My guess is the ignitor. There is also a safety relay that cuts off gas when it wont ignite
Simple just check the back panel on the outside of the fridge to see if the propane is on or off..
Mite check the fuse too. Sometimes they are blown.. Good luck..
When trying to start the refrigerator on propane, you should hear a clicking noise trying to light the burner for the propane. There is a 12 volt cut off valve that controls the propane to create ignition.. see if there is 12V at the gas switch...also...crack the line to make sure you have gas there. You will smell it...just don't light any cigarettes...while teasting? GOOD LUCK. More then likely the board if not working. YOU can buy them on ebay and amazon....so don't go to the dealer and get ripped.
SOURCE: refrigerator on rv keeps going out
You probably have a dirty pilot safety. Clean the pilot with rustbuster.
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
SOURCE: refrigerator on rv keeps going out
Two reasons, first would be that the burner is dirty and needs cleaning. Second is that the thermocouple is either faulty or incorrectly installed. By this I mean that it might be slightly too far away from the flame to be able to conduct sufficient heat to keep the thermocouple open. This can happen when you park or drive and the rv is at different angles. So the flame does not heat the thermocouple enough and it shuts off the supply.
SOURCE: RV refrigerator works fine on AC power. Burns for 30 seconds on gas power then shuts off.
tap on the gas valve with a wrench,not too hard but not too light about 10 times,the valve is probably sticky from not being used,re-light and see what happens.
SOURCE: Oven gas will not flow with pilot lit
There
are basically two types of ranges to deal with:
those with
sealed top burners, which are pretty much the standard today,
and the conventional, 'non-sealed' ones.
While
they operate in much the same way, their conversion is
usually different. There are still a few ranges that use adjustable
sealed burner orifices, but most are 'fixed' and must
be individually replaced to convert each burner from one
fuel to another.
(An orifice is simply a small brass fitting with a specifically sized
hole very accurately drilled through it, and, if adjustable, has
a provision to change the size of this hole by turning closed
a threaded portion).
Either
way, basically what you're doing when going from natural
gas to LP is changing to a smaller orifice to allow for the
higher pressure supplied by the 'bottled' gas (The available energy
in each ft of gas is different too, but for our purpose here
that's not important). Natural gas supplies typically run around
a pressure of 5.5 inches water column, while LP runs at
twice that pressure, averaging around 11 inches.
The orifice through
which the gas travels to the burner must be smaller to accommodate
this difference.
Adjustable
orifices are simply 'snugged' down, clockwise, with a
1/2 inch open-end wrench, to convert them. Nearly all oven burners
use these too - more about that in a minute.
Fixed
orifices are replaced, and the good news is: the LP parts are
usually included with the new range. On some brands (GE being
one), the unused set is
attached to a storage point on the stove,
and this is a great idea. This way, they can't get lost, and if
you ever want to convert
back, there they are!
The
not-so-good news: these little top burner orifices very often require
a metric wrench to remove & install. And some can't be changed
without a very slender wrench or nut driver.
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c
SOURCE: Unit cools fine on 120V, selecting GAS CHECK light on.
Do you hear a clicking sound If not. there is a black box inside the out side door. Check the fuses in it.
Ken
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