Again... i need to change out bad pushrod rings, and i need step by step instruction because I AM IGNORANT on this...

unless adjustable pushrods have been installed you are in for major work and time. Sometimes you can turn the tubes back and forth a bit to reseat but if leaking bad, take it to a shop for repair.
There are emergency fixes using corks but not reccommended....
Take it to a pro

When you adjust the pushrods on any H-D Evolution or later engine, you must compress the tappet by 0.100". According to the list that I have, you must turn the pushrod three complete turns (18 flats) to lengthen it this much. I'd double check your pushrods to make sure this is correct. Find a point where you can measure the pushrod and take a measurement using a dial caliper. Turn the pushrod to extend it by three full turns and remeasure the pushrod. It should be 0.100" longer.

To install your pushrods, bring one piston to top dead center on the compression stroke. Make sure that both tappets on that cylinder are as low as they go in their bores. Install the pushrod with the pushrod tube into the head. Make sure you've got the O-rings in the head and the tappet block. Extend the pushrod by turning it with your fingers until it gets tight. Then, turn it three more turns using wrenches and lock the locknut. Do the same with the other pushrod. Let the engine sit and do not turn the engine until the tappets bleed down and you can again turn the pushrods with your fingers. This may take as long as ten minutes. Once you can turn the pushrods by hand. Bring the other cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke. Make sure that both tappets are at the low point in their bore. Install the other two pushrods the same as you did the first two and allow the engine to set until the tappets bleed down. Once you can spin the pushrods in your fingers. Finish installing the pushrod tubes.

Now, this is accurate provided your pushrods have a 32 threads per inch adjuster. If not, you must figure out how many "flats" that you have to turn the pushrod to lengthen it by 0.100". Substitute this number of flats in for the number of turns to lengthen the pushrod after you get it finger tight.

The tappet plunger has approx. 0.200" of travel in it. You want to adjust the pushrod so that the plunger in the tappet is about mid way in it's travel or 0.100" or there abouts.

Good Luck
Steve

I would do a compression test on all the cylinders, you may have a burnt valve, valvetrain problems, ie. bent pushrod, bad lifters or some bad piston rings. I would check the fuel filter also.

I'm assuming that you're talking about replacing the O-rings on the pushrod tubes. If so, you must remove the upper and middle rocker boxes from both cylinders. Then, you'll have to remove the rocker arms, one at the time, and replace the O-rings on the tubes. Do not mix the pushrods up. They are color coded and go in a specific location.

Good Luck
Steve

To begin with, I assume you already have the old pushrods out. If you plan on cutting the old ones out, cut them with a pair of bolt cutters, not a "zizz wheel". The metal shavings and wheel grit gets into the engine unless you are very careful.

Now, most S&S pushrods are threaded 32 threads per inch. So, Check yours and make sure they are threaded this way. Adjust the pushrod as short as it will go. Then turn the adjuster out three full turns and measure the disance it lengthens the pushrod. It should be right at 0.100 inch. If this is correct proceed.

Bring one piston to top dead center on the compression stroke. This will be when the piston it at top dead center but both of the tappets are down in their bores. Insert the pushrod in the tube and make sure you have all the various O-rings for the tube in the tappet block and the head. Insert the pushrod into position and using your fingers extend the adjuster until the pushrod is tight against the tappet, zero lash. Then, turn the adjuster out an additional three full turns, 18 flats. Lock the lock nut down and do the same thing with the other pushrod. Do not turn the engine over until the tappets bleed down and you can turn both pushrods with your fingers.

Once you can turn both pushrods with your fingers, do the same thing with the remaining cylinder. Theory is the hydraulic tappet has approximately 0.200" travel in it. You want to adjust the pushrod so that the plunger is about halfway in the travel of the tappet.

You can also get this information on S&S's site. Go to their site, click on Technical section, click on installation instructions. The have the installation instruction for all their products online.

Good luck
Steve

If the engine is stock, there is no adjustment to the valves. The engine is equipped with hydraulic tappets that take up for any wear or heat expansion of the cylinders. The pushrods are non-adjustable but are of different lengths. They are color-coded as to what position they go in.

Now, if your engine has been modified and adjustable pushrods installed, they should work the same way unless they are way out of adjustment. Then, it depends on "whose" pushrods they are as not all pushrods have the same threaded ends on them. But, all is not lost.

Take one of the pushrods out of the engine and adjust the pushrod as short as it will go. Now, turn the end out until it makes the pushrod exactly 0.100" longer while counting the "flats" on the adjuster. When you install the pushrod, make sure the tappet is at it's lowest point in the bore. Put the pushrod in, don't forget the tube and the new O-rings, and adjust the pushrod out until you have zero backlash. Then adjust it out the additional number of "flats" that it took to make it exactly 0.100" longer. Lock the adjuster down. What you're doing here is the plunger of the tappet has a travel of 0.200" total and you're adjusting the pushrod so that the plunger is halfway in the middle of its travel so that it's got equal travel in both the up and down direction.

Good Luck

Rebuilding the top end on your Ironhead is not really that difficult to do. You start by taking the tank off the frame, then the carb and intake manifold off. With those off, take the four bolts out of each head and remove the heads. With the heads off, take the four bolts out off of the studs to remove the cylinders from the engine cases. One word of caution. When you remove the cylinders, have the piston up high enough in the cylinder so that you can lift the cylinders and stuff shop towels or something into the case before completely removing the cylinder. This will keep bits of carbon, broken rings, or whatever from falling into the case.

Now, that you've got it torn down, no need in doing all this work and not refreshing the engine. I'd have the cylinders checked to see if they needed boring. If not, I'd still put a new set of rings in the engine. They don't cost that much. Have the machine shop break the glaze in your cylinders if you don't have a flexhone. If you have a lot of miles on the bike, a valve job would be in order as well. Clean all the old gaskets from everything. If you have a valve job done on the heads or you've got oil leaks at the rocker boxes, remove them and replace the gaskets. This is a good time to check the rocker arms and rocker arm bushings. Replace them if needed.

Once everything is ready, put the rocker boxes back on the heads. Use good gaskets and a good sealer. Put locktite on the bolts so that they don't come loose. Once you get the heads back on the engine, you probably won't be able to to get to the bolts. Install the base gasket on the cases. Put the new rings on the piston making sure you get the right ring in the right groove and you put them in with the right side up. Refer to the instructions that comes with the rings to determine which side of each ring should be installed in the up position. Oil the rings thoroughly and space the end gaps around the piston at 60° or so apart from each other, do not align the ring end gaps. Carefully slide the cylinder down over the piston and rings. Use your fingers to compress the rings so that the cylinder slides down over the rings easily. Do not use force or you may break a ring. Torque the cylinder base nuts to 35-40 foot pounds. Now, install the other cylinder using the same techniques.

Next comes the heads. Choose the head gasket you are going to use. They come in two thicknesses. I prefer the thicker gasket. It will cost you a bit of compression but they seal better. Spray each side of the copper gasket with CopperCoat spray adhesive and position the gasket so that the oil drain hole is properly aligned. Carefully set the head down on the cylinder without disturbing the head gasket. Install the four head bolts but only snug one of them down. Then install the other head the same way.

Now, the reason you only snugged one head bolt down was you must align the intake ports with the intake manifold. Hold the intake manifold in between the intake ports of the heads. Notice the gap at the intake ports. If it is wider or narrower at the front than it is at the back, you must "rotate" the heads until the gap is even. Once this is done, you can tighten the head bolts. Tighten them in a criss cross pattern to a torque of 60-70 foot pounds.

Now you can install and adjust your pushrods. Use new O-rings on the pushrod tubes. Bring the front piston to Top Dead Center. Use a common drinking straw in the spark plug hole to determine when the piston is at it's highest point. Do NOT use anything that is hard or that will break. You could damage the piston or break the tester off in the cylinder making you have to pull the head off again. With the piston at top center, adjust each pushrod longer until you can't turn it with you fingers, then back off until you can just turn it freely. Lock the locknut down tightly. It's better to leave the pushrod a bit loose than a too tight. Do the same with the other pushrod. Put the pushrod tube into it's proper position. Now, bring the rear piston to top center and install the pushrods and tubes on that cylinder. It makes no difference which pushrod goes in what position as they are all the same length on the Sportster.

Now you can install the carb. Use new "rubber bands" on the intake clamps. Make sure you position the intake so that the carb is level. Position the clamps and "rubber bands" so that you won't have any vacuum leaks and tighten them down. Once the carb is installed on the intake, check the throttle for proper operation. You don't want to start your bike only to find out that the throttle is wide open. Install the fuel tank and you should be ready to go.

Good Luck
Steve

As long as they are adjustable it's not too bad. Remember to change pushrods one at a time. First you have to pull the upper chrome covers off. These have a little (kind of) handle. They are halfed, but they look one piece. Pull down & out. 1: Once chrome covers are off, turn motor slightly until the valve your working on is closed & lifter is on lowest part of base circle on cam at BTC. in other words, while turning motor slightly in BOTH directions, lifter should be all the way down, and stay down. this assures that your not on or near the up ramp of the cam lobe. 2: Then you can remove pushrod by loosening lash adjustment (on bottom) until pushrod comes out. 3: Put new pushrod through partial chrome tube exactly as removed from old pushrod. 4: Set valve lash or pre-load, and then, one at a time, repeat procedure from step 1.

Go to this link. In the search window in the center of the screen, type "drpd setup" and click on the Search button. Select the option "How do I set up DRPD". You should see step by step instructions to set it up.