recessed area at the back of the machine, two directly under the recessed area, and 2-3 3/8" bolts at the bottom rear. When those are removed, the machine will tilt front/backwards... That's normal. It's been a while since I opened one of these up. Hope I remembered the screw positions correctly.
When you remove the rear cover, you'll see the switch and how the old cord is attached. Good luck.

The green wire gets attached to the frame .

in the back. you probably have to strip some of your lead cable to the copper and connect it to the back of the welder.

try striking the rod like a match. keep a good arc, not too long or short. try around 90 amps.

won't have reverse polarity. There are only 3 wires, 2 power and one ground. It does not matter what power lead goes to what side.

my dad has the same problem.he says it need an exciter.

use the same size thats on it now!

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly. Here is the 48 page user's manual for a 175 HD.
http://content.lincolnelectric.com//pdfs/products/navigator/im/IM825.pdf
The HD stands for Home Depot.

This certainly appears to be the manual your looking for. If not respond here and I will look again.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Can you give some more details?? What are you welding, what type of rod are your using, is your polarity the correct way, Properly grounded, does whatever your welding have a coating on it mill scale included I might be able to help you out if you can give some more details thanks

Look on the specifications plate...there will be an input voltage and/or current/wattage rating. If you need to convert watts to amperage then you would use the following formula:
p=e x i or watts divided by volts will give you the current(amps). I think that unit is 240vac(mine is) and I use a 40A 240vac breaker and have no problems(thats 9600 watts)..you will want to choose a breaker as close to the max rating as possible...don't go too high or the breaker won't trip if something goes wrong

Have you disconnected the transformer wires from the block in the back and used an ohm meter to see if you are getting a reading through the wires? If you don't have a reading or no beep then you may have a bad transformer. Also check the wiring running from the block to the transformer to make sure the wires are not burnt or coming loose. Have you tried to weld on different settings? Look on the back of the tremels to make sure you don't have burnt spots on the switches. Make sure leads are good and ground is good.

Hi, double check the leed connections in the handle, these can come loose or the cable may be degrading.
Hope this helps

Any local Airgas shop should be able to get you one or take the switch to Grainger and see if they can get you a replacement.

The only way to get to the tremals should be removing the screws on the top back plate where you can see them. The plate on the front is just a plate and you cannot see through to the back side.

What are you wiring? Power Cord? Fan? Transformer? You should see a white wiring block in the lower right corner if you are looking from the back. On the two top post the black and white wires are attached. The green ground wire is attached to the case. On the two bottom poles the fan lines attach one on each side and the transformer wires that are coming up from the transformer are attached on the same poles as the fan wires.

You would have to run a 3 wire cable size 8 awg minimum to handle 50 amps at 75 feet.

Unplug the unit. Remove the back. Take the input wires off the transformer. Using a DMM check for resistance. It should be more than zero around 2 to 5 ohms. Remove the output and do the same thing. If either winding is at zero ohms your transformer is bad and I would suspect it would cost more to replace than a new unit. If you need more help let me know.

hardrocko

Thanks for using FixYa and the generous rating.

open the area were the role of wire is and check when trigger pulled if any action to feed motor. [wire might be stuck at end, or there usually is a small fuse in that area for feed motor]

it doesn't matter which one you use because it's alternating current, normally the longer one is your electrode holder cable so you have more cable to move around with,but either way it will work, if it's a D.C. welder then all your doing is using reverse polarity and in some cases welding this type of welding is superior to straight polarity

Not exactly familiar with this motor but in most ignition systems with points, the wire running to the points is a special resistor wire. It has a certain amount of resistance built into the wire to keep from burning up the points. Maybe you can find some kind of older motor with points and order a resistor wire for that motor to use in your lincoln if you can't get the right wire from Lincoln.