20 Most Recent Cooper Wiring Devices 277W-BOX SINGLE POLE SWITCH & RED NEON PILOT LIGHT Questions & Answers

recheck the wiring in receptacle loose wire --broken wire / connection or improper wiring

I have 120Volt cooper 277 pilot light switch here in my office.
Dang instruction sheet shows wiring for all kinds of cooper devices.
EXCEPT pilot light switch.

So I tested with multimeter and came up with following:
Key to any wiring device is color of screws.
Hot from breaker box always goes to dark-colored screws.
Neutral always goes to silver-colored screws.
Brass screws are for Hot wires from breaker or Hot going to Load
Green screw - ground

change the switch

The Cooper combo device requires neutral wire to energize the outlet.
To control outlet with switch, the Hot side of device must have break-away fin.
Remove break-away fin.
Connect jumper wire from switch load side to outlet Hot side.
Open following link for instructions with illustration:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html#combo

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Open following link for cooper 277 wiring illustration:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Cooper-277-pilot-400.jpg

Wired as shown in illustration, the pilot light and the Load will come on each time switch is turned on.
The illustration show Load is light bulb.
In your case, the Load will be an outlet instead of light bulb.
So the Load will have 2 wires. The black wire from switch connects to brass screw on outlet. The neutral connects to silver screw.
Bare ground wires connect to green screws.

I made following diagram based on Cooper pilot light instruction sheet:
Neutral wires are usually the white wires that are twisted together in back of box and covered with wire nut.
If your box does not have neutrals, you can also connect bare ground wire to silver screw until you have time to run neutral wire to box >> ground to anything but ground screw is not code and not recommended.
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html




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Unfortunately, you don't say what wires are inside box or what lights you are connecting, or what type of switch you are replacing.

So here is generic explanation, You can add comment with more information for more free help.
Back of wiring device are markings that show Line and Load.
There are 4 screws. One brass and one silver screw for each Line and Load.

On back of device are two wires that stick out. These wires go to Black and white wire going to your light.

Electricians don't guess, they test.
Separate wires for testing
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire.
Hot wire connects to Brass Line screw.
If there is another black wire that was connected with Hot wire, then this wire connects to Line brass screw.
Hot wire is identified.
Test Hot wire to each other wire, except bare ground.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire.
This wire connects to Silver Line screw. Pilot light will come on each time switch is moved.
If Neutral wire is wrapped together with other wire(s), then this wire is a) the white neutral for light, and connects to one of wires sticking out from back of gfci. Or b) this wire is a neutral and connects to silver Load screw.

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It is unclear what pilot-light-switch is supposed to turn on-and-off.

Option A) pilot-light-switch is going to turn GFCI on-and-off
Option B) pilot-light-switch is getting power from existing GFCI circuit, and switch controls another Load (light, fan or motor) located elsewhere.

Add a comment at any point.
Bare copper wire always connects to green screw.

1) I have a Cooper pilot-light-switch in my office.
Black Hot wire from breaker always connects to dark-colored screw(s).
White Neutral wire from breaker box connects to silver-colored screw
Wire going to Load (light, fan, motor) connects to brass colored screw.

2) Two things happen when pilot-light-switch turns ON:
a) Pilot light turns on. This circuit is powered by black Hot wire, and circuit is complete with white Neutral.
b) Brass screw that had no power, is now powered.

The GFCI:
Hot from breaker always connects to brass-colored Line screw
Neutral from breaker connects to silver-colored screw that is opposite Line screw.
If other switches and plugs are going to be protected by GFCI, they connect to brass Load screw and to silver screw that is opposite Load screw


Option A) You want pilot-light-switch to turn on GFCI receptacle.
a) Wire pilot-light-switch as described above
b) Black wire from GFCI line-screw connects to brass screw on pilot-light-switch.
c) White wire from GFCI silver-screw-opposite-line-screw connects to any white Neutral.

Option B) Pilot-light-switch is getting power from GFCI receptacle AND you want pilot light switch protected by GFCI.
a) Black wire on pilot-light dark screw connects to Load screw on GFCI
b) White wire on pilot-light silver connects to silver screw on GFCI that is opposite Load screw

Option C) same as option B except pilot-light-switch is NOT protected by GFCI.
a) Black wire on pilot-light dark screw connects to Line screw on GFCI or any Hot wire
b) White wire on pilot-light silver connects to silver screw on GFCI that is opposite Load screw or to any Neutral wire

Hello,
If the wiring for the night light is internal then you can not change it...
If the wire is external then all you need to do is move the hot (black) wire that feeds the light from the black feed wire to the black wire that goes to your fixture so that it is now switched....

Heatman101

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibcGetAttachment.jsp?cItemId=y8QWKImQP7cPVn3GRND9ig&label=IBE&appName=IBE


Hope this helps

Depends on whether you want the pilot to glow when the circuit is live (the main light is on) or to glow when the circuit is off. (The switch can be used either way, and I have used this switch in both configurations at different places.)

The wiring diagram is on the inside of the box.

In indicates that if you want the pilot light to glow when the circuit is off, then you only need two wires (the live and the return, usually colored black and white, respectively). However, you also need a ground. The instructions say that you need the ground for safety (and probably legal code) reasons, but I suspect that, without the ground, the pilot light won't work in this configuration.

However, if you want the pilot light to glow when the circuit is on, you probably need a three wire configuration (plus the ground).

Hope this helps.

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