20 Most Recent Remote Start System - Page 11 Questions & Answers

did it ever work before?

A couple things here. It is best to have a "tach wire" and the system needs to be programmed to learn the tach signal in order to know if the car is running or high reving or dead. If it gets no signal of the sort the next option is voltage monitor, it monitors the voltage for an increase to show that the alternator is running. Either way that signal is not gettting to the viper brain or it has not learned that signal. You need an install manual, did you install the alarm?

what model of viper?

what model do you have?

Your wiring to the remote start system is not correctly installed or your starter wouldn't ever try to work with the engine running. disable the system by pulling the fuses to it, or removing the power line-damage can occur with a starter trying to start while the car is running.

The wiring needs to be investigated, someone has connected the wrong wire, to the wrong thing or left out a relay that would protect your car.

Also, it sounds as if the auto programming, for the remote start is turned on to a preset time, causing the engine to continue running. Read the owners manual and turn it off.

If you didn't get the system installed and don't have the manual-scrap this system and have one properly installed. It's not worth the potential danger to your car. What else was left off? Was it securely and safely wired? Not worth the risk.

Good Luck. (I love remote start systems, but I solder every wire, test using nothing but digital voltmeters and led test probes to prevent damage to the cars electrical system-hire a pro.)

under the dash remove the main fuse or fuses from the main module for 2 min then replace and reprogram your remote

you probibly have a ford and the R.A.P system needs to wake up on the first signal then does what you want on the second

1. red/white (-) 200ma trunk release output
2. red (+) 12vdc constant input
3. brown (-) horn honk ouput
4. white/brown light flash isolation wire
5. black (-) ground
6. violet (+) door triger input
7. blue factory horn input
8. green (-) door triger input n/c or n/o
9. black/white (-) dome light output
10. white/blue(-) remote start/ tutbo timer activation input
11. white parking light output
12. orange(-) ground when armed output

H2

1. light green/black factory alarm disarm output
2. orange/black aux 4 output
3. green/white factory alarm arm output
4. violet/black aux 2 ouput
5. white/black aux 3 output
6. white/violet aux 1 output
7. gray/black diesal wait to start
8. empty
9. violet/white tack input
10. dark/blue status output
11. pink/white flex relay control output
12. orange axxesory output
13. purple starter output
14. pink ignition 1 output
15. grey hood pin
16. blue/white 2nd statis / rear defrogger output
17. brown (+) brake shutdown input
18. black/white neutral safty input

H3

1. pink ignition 1 input/output
2. red/white fused (30a) ignition 2 flex relay input 87
3. orange accesory output
4. violet starter output
5. red fused (30a) igniton 1 input
6. pink/white ignition 2 / flex relay output
7. pink/black flex relay input 87a key side if required
8. red/black fused (30a) accessory/ starter input

Check the installation the ford F250 has 2 acc wires than you have to hook up

The first thing I would do is change the battery in the remote at 12 noon or 12 midnight, this way you don't have to reprogram the time if it has a lcd screen

the reset button is under the dash somewhere. Different installers like to hide them in different spots look in the kick panels or just get in there with a flashlight I've had installers put them pretty far up there. just make sure you don't pull on any wires.

I have also seen an installer put the switch in the glove box so give that a shot as well.

First off, is it in neutral? It can't engage the starter motor if it's in gear. Secondly, If it was professionally installed, why not just take it back and demand that they fix it?

Your wiring should somewhat match this.

Well if your alarm doesn't work and your car doesn't start is because it has have installed what is call killswitch.You have to disconnect your alarm and attach togeter your wire that it runs to your killswitch.

is it a remote door unlock system with horn conformation? If so when does it happen? During locking or unlocking? the system may have a short that continues to supply power to the horn when it should be a short pulse

u have to program the alarm again

If the alarm was installed properly, it shouldn't have a connection to the engine light.

Sounds like you have it in a timed start mode. Are you remote starting your car with the lock and unlock buttons? I have also seen viper remote starts crank the car when the battery level is low, if it is in voltage mode instead of tach mode. Once the voltage gets so low it will crank the car and allow it to charge the battery.

you may have hurt the alternator when jumping check that

Try here for text and video help https://www.google.com/search?q=How+to+set+10+minutes+running+on+Viper+remote+starter+476+V ..