I have no lights, only carbon monoxide dectector and water pump work with battery power. With AC power, no outlets or lights. Any help would be appreciated.

First, I'm not a Coachmen RV Tech. (but most DC to AC inverters are not brand specific.)
* Check inverter fuse (on actual inverter frame). Replace.
* Check DC voltage at inverter. Should be 12 (or 24 VDC) depending on your system battery supply and inverter.
* Check the DC cable connections; crusty, dirty? Cut all power. Remove and clean terminals. Re-connect and check.
* DC okay? Check 110 VAC power at output of inverter. No power? Replace inverter. (possible power spike damaged it or it over heated)
* 110 VAC okay? Check the power panel breakers. If stuck in middle then turn all the way off to reset and turn all the way back on to activate. Check AC power at outlet(s)
* Still no power (at outlet)? Check all outlets. If some still works then there is a problem with the power (wires) distribution. You will need an electrician to trace the wires back to the break in circuit.
* Be safe. check your warranty and call for service.
* Note; your inverter may be on a separate warranty.
Aloha, ukeboy57

We dare not present with you at your location, so we can only guess, but here are some thoughts.
1) You may have a bad battery. Have it checked.
2) You may have a current draw, like for some item that uses electricity all the time.
For example, an electric clock, a TV set, a burglar alarm, a smoke/carbon-monoxide alarm.
3) You may choose to install a manual "shut -off" switch in your system that will shut off all electricity when you are not using the RV.
God bless your efforts.

I go with the converter solution IF you have controls set properly. I have use a 12V trickle charger (relatively inexpensive) to verify and supplement a weak inverter. Since you said your hook to AC you have power for the trickle charger.

AC may be the 3rd belt. 1 belt may be water pump & power steering, the other belt may be water pump & alternator. Water pump usually has 2 belts for redundancy , that is if one belt breake , the other belt will still turn the water pump. All 3 belts must go on the bottom pulley (crankshaft)

Your trailer has two electrical systems, 12v and 120v. The 12v system has a battery and perhaps a converter/charger to power it. The 120v system must he hooked up to 'shore power.' Both systems have their own protection. The 12v system has a fuse panel, check for power at each fuse. 12v wall switches are often smaller and don't look like typical 120v switches like in a house.

The 120v system has a breaker box and circuit breakers. Reset each breaker by turning off then on again. In addition, the 120v outlets might have a GCFI outlet near a sink. It often is wired first in a breaker circuit, thus giving GCFI protection to other outlets in the circuit. Test the GCFI and make sure it clicks off and can be reset.

Your question is a little hard to decipher!
By "110 outlets" I assume you mean 110V AC Power Points.
By "read hot" I would guess that you mean an Active or Hot AC Voltage where it shouldn't be and not Red Hot.

If that is the case then you need to have an electrician test the power point outlets before someone gets an electric shock.
If you are unsure of whats what then a diagram aint going to help!

Sorry.... But Safety First
Dealing with electrical problems at these voltages can be lethal.

Now.... if you have an ohm meter you can check the wiring with the power off and yes.... a diagram would be helpful.... even for the electrician

Cheers
....Jack

Your Wick is Carboned Up ! Change Wick - This Can Cause Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

There is a good chance that the detector is being set off by fumes. This could be from hairspray, cleaning solutions, air fresheners, etc... Most aerosols use propane as a propellant and this will absolutely (and should) set the alarm off.

there is a sort some were and it will need to be rectified before it over heats or catches fire.check wiring without the battery on with a meter. turn every thing off and test lines then turn one thing on test then turn on something else keep doing this on all electrical equipment till you find the unit at fault.

Your AC (air conditioner) would only run on AC (alternating current - shore power) so there would be a circuit breaker. Fuses are for DC (direct current - batteries).

That said, 16A is a very odd number for a circuit breaker (or fuse).

Your AC will only run if you are connected to shore power or have a generator. (Very large inverter and a lot of house batteries is technically possible but very unlikely and it wouldn't have been built that way).

If your AC actually draws 16A then being connected to a 30A outlet is fine, I have actually connected mine to a 20A outlet at home to test it but I made sure nothing else was turned on fridge, heaters, water heater etc).