20 Most Recent Canon AV1 35mm SLR CAMERA SPARES OR REPAIR 35mm Film Camera Questions & Answers

You have not provided enough information. So, first thing are the batteries fresh? What shutter speed ar you using, perhaps Bulb? It is possible to camera needs a clean lube adjust, CLA.

Very much so!

It's a very common problem with older cameras and is an irreversible breakdown of the foam which was used to provide light-proof seals on the camera back and also to cover the pentaprism and provide a mirror buffer. (The pentaprism and mirror buffer are part of the viewfinder system).

The first problem is that when the foam turns to goo it allows light to leak into the camera and spoil the film, but that's the least of it. Where it gets serious is that the goo spreads inside and can gum up delicate moving parts; worst of all the goo is somewhat corrosive and can damage the coatings on the pentaprism leaving permanent residual ghosting images in the viewfinder.

The good news is that it's a well understood problem and every professional camera repairer can remove the goo and restore the camera as part of the regular service that all SLR's should periodically undergo. The foam will be replaced by modern materials which do not degrade. Some repairers also replace the mirror buffer, others will just remove the old foam and omit the buffer, but I always insist on a new buffer. At the same time, the repairer will give the camera a thorough CLA service (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust) which for a camera in non-professional use will often see it through a few more years, but I'd recommend getting a CLA done annually if you're well off and every couple of years if funds are tighter. The CLA will also ensure that the light metering is correct and on cameras using the older 5.4v mercury oxide (PX28) batteries can include a meter recalibration to allow use of modern 6.2v silver oxide (4SR44) equivalents as the mercury cells are no longer available. (Some folks use 6v manganese dioxide [PX28A] batteries, but they start off at a voltage slightly higher than 6v and constantly drift down with use to below 5v, so metering is nneither consistent nor accurate). A regular CLA with foam removal costs a bit more than a regular CLA but is a once only expenditure. Some repairers charge for recalibrating the meter for 6.2v, but most won't if you politely explain that you can always take the camera elsewhere.

DIY kits are also available and some are very good indeed, but they can be fiddly and messy to fit and none of them address the more serious issue of the pentaprism. In practice, repairers will remove the old foam from the pentaprism but almost never fit a replacement. It's not strictly necessary and the reluctance to fit a replacement stems from the risk of further damage to the pentaprism by the adhesive. The outside of the pentaprism is normally painted black from new, but foam goo usually attacks the paint and partially removes it. it also attacks and removes any optical multicoatings on the prism. When this has occurred there is no fix: the problem will not worsen once the foam has been removed but there will be residual damage visible in the viewfinder as ghostly dull patches, but this is something which can be tolerated and will not affect image quality.

If you want a cheap quick fix, then use a q-tip (UK= cotton bud), a wooden cocktail stick/toothpick and some alcohol to remove all visible traces of gooey foam. Omit the mirror buffer altogether and take your chances with the prism foam. To replace the rear light seal just use a length of woollen yarn: you'll find that if you twist it slightly it will reduce in diameter and allow you to press it into the slot where the foam was using a toothpick. Usually you can get away without gluing it, but if any glue must be used then use a few very sparing dots of something easily removed such as Copydex or the rubber cement sold for repairing bicycle inner tubes. At the hinge end of the camera back will be a thicker, wider bit of foam. Just use a few dabs of glue or to secure a good thick double or even triple width of yarn. The fix isn't a professional one, but it's good enough and was how the seals were made before rubber foam was invented. It also buys you the time to decide whether you like using the AV-1 enough to invest in a professional CLA with the additional options.

I hope that my reply has given you a few options and will enable you to get your camera into working condition again. All I ask is that you return the favour by taking a moment to rate my answer.

Basically, yes. The function of this foam is to both prevent mirror slap and reduce vibration, as well as to protect the mirror. The foam is easy, and cheap to replace, mirrors are not. Spend the $5 for the foam and not the $100 for a broken mirror.

Canon AE-1 will not work without a battery,so if your battery is low then most likely that is your problem.Battery compartment is located on the front of the camera.Replace the battery with a brand new one,used batteries even though they will read the right voltage(6 volts)will not have enough amperage to allow proper cycling of all moving parts.Buy a good quality battery like eveready,duracell,etc.hope this helps.

The mechanism won't re-engage until you open the door (camera back) and shut it again, then wind on and fire a few shots as if starting a new film. You could open and shut the door in total darkness, and then waste a few shots to carry on with the film in the camera, but the frame counter will be wrong. Unless there is a lot of film left on the cassette, you might as well just rewind it and start again with a new film. Yes, you will probably be paying more than you should for the processing and printing of a partial film, but you will get your pics.

Believe it or not, i just put a new battery in it and BINGO, back to life again....cheers G.

If you can not wind and release the shutter, the film release button will not come up.
If you can not trip the shutter, by replacing the mirror release magnet at the bottom will usually fix the problem.

Filters fit lenses, not cameras. Some lenses take large filters, others take small filters. Many lenses have the filter size inscribed on them near the front, followed by something that looks like a Greek phi (a circle with a line through it). Alternatively, since the size is the diameter, you can always measure the lens with a ruler to see how big the diameter of the filter mount is.

There's not anything you can do on a DIY basis, it happens to most of them (and the closely related AE-1). But you might be able to get it working temporarily by sitting the camera on top of a dry towel on top of a radiator or after placing it in a warm airing cupboard for 24 hours; this may soften up gummed lubricants enough to allow the parts to move as intended. If it works, this just leaves the camera in a better state to be assessed for a proper repair, it's not a true fix and will go wrong again.

The camera usually just needs a good CLA (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust) service by a professional camera repairer. This should include checking and adjusting the light meter calibration at the same time. Afterwards it should ideally be serviced every year or two, but will probably last another thirty or so years!

In the UK expect to pay at least £60 and about another £15 to £20 if you need the one-off repair of having all the gooey foam light seals/mirror buffers replaced. You can try haggling the price, but as there is far more demand than supply I doubt that you'll find the job much cheaper. If it is, corners ARE being cut: I've seen some cameras supposedly "fresh" from a CLA which have simply been cleaned, polished and had a little bit of WD40 or 3-in1 oil sprayed inside. Almost invariably these were done by less reputable folks on auction websites for around £40.

I use a number of repairers worldwide, but if you're in the UK then I highly recommend Colchester Camera Repair Service.

It's fair to advise that the repair will cost more than the camera is currently worth, but you can't buy a fully working and freshly serviced SLR for less than the repair cost, so it's definitely a worthwhile investment.

Good luck, you have an excellent camera with a great supply of excellent and relatively cheap lenses which can easily outmatch the photographic quality of current digital SLR's if used correctly.

I hope that you've found my posting to be of use, all that I ask in return is that you return the favour by taking a moment to rate my answer.

Almost nothing, even if perfect. I've got three of them all for nothing from FreeCycle.

It's a cut-price, aperture priority only version of the AE-1 program and so is not even popular with collectors unless absolutely mint and with all original accessories.

At most, the body only is worth about £10 on a good day, and absolutely nothing if the batteries are flat as the camera cannot then be shown to be in working order and the battery pack costs around £6. Any lenses with the camera will be worth more, but it all depends upon what they are. Canon FD lenses will not fit the later AF Canons though (except for the obsolete T-Series), so are not as popular as they could be.

OK, Tony, that sounds really strange, LOL.

There should be no orange plastic in there. I considered the AV-1 myself years ago, but was already invested in Minolta gear.

Without pictures, it's really hard to say. I kinda feel like something that should never be there, got put into the mirror box/ shutter area. It got broken off when the camera fell down. It would cost too much to repair, so it was sold for parts.

Look it over to see if the shutter was damaged. I 'd think so, but check it. Can you remove the plastic without damaging the camera further?

The A-1, AE-1, AV-1 were very similar and very successful models for Canon and another "Spares" of that series should be easy to find. You most likely will need to get the shutter from another junker and have a shop cobble together one that works. You might ask the repair guy if he wants to keep the extra parts. You may get a discount on repair. Otherwise hang on to those spares yourself.

Tony,
We do not stockpile any parts for anything here.
This really is a collection of people who have knowledge about many things and can answer questions, solve problems you can't figure out, and just maybe, point you to some places where you might be able to find an item.
I sit in my home, answering as many questions as I can with my knowledge, but that's all I can do. I have my own cameras that I use, but no collection of parts for sale.
I am going to suggest Ebay as a low cost parts source. You might also ring up some camera repair shops in your area and ask about the part. I would also suggest Yahoo groups. Look up and join some Canon manual focus yahoo groups and forums then post a query. Don't hesitate to join an EOS group. Many who own the AF models still have some MF cameras on hand, or remember where/what.
Sorry I could not be more helpful.
I will look at your other question, Tony.

I have found using a pair of pliers has worked

poke in where the opener goes and try to catch the edge of the opener lever and pull up

Richard

cheek the rewind butn on botam

for this modal there is a lock on botam of ground glass ask the shop keepar to cheek that ,or cleen the dust at megnt.

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Answer to your question is, ‘Yes’ we can. Use Sigma FD lenses.

As we know Canon AV-1 has electronically controlled AE (Automatic Exposure) & has a Canon Breech-lock lens mount.

Original generation of FD lenses featured a silver locking ring at the base. Only that locking ring turns to lock the lens to the camera body; the lens body remains still.

In the newer lens system which was introduced with this camera, the user has to line up the red dot on the lens, with the red dot on the camera and simply turned the whole lens clockwise until it clicked into place.

Note: FD-mount cameras could use FL lenses in stop-down metering mode.

Thank you & have a nice day.

Warm regards,
William