20 Most Recent Cooper Wiring Devices Combination Switch & Receptacle Questions & Answers

The switch/receptacle pictured can be wired a number of ways. If you want to switch the attached receptacle you will leave the tab on between the brass colored screws and attach your HOT wire to the brass screw on the opposite side. The bare or green ground wire will attach to the ground screw. The white Neutral wire will attach to the silver colored screw.

GFCI's don't usually come with a switch.

Black wire to brass connection on switch. White wire to silver connector on receptacle. Add a wire from the silver side of switch to the brass side of the receptacle. When switch is on current flows through to it to receptacle then out white when something is connected to the receptacle.

If the wiring is BX cable (that is, the two wires are inside a flexible metal jacket that looks like a fat coil spring) (you would see the end of the metal jacket inside the box), and the box is metal, then the box is already grounded and you can install a jumper wire from the box to the ground terminal on the outlet. You might have to add a screw to the box. But if you don't have a grounded box, then the right thing to do is to rewire it all the way back to the main panel. On the other hand, if you simply skip the ground wire, the switch and outlet will work but they will be a little more dangerous than before because now you will have what LOOKS like a grounded outlet, but isn't. By the way, you should be using a ground fault protected outlet in a bathroom.Good luck, be safe.

Which combo device do you have??Include model number so expert can look at the specific manual.Is this a switch-outlet combo with indicator LED?Or is this a switch-pilot-light combo that controls separate outlet.What does the switch control?What device did you replace?Did you replace a single-pole switch, or a 3-way switch, or an outlet??Add a comment including as much detail as possible.Copy following link for specific wiring diagramshttp://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#combo If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Yes. For each half of the device there will be two terminals, plus one ground terminal. (total 5) For the receptacle, one terminal will be brass and the other will be silver. These two terminals will be on opposite sides of the receptacle, but both will be nearest the receptacle end. The other two terminals are for the switch, and their color is not important. You must place a jumper wire from the brass terminal of the receptacle to the nearest terminal of the switch. There might already be a tab connecting these two terminals together - if so, then you don't need the jumper, just tighten down these two screws. You will wire your incoming black wire to the other switch terminal. Your white wire goes to the remaining terminal which is for the receptacle and will be silver. Your ground wire goes to the green ground terminal. Good luck, Al K

There are two screws on the switch. Connect a black to a screw on the switch, it doesn't matter which black wire or to which screw, pick one. The other black wire is connected to the remaining screw. Both white wires are twisted together under a wirenut and are not connected to the switch.

There is more then likely a broken wire somewheres, its probably in behind a switch/plug/light somewheres... your best bet is to call an electrician and they should be able find the problem with ease.

To wire the combo switch you will need to determine the hot line in the box. Once you have done that you will hook the hot wires to the gold screws on the switch or the black wires on the pictures below. The red wire will go to the switch leg white wire with tape on the second picture. Then the the white wires you will attach to the neutral screw on the first picture. That is how you will wire this switch.

A combo switch/receptacle is handy when you need both, but you only have one outlet box available. These devices come with a removable connector between the two hot terminals. When intact and wired to one hot source wire, this device can be used to turn a light off and on while the receptacle will be constantly hot.


This diagram shows the first wiring option for this device. Here the hot source comes in to the hot terminal on the receptacle and 14/2 cable runs from the device box to a light fixture. The source neutral is spliced to the receptacle and to the white cable wire going to the fixture. The output side of the switch is connected to the black cable wire running to the hot terminal on the fixture.



In this drawing below the connection tab between the hot terminals on the device is broken off allowing for wiring two separate source, one for the light and one for the receptacle. With this arrangement the switch controls a light and the receptacle outlet is constantly hot.
Source 1 comes in at the light fixture and a 14/2 loop runs to the switch half on the device. The hot from the source is spliced to the black wire on the loop and the source neutral connects directly to the fixture. At the combo device the black wire from the loop is connected to the input and the white wire is connected to the output. The cable ground wire is not used and should be taped and folded to the back of the boxes, out of the way.
Source 2 comes in at the device box where the hot and neutral wires are connected to the corresponding terminals on the receptacle half of the device.





Or you can go to the link below. At the bottom will tell you how to wire.

http://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/wiring_switches.html

How many sets of wires are coming into the box?
If the box is in the middle of the circuit you will have a power-source black & white wire coming in and a power-source black & white wire going out. And in this case for the switch - there must be a black and a white wire going to a light.

Typically with a switch/outlet combination all the white wires will splice together with a white pig-tail wire to feed the neutral side of the device. The two black wires from the power-source will splice together with a black pig-tail and feed the hot-side of the device. The black wire going to the light will go on one side of the switch.

Looking at outlet/switch device from the front the large slot side of the outlet will be the neutral side and the smaller outlet slot will be the hot side. The neutral side screws will be steel colored and the hot side screws will be brass colored. The white wires will go to the neutral side steel colored screws, and the black wires will go on the hot side brass colored screws on the outlet.

The black wire comig into the box from the light is called a switchleg and goes to a brass screw on one side of the switch. The brass screw on the otherside of the switch will be for the black wire coming from the power-source.

Hope this helps - and please:

TURN THE BREAKER OFF BEFORE YOU START WORKING WITH THE WIRES!

Don't hardwire the disposal. That's against plumbing and electrical code. House will not pass inspection.

That being said.
Electricians don't guess, they test.

Note which wires were connected on same screw.
Do not untwist any wires..
Separate individual wires for testing.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. Hot connects to Brass screw on ordinary receptacle.
Hot is identified.
Test Hot to each other wire, except bare ground.
Tester lights up on Neutral. Neutral connects to Silver screw on ordinary receptacle.

Load wire goes to disposal.
To put power to Load, then Load wire also connects to brass screw along with Hot wire.

Don, you need a nuetral at the fan and the other wire from the fan to the switch is the "switch leg" The switch leg goes on one side of the switch and the hot will pigtail to the other side of the switch and the outlets. The nuetral has to go to the fan and the outlets, thus hot outlets and a switch for the fan.

Receptacle needs 1 Hot wire and 1 Neutral wire to complete circuit.
It sounds like you have 1 Hot wire and 1 Load wire but no Neutral wire.

Neutrals are not always present in switch box.
As a general rule, if a switch box has Neutral wires, they are twisted together and covered with wire nut, and then pushed to back of box.

Every receptacle box has Hot and Neutral wire. Hot connects to brass screw, and Neutral connects to silver screw. The two wires together complete circuit when you plug in a lamp.

So each receptacle box has Neutral wires, and you can get a Neutral wire from receptacle box and bring it over to the switch box. This work takes every tool and probably touch-up paint.

Here is a link showing how to drop a wire down to your switch box:
You have to tear out old switch box, and then install 'old work box.'
Old switch box is nailed into 2x4s. Pry box out a bit, then reach in with hacksaw blade and cut nails.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Install-owb.html

Here are two more links that show basic 240V and 120V circuits:
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixyas phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on electric.

How to wire switches

Exterior Outlet Cover Outdoor Outlet Cover