20 Most Recent Sharp R-510HW Microwave Oven - Page 4 Questions & Answers

http://www.nodevice.com/manual/newmans/upsharp/R510C2PDF/get52893.html
http://www.scribd.com/doc/14151167/Sharp-Microwave-Training

u.s. is all 60 hz. not sure in the phillipines,the only issue is it will cook slower due to the lower input frequency, it shows no electronic control board in the diagram, sometimes a different freq. can throw electronics off i.e. the clock would run slower and not keep accurate time on 50 hz. as it would on 60hz.

there is a fuse inside the microwave...power, clock will work but it will not heat when it blows

Not a complete answer, but may help describe problem: Our R-510B should be the same except for color, and for several years it has intermittently messed up its display. The left side two segments on the units digit won't light up. So a digit 8, without the two vertical bars on the left, comes out as a letter E reversed left to right. Any digit that uses the two left segments (traditionally labelled segments E and F when talking about 7-segment displays) comes out wrong. Every thing else works fine. I can't tell if this is your problem.
This is almost surely a bad contact at the interface between the LCD display panel and the PC board: Typically there is a "squishy" conductive strip that connects them, and I expect grease has gotten in there. If so careful disassembly and cleaning with a mild solvent should fix it. Since we can live with it, and it usually fixes itself in a few weeks, I have not got around to taking it apart.
Bob Wilson

Hi! try checking the capacitor.

On most Sharp Carousel Microwaves, the display stops working after time. As for the not getting any heat, the magnetron or the high voltage transformer may not be working.

First check all door switches are properly working. If they are ok , the defect may be in the key pad. You need to replace the key pad.

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9 times out of 10 this is usually this is a bad magnetron, the other time is sometimes a bad high voltage diode. See components section. Q - My microwave is running and sounds like it is working but will not heat up anything.
A - Many thing can do this but, common things are....loose high voltage wire.....poor solder joint on board.....magnetron.....power relay.....

Q - The microwave display counts down and the inside light is on, but nothing is heating and the fan is not running.
A - This most commonly is a bad door switch, other possible problems are a faulty relay or solder joint on the power module, but a bad door switch is most common.
thanks.

We have the service / repair manual for this model and have uploaded it to our site here to help you.

It will give you safety info, step by step help in disassembly, troubleshooting tips, and part numbers.

Most computers will open this document automatically, but you may need the free Adobe Reader

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Very common problem with the display. It may or may not eventually light back up on it's own.

I would suggest contacting www.microwavedisplay.com. Lots of info and the best deal going for repairing the display.

If the internal fuse is good, I would suspect an open thermal cutout on or near the magnetron inside.

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

Hello. To me, it sounds like something is stuck to the inside of your cavity and it is arcing, as you are seeing a bright flash, and hearing it. I would take apart/clean everything inside the cooking area, something is causing a problem in there. Usually just a good cleaning is all it needs, as the debris is making a focus point for the energy. Try putting a small glass of water, only 1/4 full, and watch while you start it, to see where the arcing is, it won't hurt anything for a second or 10.

Hope that helped, and thank you.

Quite often this is due to grease or food particles stuck to the inside of the oven or stuck on or behind the waveguide cover.

The waveguide cover is usually about the size of a playing card and often held in place by a plastic rivet.

It can be fragile, and the metal edges of the oven behind it can be sharp, so be careful!

The cover and the metal behind it should be cleaned with a mild, non-ammonia cleaner.

If the cavity metal of the oven is chipped or charred, it will have to be sanded smooth and clean.

Then you can apply some high-temperature appliance paint, available from places like Wal-Mart, Lowe's or Builder's Square.

If your waveguide cover is burned, it will need to be replaced.

You can order Sharp parts from Tritronics at http://www.wehaveparts.com

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

if the problem is tempermental then is sounde like you may have a failing interlock switch. this is a series of switches that are activated then the door closes. there are normally 3 and you would be looking for/ replacing the middle the Primary interlock...

Hope that helps

you should be able to do this yourself. Do you have an outlet to plug this into, or will you need to hard wire it into your apartment/house wiring/. If the former, then you should be okay. You will need a bracket/plate to mount the microwave to.

If there's no obvious removable cover over the bulb (most often on the rear or side) and the owner's manual doesn't address it, then disassembly will be required.

You'll need to remove the outer cover (wrapper) to get to the bulb.

Always unplug a microwave before removing or installing any bulbs.

See these links before proceeding:
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/safety.txt
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/disassembly.txt

The screws you need to remove should be pretty obvious, but a special driver (such as a T20H type or GTXH20-100) may be needed.

Be sure to put all the screws back in the right holes, since some may be special grounding screws.

Bulbs can be had in most grocery stores, hardware stores, home improvement centers, and big box or department stores.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

What usually breaks is the door open lever.

The outer cover will need to be removed to diagnose and repair this. Please unplug the oven first.

If you or someone you know wants to look into this, we have critical safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

Once it is apart, you'll be able to see how the door open button would press against the door open lever, which would then lift up against the door latch heads (hook-like projections on the door) and the door should open.

You can probably find exploded views and order parts by entering your model number here at the Sears parts site. The best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

It may be the fuse, which is usually located on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

We have critical safety & disassembly info (including a how-to video) at our site, linked here.

You can probably find exploded views and order parts by entering your model number here at the Sears parts site.

The best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics.

We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.