Question edited for clarity, 'Hmms' to 'hums'.
Question moved from Cars and Trucks category.
If it hums, it means the start/run capacitor on the motor has failed and needs replacing.
https://www.google.com/search?q=GOULD+BGR75+humms
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could be several things that cause this. I would first try increasing the spread between the upper and lower limits. it they are set too close together you can get this kind of bouncing on and off. Also, how old is the switch? as they age they get less and less accurate at reading the pressure accurately and this could be the problem. Longer shot, could be a leak in the well check valve. Water leaking back down into the well and that keeps turning the pump back on when there are no faucets open. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/marc_162a3912222e83a4
If you've got the water turned all the way on, it sounds like your setup is operating normal. If the pump where turning of and on say every 5 seconds or so I would say to check the air pressure in the water holding tank that it's at the correct pressure.
Those pumps last a long time. I do not think the problems are connected. I am assuming you are pumping water up from the pump. The pump has a check valve in the discharge that may not be closing. Cleaning that should solve your problem. Be sure water will pass through the discharge line into the drain.
You can take the cover off the switch and turn the small nut counterclockwise to lower your high setting, as turning the large one, will change both high and low settings, and this may take care of your problem for now. If you have a indoor pump, the pump may be worn and having a hard time getting up to pressure, or a foot valve plugging up, or small hole in the pipe going into well.
J5s is a back pull out. Remove the bolts holding the front casing to the motor. Remove the diffuser. The impeller will either be screwed on. ie the impeller is moulded with a thread, or key wayed .ie a separate metal nut holds down the Noryl impeller and a small piece of "key" steel keeps the impeller on the shaft. Remove the rear fan cover, and either use a flat screw driver (if there is a slot in the rear of the shaft) or a shifter (if the shaft has a hex) or you may have to prise the fan off. to get a good hold of the shaft.Hold the rear of the shaft, and with the correct socket undo the hex on the impeller. either the nut or the whole impeller will come off. If just the nut type. Use cable ties to thread down the centre of the impeller to the out side and join. do this in a couple of places.Use these as a lever point to pull off the impeller.The seal just pulls off. there is two parts stationary and rotating.( 18th may, yourve probably worked it out by now)
Question edited for correct spelling of maker 'Noen' to 'Moen'.
'Fix' as in it is leaking? Or tighten it down because it is wobbly, or something completely different?
Well, we can have a one on one seminar by the internet. I've been a pumpman for 20 years. I can share with you my experience (household pumps, suibmersible pumps, turbine pumps, gear pumps, piston pumps, dewatering pumps, mud pumps, trash pumps, mining pumps, solids handling pump, etc....) Just take your pick. Just send in your e-mail for assistance. God bless.
It is leaking due to a defective mechanical seal. It needs to be replaced. To replace it, is to take the pumpcase off by taking off the bolts that hold it. Then, take the impeller off to take the mechanical seal behind it. Put the replacement in, and reassemble the pump. Just get in touch with us by e-mail to get more assistance.
Move the lever or turn the knob. Check the stop tap under the sink. Make sure the faucet control knob or lever is tight, There is normally a removable cover that hides the screw..
