Triumph Motorcycles - Page 6 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Make sure you have your stand up before you put it in gear. Some bikes have a stand switch that doesnt allow the bike to be in gear while the stand is down. This switch may have been damaged when the bike fell and now be malfunctioning.

It seems the wiring around the ignition switch could be the problem, its worth checking the connections over there!

Your description indicates a serious fuel starvation problem but a very weak spark could cause or aggravate the condition.

have you used a hot air gun or hair drier to remove decals

Fuses, ignition switch,bad wire

the left plug problem indicates where the fault is if you have duel carby , check for flooding in that carby

Valve gear generally does not produce load sensitive noises - because the load on these components do not vary in normal use. A load dependent noise is usually produced by a component that is subjected to varying loads - piston, piston rings, connecting rod bearings, etc. I suggest you treat yourself to a mechanics stethoscope or sonascope in order to more closely listen to your engine and attempt to pinpoint the source of the ticking noise.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/538488/Triumph-America.html https://www.manualslib.com/manual/538483/Triumph-America.html https://issuu.com/dtnyc/docs/triumph-new-york-america-lt

Don't quote me, but nowhere in the parts lists does it say they are stretch bolts or one use. If in doubt, buy a new set.

Bonneville / T100 :: EFI Performance Tune 3 - Triumph Twin ...

www.triumphtwinpower.com/bonnevillet100-performance-tune-3.php?... Rating: 5 - ‎44 votes I removed the O2 and AIS on my 2009 SE Bonnie. ... First thing I noticed was the smooth idle, next was the deeper exhaust note from my TEC 2:2 .... The power increase all over the band was very good , no popping or back fire at low rev's and

Go online and download the wiring PDF.

If its only happening when moving and your feeling vibrations in your feet. Check your chain is not to tight. You could also have worn chain and sprockets. If not that then check rear wheel bearings and rear brake pads for heavy ware.

It may require a service I.e. New plugs oil and Air filter. You may have contaminated fuel or throttle bodies may require a bit of adjusting. Could also be fuel in the sump if you've been riding it on 3/2 cylinders. Unburn fuel will enter the sump and mix with your oil thus creating an over rich fuel/Air mixture via the crank breaths through the Airfilter (Airbox).....

Sounds like you may have a battery issue. I would suggest fitting a New battery and see how you get on. I believe this bike is fuel injected so you will need a gooood power source to make it run wright as injectors are electrical and are controlled by the ECU. The blinking dash light may also be indication of poor battery.

hi check and adjust valve clearance

It may have fuel, but is it at the right pressure?

i think its black

I'd pass on this one. Maybe more than one issue, and I have seen broken transmission gears act like this.

Try tracing it back from the starter relay with an automotive test light or voltmeter. Put the ground terminal of the test light onto a good ground, either on the engine or battery negative terminal. Then put the other end onto the small wire ( signal wire )terminal of the relay, turn ignition on and activate clutch or side stand switches as required then press starter button. Try it with the wire connected and disconnected and it should light up the test light. If the test light does light up it means you have current to the relay and the problem is further on with either the relay itself or the starter. If the test light did not light up then you will have to trace it further back through the safety switches ( clutch or side stand ) and fuses and start button until you get to a live feed. It would be helpful to have a circuit diagram for your bike so that you can see where to go next on the diagnostic circuit. You should be able to get one online if you don't have the manual. Think about it logically and you will soon find the cause. Best of luck.

Is the battery good. You should have a voltmeter to put across the battery terminals and it should read at least 12.5 volts if it is fully charged and not been on a charger for a few hours. When you have the bike running you should see around 14 volts when revved up a bit, if you see no voltage increase over the 12.5 volts then it means that the alternator is not charging and you will have to investigate that.