Yamaha YZF-R6 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. It appears to be a known issue. https://www.google.com/search?q=2003+Yamaha+R6+no+spark

it is not a car, so moved you to correct"? R6 forum.no full model told , year yes.nobody buys MC parts from amazon, and get wrong or worse used or even cloned junk from 12,000 miles away . pure junk.buy only top brands and new.wrote it mean road it? not road tested?yes there is a trick and that called skills and reading the service manual, and using legit parts, not CCP cloned junk. for sure used.is this a cable clutch or MC/slave hydraulic, actuated clutchno full motorcycle model name told R6 is not it sorry not. YZF-R6?the CLUTCH hub and disk/steels packs put in correctly and torqued to spec. the linkage installed correctly , it is not a trick but a skill set to know that, called experience or read he shop manual and not guess. is 2nd way. then the lever left bar actuator is adjusted.YZF-R6600cc class?with (anti de-accel compression braking for racing)and a multi-plate slipper clutchwith cable adjustmentsthe acid test (key off)put 6 speed box in 1st gear. by hand.Do not pull in the clutch lever, bike must not move. or rear wheel drags. then do pull it and bike moves.if moves clutch in or out, badif bike moves clutch in that 9s good. or not move at all, in gear lever pulled, bad clutch.that means bad clutch or bad cable adjustment or the linkageat engine clutch the actuators parts put in wrong.if test shows, bike does move, clutch out and lever not touchedthat means clutch pack bad or wrong.parts or missing disks.next.so remove clutch cable now, (bike most not move)and if wheel Rear is locked (good) pushed that means cable was adjusted wrong or bad linkages in clutch actual. best is RTM get the service manual and read it for this job.Or ask bike guy for help, a living person to show you this job.many owners or racers all DIY this.three things must work here.cable not bad or wrong. or rusty jammed.cable adjusted correctly at both ends.clutch links good inside clutch casing.clutch packs all good, no slip and no jam ups and no cloned parts ever. buy from Yamaha only if confused.on junk parts sold all over the planet.some old clutch packs the main clutch cagethe fingers there a wreck, we inspect all and if is , the clutch will be pure h3ll use, jamming up at random. no damage on machined surfaces, we look.

Don't bypass relays! They are there to save switches arcing and wires melting. $36 on eBay. https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+yamaha+r6+fuel+pump+relay Location is next to the battery. See the video https://www.google.com/search?q=yamaha+r6+fuel+pump+relay+location .. ..

If you are looking at the front of the bike it is located on the left side of the carbs closest to you on the top of the carb. Looking at you photo it would be top of the picture in the very middle. The cable runs in line with the carbs or parallel to be clearer.

Could be literally anything. I know the timing chain tensioner is very common to wear out on those motors and cause a winding/ ticking noise but thats on the right side. Ive replaced several on those myself over the years. You can try to tighten it manually the slightest bit. If the noise goes away replace the tensioner don’t continue to drive it like that.

DON'T .. . get a new one!! If you are wanting to check to see if its defective?, Take a short screwdriver and jump from the "hot wire" (red) terminal to the closet small (black wire) one...CAREFUL >> SPARKS WILL FLY!!! If it tries to start, the relay is defective,,

Check the battery.Is it charged?Also does the neutral light go on? If not check the neutral switch. The neutral switch is behind the engine case near the rear shock and has one wire. Make sure the bike is in neutral or on stands. Remove the one wire and put it to earth/chassis/ground (somewhere metal on the bike). The neutral light should come on and you should be able to start the bike if that was the problem.

did you replace it with a oem switch?There is on some bikes a anti theft device built into the key switch.If you replaced it with a after market switch thats your problem.There is a resister built in the oem switch .You would need to soldier in a 100 ohm resister to make the aftermarket switch work.My advice is to put in the oem key switch

possible corrosion in the indicator switch. not hard to remove, just tedious.

cam chain tensoner

How To Motorcycle Repair

fuel filter on an 06 Yamaha R6 R6 Forum See this link as the discussion suggests using a fuel injector cleaner in the gas instead.

Fuel filter? Trash in the tank? Other fuel delivery system devices. Ecu (computer) fuel injectors? DYIer get the repair manual from your parts supplier.

If you want to change it lift the tank up at the front,turn the fuel off at the tap under the tank follow the fuel pipe to the fuel filter near the fuel pump and pull the pipes off it and push them onto the new one ,turn tap back on and secure the tank.make sure you get the filter the right was around as its marked with an arrow for the fuel flow direction.

This is a very complicated system and problem that has been created. I would suggest that first you put EVERYTHING BACK TO ABSOLUTELY CORRECT STOCK CONNECTIONS. This will verify that all is working correctly or not. If not, diagnosis should proceed from there without any other devices wired into the bike. Unfortunately it is usually bad news when you tap into a incorrect wire of an ecu. It tends to kill them instantly and they are usually expensive. Dont take this to mean that your problem is the ecu BUT SOMEONE WITH MUCH KNOWLEDGE SHOULD DIAGNOSE THIS PROBLEM BEFORE YOU GO THROWING PARTS AT IT HOPING FOR A FIX.

sounds like the head gasket to me problem with all the r range of yamaha you have to drop the engine out to do anything really but before you do that run a compression check on all 4 cylinders if the compression is low on 1 or more cylinders it could be either your head warped (not so bad) or worst case a cracked liner (barrel) you can get the head gasket on ebay for around $40 but the main cost can depends on whether you have overheated the engine or not if it has overheated it can warp your head then the head has to be run to an engineering shop and have it skimmed if it is a cracked liner get a second hand engine but if you have not overheated the engine just replace the head gasket but personally i would still have the head checked out for cracks

Does it blow. lot of air out of the oil filler cap if you take it off while its ticking over ?.if so t will be a cracked liner it's very common and I had one like that a few weeks ago.The cylinder liners crack and the burning gases whizz past it into the crankcase and then it pumps the burnt gases up the engine breather hose not the author.bad design fault that usually happens between 20'000 and 30'000 miles.

It sounds like a sensor not working good and did you check all the connectors from the front to the back of the bike to make sure that is no debris in there plus get an ohm tester and test all you wiring if possible including coils sensor switch etc.

Look for a loose ground inside of your instrument cluster, Anon.

http://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?p=1874 free manual for you!