VAX Appliances 2000 Canister Vacuum - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Go to manufacturer web site for download of user manual

Sometimes there is a tiny speck of dust caught between the top of the canister and the lid. Unlock lid, with a slightly damp tissue wipe around top on canister and then the rubber seal in the lid, dry with dry tissue, put back together, noise should be gone.

Yes, this uses a Bag. AF482 Starbag from Cleanstar. if the bag is not in properly or damaged it may blow thru.

Is there something stuck inside, underneath, being turned along with the motor? burning smell usually means something got caught and the belt snapped. Not expensive and don't know if it's an easy DYI. Shouldn't cost too much to have it repaired or you can google the brand and model and the word belt, see what you find.

mine too.. I got local place to do a deep clean (sic) of all the filters but its made little difference. Hardly does a room before cutting out and then you have to wait an hour for it to cool down. am veryy disapointed

the brushes aren't making a good contact or are loose in the mount

I have exactly the same problem with the same model, i purchased it mid August and stupidly did not register the guarantee within 28 days.......

If you still need a manual, I have one I can scan and email?

You can build a homemade soot trap like what oil burner service reps use. Please refer to the drawing. You start with a widely availabe bucket with an airtight lid (Home Depot sells one in their trademark orange color for example). Along with the bucket, you will need about 30 inches of PVC pipe - ideally you will get the diameter that matches your vacuum cleaner hose attachment. "Schedule 40" PVC pipe will work fine. This refers to the less expensive thickness of pipe- any home improvement store rep can help you with this, and if you bring in your hose and explain what you need to do they will gladly help you out! Finally, you will need a tube of silicone RTV sealant. Cut two holes matching the size of your PVC pipe into the lid of your bucket, and cut the pipe into two sections- one that will sit three to four inches from the bottom of the bucket, and one that will sit one or two inches below the lid. Put them into position and use the RTV sealant to hold them in place and also provide an air-tight seal. On the lid, label the side that has the long pipe INLET and the side with the short pipe TO VACUUM. This is CRITICAL so make sure you do it! Labels, paint, marker, crayon- whatever. Label them NOW!

Finally, you need a section of flexible plastic hose to connect your trap to your vacuum. Six to eight feet should work fine. You will have to be creative to make sure the connection between your new trap and vacuum are air-tight, but IMHO this adds a little adventure to the project... you want something easy to attach and remove, and by no means do you want to do anything that prevents you from taking your new trap off and using your vacuum normally. Hardware stores are bursting with all sorts of adapters and stuff! The same goes for the inlet side of your trap, but hopefully you matched the pipe up to your pickup hose to where it makes a nice tight fit and works without adapters.

After the RTV cures (about 24 hours) and you are satisfied that everything is in order, you are ready to use your soot/dust/fur trap! Fill the bucket about 1/3rd of the way up with water. Make sure that the long end of pipe is under water by about 2 inches. It is VERY IMPORTANT that the end that goes underwater (The INLET) is hooked to your pick-up attachment.... You should have labeled it INLET already.

The whole idea is that whatever your vacuum sucks up gets pulled underwater first, trapping it before it gets near the vacuum cleaner. It has worked for decades for oil burner service techs to keep furnace soot out of their vacuums, which would be destroyed after one or two uses otherwise.This will easily trap dog hair and talcum powder. Be forewarned that inside the bucket it will get very messy and it is vital that you clean it after every use.

Good Luck!

I have just downloaded a manual for the VAX 5130 from here:

http://www.manualnguide.com/dl/20364/

Remove the two screws from the top cover, remove top to expose belt & replace. Replace top cover.

Set up is complicated unless you are patient.
Remove the paper dust bag from the bottom of the canister and then filter ring. Then put in the recovery bucket of which 4 litres of warm water should be added and a capful of floor cleaning solution.
Then remove the pump wire on top of the Vax motor where the blue filter circle is (keep the filter in, do not remove it!).
If the 2000 has a separate pump notch on the rim of the Vax motor head on the outside then you should plug the black cord in that has a washer screw type metal connector. Push, twist and lock in. Then the black cord which eventually leads to a clear pipe with the older clip on wash handle that has to be clipped to the main hose handle has to have the black and see through cord clipped to the main hose and eventually down the extension pipes until you get to the floor head. If you have the older style T shaped floor head the cord should slip into the floor head easily. Then either squeezing the trigger to release the cleaning solution in, switch the Vax on and hit the secondary pump button. This will pump the cleaning solution and water into the carpet. To stop the pump you can either lock the wash trigger to stop the liquid or squeeze the trigger to make sure no other liquid comes out. Generally you can see the foamy carpet solution flowing through the see through rubber hose and eventuallly through the floor head.
To **** up the rest of the carpet solution, stop the pump button and the Vax can be used to **** out all the dirty solution/water in the carpet. Its a big and tedious task generally!
See an alternative manual for the Vax 1000 which is an older model but similar to the 2000. It is free and in pdf downloadable form:
http://www.vax.co.uk/downloads/pdf/VaxGuideNo8a.pdf

If you want a manual for the Vax 2000 hopefully the one on the Australian website will help.

Try http://www.vax.com.au/Downloadsusermanual.html and you'll see V2000 listed.

How to Repair a VacuumCleaner
http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-small-appliances8.htm
 

pls i want put music in my phone but its not possible i need ur help

Filter need cleaning

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V124 /124a. Brushes not spinning. A clicking noise can sometimes be heard with this fault. It is likely that the brush drive unit has developed a fault. For the adventurous it is quite straightforward to repair. Ensure the machine is unplugged from the power supply and remove the tanks. Place the machine down on the floor and remove the brush bar. This clicks into place and is easy to lift out. Remove the screws on the base of the machine that hold the red cover in place. These are posidriv self tappers. Remove the clear plastic V assembly from the machine. This is clicked into place to make removal and replacement easy. Locate the turbine assembly and underneath the machine remove the screws that hold this in place. Disconnect the two small rubber hoses on the turbine assembly and gently pry out the turbine. The turbine can be opened up by removing the self tapping screws holding it together. Do this on a well lit bench or tabletop
Gently open up the turbine housing by lifting the black clips slightly. Keep the turbine level while you are doing this. Inside is the black plastic turbine blade. Remove the two gears and the small bearing and place to one side. Inspect the turbine blade for cracks or damage. If cracked the turbine blade can be repaired using a hot soldering iron to 'weld' the plastic. Ensure the repair is smoothed off by using a flat file. A tiny amount of light oil can be applied inside the turbine casing. Then reassemble the turbine blade, gears and bearing and clip the housing together. Replace screws in turbine housing. Refit turbine into the machine Replace machine screws, red cover. clear V assembly clicks back on. Test the machine to make sure that the brushes rotate. If the turbine is beyond repair a new one can be obtained as a spare part

Remove the bottom cover that is over the beater brush by removing 6 or 7 screws. That will expose the beater brush which will most likely be held on by two screws and a bracket. Remove the beater and loop the belt around the grooved side and around the drive pin. Put back together and done.

I managed to fix mine after a little effort. It was blocked well up in the nozzle into a small pinhole where the steam comes out of the 'small kettle' in the steam mop. To fix:

• take the blue side bit off by unscrewing the two small screws
• Undo the screws inside (there are about 11)
• Once these were undone there was two screws holding the nozzle cover.
• After unscrewing these pull the nozzle cover of and scrape limescale from inside the small hole where the steam comes out
• Put it all back together and it should work much better

You should only really do this if you are competent as there are lots of wires etc. and if your steam mop is not covered under warranty as messing around with it will void this. Hope this helps :)