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limited information generic answer unknown chassis chevy or ford this link will give chassis info when open click on radio wiring and look up chassis if rv system a rv dealer --rv shop --or rv forumn https://www.modifiedlife.com/
You don't say what type of RV you have, so my answer is generic. Most RVs have two battery systems, "house battery" for living amenities (fridge, interior lights, furnace, water pump, etc.) and a second "chassis battery" for driving functions (engine start, exterior lights, wipers, etc.) Ground connections are generally the same, the positive terminal is never cross-connected between the two battery systems except when a charging voltage is detected.
Clear GE Silicone adhesive is almost bullet proof for that but make sure the area you will apply it is clean and dry if possible. Clean your caulking gun after use as this stuff gets... well, just clean up well.
I go with the converter solution IF you have controls set properly. I have use a 12V trickle charger (relatively inexpensive) to verify and supplement a weak inverter. Since you said your hook to AC you have power for the trickle charger.
Speaking from over 15 years of RV experience (including 7 years of professionally delivering them from factories), truthfully, you should avoid the 12 volt function on an RV absorption type fridge. The dirty little secret RV dealers never tell you is the 12 volt function on a 3 way fridge, is not a useful option and more of sales feature. They draw a LOT of power so if you forget to switch to propane or shore power when arriving at the campsite, you will kill the house battery in no time. If you are stopped for any length of time and still hooked to the tow vehicle, you may also kill your tow vehicle battery too. And if your tow vehicle 12 volt power supply wire is not functioning properly, you will kill the house battery, while travelling. A much better solution is to pre-cool the fridge at home before departing, by connecting to the house power overnight. Put some freezer packs in the freezer compartment and they will keep the fridge cold. I know this does not answer your question, but trust me, this is the best route. Happy RVing!
Your AC (air conditioner) would only run on AC (alternating current - shore power) so there would be a circuit breaker. Fuses are for DC (direct current - batteries).
That said, 16A is a very odd number for a circuit breaker (or fuse).
Your AC will only run if you are connected to shore power or have a generator. (Very large inverter and a lot of house batteries is technically possible but very unlikely and it wouldn't have been built that way).
If your AC actually draws 16A then being connected to a 30A outlet is fine, I have actually connected mine to a 20A outlet at home to test it but I made sure nothing else was turned on fridge, heaters, water heater etc).
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