If you've already bled the hydraulic clutch system, and you're still experiencing difficulty pulling the lever with no apparent kinks or obstructions in the lines, there are a few other potential issues to consider:
Master Cylinder or Slave Cylinder Issues: Check the master cylinder and slave cylinder for any signs of leaks or damage. If either of these components is faulty, it can lead to a loss of hydraulic pressure. Replace or rebuild the faulty cylinder if needed.
Clutch Fluid Contamination: Ensure that the clutch fluid is clean and free from contaminants. Contaminated fluid can affect the performance of the hydraulic system. If the fluid is discolored or contains debris, consider flushing the entire system and refilling it with fresh clutch fluid.
Air in the System: Despite bleeding, there might still be air trapped in the system. Ensure that you've thoroughly bled the system, starting from the master cylinder and working your way down to the slave cylinder. Sometimes, it may take multiple bleeding sessions to completely remove all air bubbles.
Clutch Cable Adjustment (if applicable): If your motorcycle has a hydraulic clutch, cable adjustment may not be applicable. However, if it uses a cable-operated clutch, check for proper cable tension and adjust it according to the manufacturer's specifications.
Clutch Components Wear: Check the clutch components such as the clutch plates and springs for wear. Worn-out components may result in poor clutch engagement. If necessary, replace the clutch components.
If the issue persists after checking these aspects, it might be worthwhile to consult with a professional motorcycle mechanic. They can conduct a thorough inspection and diagnose the problem accurately. It's important to address clutch issues promptly to ensure safe and reliable operation of your motorcycle.
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Jul 8, 2012 - It runs rough and loses power, it is intermittent but happens regularly. When it runs rough the check engine light does come on. It goes off ...
1 answer · Top answer: Brian : Good day and welcome to Just Answer. My name is XXXXX XXXXX I'd be happy to help ...
A broken timing chain is the most likely cause, the piston is hitting an open valve, or you have a dropped valve or a stuck valve. Another possibility is something jamming behind behind the side covers.The key would be how you discovered this? Driving along at 105 and the engine stopped, or ???https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+suzuki+boulevard+timing+chain+or+timing+belt....
Install a new stock spark plug. Clean the air filter then remove and clean the carb. Drain the gas tank, clean out rust and any trash, and remove the fuel valve to clean the internal tank filters. Now install an in-line fuel filter in addition to the tank filter. What follows is just in case it will help out.
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There
is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist
in starting. Below are generic instructions.
The choke, used
when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
The " Hot
Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean
the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
The de-compression
lever, always used.
The throttle, used
to prime the cylinder, (power valve).
Don't
kick, instead, push
the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going
upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that
the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in
the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the
piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm,
(Power valve), in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT
do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the
throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often
backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start
lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid
any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the
case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even
break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the
throttle priming), for six kicks. After six kicks go ahead and twist the
throttle again for a second priming. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a
clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting. Note that not
all carbs have a power valve. When a power valve is not present you should crack
the throttle open only 1/8 inch from closed on each kick.
As of my last knowledge update in January 2022, I don't have specific information about the 2016 PagSta EFI 320cc twin, including its fuel flow rate/volume (Q1) and fuel pressure (Q2). The specifications for vehicles can vary, and it's important to refer to the manufacturer's documentation or contact PagSta directly for accurate and up-to-date information.
You can check the owner's manual, technical specifications provided by PagSta, or get in touch with their customer support or a certified PagSta dealer to obtain the precise details for your specific model and year.
The TSSM will not cause these symptoms. I would suggest you start from the beginning of the work you done. If the bike was operating correctly before the work was started, then for sure you have done something incorrectly. Check all fuses as is one of these is blown due to incorrect wiring, then the supply to the clock/tack could be compromised.
What follows is just in case it will help out.
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There
is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist
in starting. Below are generic instructions.
