Broken plastic dome fan cover on roof

Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to RVs.

It shouldn't do unless the controlling software is faulty. There should be a diode that only lets electricity flow from the solar panel to the battery in sunlight, but shouldn't allow electricity to flow back to the solar panel at night.

Batteries should last 4 to 6 years if they are looked after, and during the winter months, they should be on a battery minder to keep them trickle charged.

Any electrical items in the trailer tent like fridges, microwaves, televisions, heaters, AC etc, may be drawing some power when not in use either by design (standby) or by error (parasitic draw).

Question edited for clarity - two/to
Question moved to RVs.

Videos tend to be generic, but the steps are the same on all RVs, remove water from anywhere that can freeze..

https://www.google.com/search?q=steps+to+winterize+Winnebago+26RK+Travel+Trailer

and de-winterize

https://www.google.com/search?q=steps+to+de-winterize+Winnebago+26RK+Travel+Trailer

..

It looks like the blade fuses are on the right side of the AC Panel Breaker Box

https://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f214/no-power-inside-2013-coachmen-clipper-17fq-90133.html

https://www.google.com/search?q=2014+coachmen+clipper+17bh+fuse+box+location

Roof cement tar is not the answer.
Determine the leak can be found... i.e. point of origin .. if not possible, then you need to reseal any existing caulk, areas, butyl rubber areas like roof fans... and check any seams where the roof transitionpoints to the walls.

Self leveling lap sealant would be my first choice... tar is just wrong....

There are little pull buttons and wing nuts on the inside of the track.If you need photos, let me know. Good luck with your travels.

Pull bottom plug out of hot water heater tank let all water drain. Then open all water tank drain valves and be sure your RV is tilted so it will drain towards the valve. Go in RV access water heater valves put it in bypass so no antifreeze can enter water heater tank. Pump RV antifreeze with hose provided into all water lines throughout RV by turning on your main water pump after you have stuck the bypass hose in a new and full antifreeze bottle, then flush toilet until red antifreeze comes out. Open all faucets one at a time until red antifreeze comes out. I use 3 gal but some only use one, the more the better it’s cheap at Walmart. Don’t forget to run outside shower until red antifreeze comes out also, very important or it will crack in the cold. Finally make sure black and grey tanks are empty and flushed at your last camp trip before winterizing. Pour antifreeze in toilet and all drains making sure first that black and grey tank shut off valves are pushed in and closed. Get a quality cover and store RV, it makes a huge difference on protecting roof and roofs lap sealant! All RV antifreeze is non toxic and you just drain it all at your first camp stop after winter! Note: don’t forget to put water heater ionizer drain plug back in wrapped with new white Teflon tape and take water heater valves out of bypass! Draw a diagram of regular mode and winter bypass mode so you don’t forget especially hot and cold water heater blender valve between the two MUST be shut off after you unwinterize
or you will cool your hot water unwanted and have no hot water to use! Happy Camping folks!

How could someone at Fixya be of assistance? Warranties typically do not convey. You should have purchased an extended warranty at time of purchase.
Try contacting the accessory manufacturer rather than the RV manufacturer.
Palomino Contact Us

Many times they have a clause built into the contract which the original purchaser signed and it only covers items for X number of years and only to the original purchaser. They know people trade out and upgrade RVs all the time. It is a poor way to do business in my opinion. The other option might be to find the serial number and contact the manufacturer of the fridge. Most give you a 3 year warranty on stuff like that.

Good luck.

Irv