Question about RVs
You may have trouble finding a manual but you can still check a few things. First thing to know is that most lights in campers/rv's operate on a 12VDC system and the outlets are on a 120VAC system. Both go through the shore connect box and power converter that goes to the fuse distribution panel. AC side will have breakers and the DC side will have small fuses.
First, check the input voltage for the AC and DC sides to make sure you have adequate voltage on each. Ensure you have the multimeter on the proper settings to get accurate readings.
The breakers that supply power to the outlet should go through a GFCI breaker that can easily be reset (look for the yellow tab); if it is tripped, just completely switch off to reset, then flip back to the on position. You can check to make sure there is AC voltage on the line out with your multimeter and plug something into the outlet to check as well.
Adjacent to the AC breakers will be the DC fuse panel block. Use your multimeter on the DC setting, the black lead touching a screw, frame or anything that is chassis grounded or the negative side of the power cable that supplies voltage to the DC block. The blade style fuses will have a small silver spot on each side of the fuse. Touch the red lead from the multimeter to each side of all the fuses. If you have your nominal 12VDC (11.5-13.8VDC} on both sides. If you have power on one side but not the other, the fuse is blown. If you do not have power on either side, you do not have input voltage from the power converter. Typically, most systems will not let the lights turn on if the DC voltage is too low (<10VDC).
Another thing to check is for a battery disconnect switch, usually a red handle in a forward storage compartment not far from where the battery or batteries are secured. Also, if you have no power at all on the DC side, check the power converter itself. It gets is power directly through one of the AC breakers and is fed to an outlet also located in the storage compartment directly by the converter. If you have no AC voltage going into the converter, the breaker may be off or tripped. If you do have AC power going in and no DC power coming out, check the fuse(s) at the output terminal block, replace if blown. If these detailed instructions do not help, document all the things you did check and take some pictures to reference and respond to let me know what you did or did not find so I can help walk you through the checks.
Posted on May 02, 2017
Your trailer has two electrical systems, 12v and 120v. The 12v system has a battery and perhaps a converter/charger to power it. The 120v system must he hooked up to 'shore power.' Both systems have their own protection. The 12v system has a fuse panel, check for power at each fuse. 12v wall switches are often smaller and don't look like typical 120v switches like in a house.
The 120v system has a breaker box and circuit breakers. Reset each breaker by turning off then on again. In addition, the 120v outlets might have a GCFI outlet near a sink. It often is wired first in a breaker circuit, thus giving GCFI protection to other outlets in the circuit. Test the GCFI and make sure it clicks off and can be reset.
Posted on May 02, 2017
7way- black is 12volt (power), brown, running lights, yellow is left turn signal and stop light, green is right turn signal and stop light, white is ground, blue is brakes, and orange is aux power (can be back up lights, if trailer equipped w/ them). 6way is the same, minus orange wire. I have run into some variations to the above color codes (brown, yellow and green only-sometimes these 3 are different than stated, but only mixed as that group, as to what they control- example would be green is running lights, brown and yellow are turn signal and stop lights, the others should be as stated), if you have any trouble with things not working properly, it may be due to these variations, although the above are pretty standard. If you have an ohm meter you can check as you go (check for power at black wire- should be constant 12v, turn on turn signal and check for power-it will fluctuate from approx. 12 volts to 0 volts as the signal power pulses in the wire) hit the brakes, blue wire should show power, etc. Let me know if you need more help as you go.
Posted on Apr 11, 2009
You'll need to disconnect the wires from either the truck connector or the trailer connector...
I highly suggest purchasing a voltage checker- it looks like a screwdriver with a pigtail of wire with an alligator clip on the end. The tip of the 'screwdriver' has a point for probing. The light in the probe will light up...makes it easy to trouble shoot without a helper behind the trailer.
Hook the aligator clip to a good positive grounding point on the bumper or frame(not painted).
then pin by pin on the truck connection, stick the probe on each terminal tab.. and write a simple diagram where you find brake, tail, backup, etc...
Then i'd suggest, taking the connector off of your trailer, exposing the wire ends.
Run again thru your diagram and turn on each light of the truck. As you do, touch the wires from the trailer to that specific terminal. (make sure your ground wire is attached on the trailer) you can mark each wire with a piece of tape and label it which is which.
then simply attach your trailer wires according to your diagram to the terminals in the connector... that should get you in business..
hope that makes sense...
That way if the factory wiring harness remains the same, you'll be able to use it with other trailers if the need arises..
Posted on May 28, 2009
i have a 1996 chevy 1500 bought a brake controler but what wire do i put the blue wire to ther are 4 white wires from brake peddle that go on when peddle is pressed on.
Posted on Nov 09, 2009
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