20 Most Recent Noritz 6.3 Gallon Residential Tankless Water Heater - N-063S Questions & Answers

the 90 error code will be caused by one of two things:
1. the incoming gas pressure is low
2. the unit is dirty and needs to be cleaned

could be thermocupple

Check thermocouple , sounds like it's not sensing flame.

reset circuit breaker fully off the on power outage can call surge check fuse on circuit board If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

bull ****! . If the heat exchanger is leaking, it should be under warranty. If you have and improper installation that should be the responibilty of the builder or his plumber. You may have some labor cost, but not the entire cost. contact your builder

sounds like your pressure relief is leaking. Make sure your home water pressure isn't abnormally high (above 80 psi). As long as your water pressure is fine, you should replace the pressure relief.

It seams alot of people have this same problem All must get ahold of manufacturer and report this it must be there pump's thank you for useing fixya

This means the thermal fuse has broken and needs replacement. The thermal fuse is a white cord which wraps around the heat exchanger. It typically breaks if the unit is excessively dirty and sooted. Before the fuse is replaced you should make sure the unit is cleaned with compressed air and descaled.

Hi,
Have you tried to turn to temperature up higher? The units come factor set at a low water temperature and usually need to be adjusted higher after installation.

Down load this manual and follow the instructions on pages 11 or 12 depending on whether or not you have a remote control. My gues is that you do not have the remote.

http://www.noritz.com/u/products_files/owner_s_guide__n_0531s_0631s_series.pdf

I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!

Thanks for using Fixya!!

Heatman101

If I understand correctly, you have a tankless water heater.
And the water heater stopped working.
And a plumber stopped by and tested the unit.

Call the original installer.
If you had it professionally installed, call up the installer
The manufacturer will refer you to the installer >>> and the installer has to be certified by their company.

A few questions for you:
was that technician certified and trained by the manufacturer?
If you were to repair the heater, how much would it cost?
Was the technician saying that it was more expensive to repair than replace?
Did he say what was the cause?
Is the circuit board burned out?
Did the circuit board get wet?
Are there pool chemicals and bleach stored in the room that might cause the gas burner to fail?
If the tankless is electric, did the wires burn inside the unit?
Maybe the technician was using the old scare-em sales technique to get you to buy a new one from him.
The lack of information the technician left you makes me wonder his intent.

Tankless water heaters are a nuisance when they don't work because they are complicated systems, and the parts are not available at the hardware store. Your regular tank-type gas heaters have repair issues too, but they don't fail completely after just 4 years. Regular tank-type electric heaters cost more to operate, but the homeowner can repair it same-day with local parts from any hardware store.

Mechanics do the same thing. Let's play a game... i'll guess what is wrong.... and you pay for it till i get it right! :)

Sounds like the water line to the sprinklers goes thru the hot water heater. Was it installed recently?

follow this steps and fix it. God bless yououbleshoot a thermostat:

1. Shut off power to the heater at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
2. Unscrew and remove the electric water heater access panel.
3. Using a small screwdriver, turn the thermostat dial counterclockwise to lower the temperature, or clockwise to raise it. If the water heater doesn't maintain the proper temperature, test the thermostat.
4. Disconnect one wire to the upper thermostat to test it. Set a multimeter to RX1 (resistance times 1) and touch a probe to the thermostat terminals as indicated in the owner's manual. Depending on the model and the terminals tested, the tester should show infinity ( open) or about 0 ( closed).
5. Test the lower thermostat in the same manner.
6. If necessary, replace the thermostat. Unscrew it from its mounting and install one of the same model, size, and rating. Once you install it, adjust the thermostat following instructions in your owner's manual.

Test and replace a heating element:

1. Turn off power at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
2. Remove the access panel on the electric water heater.
3. Disconnect one of the element wires and set a multimeter to RX1000 (resistance times 1,000). Touch one probe to an element mounting bolt and the other to each element terminal screw, in turn. If the tester displays anything but infinity ( open circuit), replace the element.
4. If necessary, set the multimeter to RX1 and touch the probes to the terminal screws. If there is any resistance reading at all ( closed circuit), then the element is good. If not, replace it. Both upper and lower elements are tested in the same manner.
5. To remove the element, first drain the heater.
6. Disconnect the remaining element wire. Remove the mounting bolts holding the element in place. Remove the element.
7. Replace the heating element with one of the same model, shape, and rating. Make sure you also replace any installation gaskets.

Test and replace a high-limit cutoff:

1. Disconnect power to the heater at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
2. Remove the upper access panel and push the reset button.
3. Replace the access panel and turn the power back on. If the water is hot, the reset was the problem. If not, you'll need to turn the power off again and reopen the access panel.
4. Use a multimeter to test the cutoff terminals for continuity. If faulty, replace with an exact replacement part.