20 Most Recent Sharp R-1480 Microwave Oven - Page 11 Questions & Answers

the burning is normally caused by a small particle of food getting stuck on the waveguide cover, this then carbonises and starts to arc. replacing cover should return oven to normal

have you tried to unplug and replug the unit/// try diff outlet

It's probably a broken tab on the dooir switch mount or a screw holding the door switch mounts is loose.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.

This can be caused by slamming the door or by habitually opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can find an exploded view and order parts by entering your FULL model number here: http://www3.sears.com (the 3 is correct)

You can also order Sharp parts from Tritronics at http://www.wehaveparts.com

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Look to see if there may be a small piece of metal, or aluminum somewhere in the oven or in the food, also it may be the utensil you have the food in is not microwave safe.

The Microwave oven won't hurt you microwaves are about the size of a pencil.

Assuming your inside light and turntable come on when you try to microwave, with the symptoms you have, I would most strongly suspect a bad magnetron or a loose and possibly corroded connection on the magnetron's terminal.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Here are some links you or someone you know can use for test help, but read their safety warnings first:

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html
(if it's not shorted or burned, it'sprobably okay)

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html

The best place to order parts for this brand is Encompass (formerly Tritronics).

Or you can call them toll-free at 866-779-5835.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Better safe than sorry.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

This is a common problem in one of the damper-related components, most likely the switch, but it may also be the motor or the damper door.

The damper is a door inside that opens or closes depending on cooking mode. If the controller senses that the door is not in the right position, it will shut down the cook cycle.

Sharp models stop after 59 seconds.

See the attached sample photo for a typical damper assembly.

We have the applicable service manuals for these models and have uploaded it to our site here and here to help you. You will need the free Adobe Reader to view or print it.

If a switch is all you need, we offer a universal type for only $5 postpaid which you can order here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Wow. I just read something ridiculous!

Well, never mind that, here's your solution:

This is a common problem in one of the damper-related components, most likely the switch, but it may also be the motor or the damper door.

The damper is a door inside that opens or closes depending on cooking mode. If the controller senses that the door is not in the right position, it will shut down the cook cycle.

Sharp models stop after 59 seconds.

See the attached sample photo for a typical damper assembly.

We have the applicable service manuals for these models and have uploaded it to our site here and here to help you. You will need the free Adobe Reader to view or print it.

If a switch is all you need, we offer a universal type for only $5 postpaid which you can order here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

There are two possible sources; the fan, which may have a loose sleeve bearing (fan must be replaced), or a transformer with loose laminations. The latter is a rare occurrance since most transformers are 'potted' or treated with epoxy resin.  
After pulling the plug, the housing will be fairly easy to remove with a half-dozen or so screws around the edge of the back panel.
If the fan is then accessible, you could block the blades with any insultating material and briefly turn the unit on. Keep fingers clear of ANY part inside; danger of electrocution. If the vibration is missing, then the fan is at fault.

There are a fuse and a couple of other devices which could go bad and kill power to the rest of the oven. Once any of these protective devices goes bad, until it's replaced the oven will be dead.

One of these is a thermal fuse which opens if the magnetron tube (the part that generates the microwave) overheats. It's possible this is the culprit since you say the oven cut off after several minutes of operation. I don't know how old your oven is or how much you've used it, but as the magnetron ages it gets hotter as it operates (working harder), and this could cause that fuse to go.

Someone with an ohmmeter and some experience with testing electrical parts could determine which of the parts is causing the trouble. Replacements are available from appliance parts stores and online vendors. But working on a microwave can be dangerous, so you might want to get an estimate from a service shop if have the least doubts about trying self-repair.

The part you need is PDIFB026/KIT. Sears parts has it listed for $45.49 plus shipping, taxes, etc. (I get a lot of repair parts through them. They are very reasonable. It's also a good place to start when looking for a part. They have exploded views and parts listings for a lot of appliances. Then you can shop around once you have the part number you need.)

For your oven, here's the page:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=R-1480&productCategoryId=0123370&brandId=0958&modelName=MICROWAVE-OVEN&diagramPageId=00001&componentDescription=OVEN%20AND%20CABINET&documentId=P0101304&backToLink=Return%20to%20Sub%20Components%20list

You're looking for item 2-2 on the drawing.

hi geoff


you can try here for one see if yours is listed on this site.

SHARP - Microwave user manual, operation instructions



riz.

That's probably a shorted high voltage diode or a bad magnetron.

Sometimes a failed magnetron sounds like someone gurgling into an empty coffee cup.

We have the service manual for this model and have uploaded it to our site here to help you.

You will need the free Adobe Reader to view or print it.

Here are some links you or someone you know can use for test help, but read their safety warnings first:

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/xformer.html

The best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

That particular skillet is just too heavy a load for the turntable system to handle.

I would suggest a lighter skillet or a different container, otherwise, the motor or shaft or both will be damaged.

It is of course perfectly okay to put metal in a microwave (after all, that's what they're made of!) but you just have to do it only according to the instructions in the owner's manual.

And as you know, metal in convection mode poses no problem at all.

You just need to use a lighter or different container.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Quite often on the compact models, the solution is to pull the control panel assembly off, remove the circuit board and clean the surfaces shown in the photo with high-grade alcohol.

That would include the back of the LCD glass and both sides of the rubber strip.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

yes take it back sounds like a back light issue


shad

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

We have the full service manual, and I have uploaded it to our site here.

The best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics at http://www.wehaveparts.com

Once you have it fixed, if you would like for us to replace your display on the control board, we can install a new display tube for $69.95 or a good used one for $54.95 and those totals include return shipping.

Please feel free to contact me directly if you need more help.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

This is usually caused by either a bad door switch or a loose door switch mount, which are pretty simple problems to fix.

Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" (wiring diagram) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you can download it here.

If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

This is a problem in one of the damper-related components, most likely the switch, but it may also be the motor or the damper door.

The damper is a door inside that opens or closes depending on cooking mode. If the controller senses that the door is not in the right position, it will shut down the cook cycle.

Sharp models stop after 59 seconds.

See the attached sample photo for a typical damper assembly.

We have the applicable service manuals for these models and have uploaded it to our site here and here to help you.

You will need the free Adobe Reader to view or print it.

The best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics.

If you only need a switch, you can order one from us for $5 postpaid.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

Normally this would be a bad door switch, but it may also be a broken tab on the door switch mounts.

On that model, the fuse is located on the door switch mounts (called the door hook) so you've been there, and that's the area to focus on.

The hooklike projecitons on the door (called the latch heads) are held secure by the door hook so the switches are activated properly.

Sometimes a little tab breaks on the door hook which causes the switch to rotate out of place.

Other times, one or more switch will stick or short, and blow the fuse or breaker.

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can order Sharp parts from Tritronics at http://www.wehaveparts.com

You can find exploded view diagrams for this model here: http://www3.sears.com/ (3 is correct)

Here is some extra info for you:

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open. Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.