How can I get ALL of the running lights working?

Some of the LED Awning Lights will not run up the arm, where they are interested into the side seam if the vinyl of the awning. I have seen after market work done where the wiring is cut into the edge seam and sealed up afterwards so you minimize and wiring being twisted up at the motor assembly or needing to have an open slip ring to get power to the lights, which can become corroded or need cleaning frequently. Start by having the awning open and looking for working coming out the the wall at the anchor rails. There will be one cable for the motor to extend and retract the awning, so don't get them confused. The wiring for the motor will be larger than the LED power wiring.

I agree with David, too center of the back is the best place for maximum visibility and splicing the power from the markers is ideal to keep from having to run additional wires. If space allows, mount the camera a couple inches below the center marker to avoid blocking the light. Some states will fail inspections if the light is not visible or not lit up. To prevent moisture leaks into the light, cut a small channel just big enough for the wiring to come out of the light if you have it on the exterior. Your best option would be to cut a small hole and run the wiring internally but make sure you seal everything up well with silicone caulking.

try replacing the thermocouple ,if that does not do it you will need a new gas valve

Contact your local retailer directly or online here:

The lights run off of 12V DC and use your RV's batteries to run when not plugged in. When plugged in it uses the AC and converts it to DC and runs the lights.

Please check your battery disconnect switch. It's most likely off. In my Winne there is a battery disconnect switch which disconnects the two batteries near the door. Lights wont work when unplugged and the switch is off. Lights works when plugged in or unplugged and switched on.

There has to be a break in the wiring

I would say that this unit works on the same principle as BOLT IN NUT. Your unit may have been over extended to the point where the bolt came out of the nut, and cocked to one side. Some possible damage inside occurred to allow this to happen. You would have to take apart, repair, and assemble to achieve proper operation. GOOD LUCK FRIEND.

all the wires run off the solenoids under the hood. one for the coach. one for the chassis. also chech all fuses under hood for the coach side. make sure have good contact.

No there is only one converter. You will need to check the output of the converter using a multi meter. Check the negative and positive terminal where the converter is connected to the fuse panel. It should be putting out approximately 13.6v. If it is not then the converter is bad and will need to be replaced. If it is, then you need to check your battery. Some trailers require a good battery for the system to properly function.