now my bike will go into gear but the clutch just spins when throttle appliednow my bike will go into gear but the clutch just spins when throttle applied
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if it stuck from being stood that's due to corrosion on the clutch plates the steel plates rust and stick to the friction plates,two ways to do it
1st is to start the bike get someone to give you a good push then put in in 1st gear,hold the clutch in and open and close the throttle quite quickly ,hold on as it will jerk about a bit and possibly wheelie.that should do it if it doesn't
2nd,Take the clutch cover off and undo the clutch bolts that hold the pressure plate on and manually separate the plates ,clean them up with some fine wet and dry sandpaper and re assemble it..
Be carefull to avoid friction reducing oils or any kind, this bike was built well before synthentics so don't think you "must" use the full synthentic oils. Mobile 1 15-50 is an excellent oil, replace the filter while performing maintenance on the plates, you will need 3 quarts of oil. To change the friction plates watch the video some guy made on you tube.
Next time you lay the bike up, try and prop it upright. When it is leaning over the oil sits to one side, and as far as I can tell the clutch is sat in oil if left for too long in this position. Clutch friction plates are absorbent but it take a while to soak in. If you can find a way to remove the lubricant from the friction plates you may save the clutch. But you will have to dismantle the clutch anyway, so it is just as easy to replace the friction plates.
The bike has led a hard life. This takes a toll on the clutch friction plates. Just install a new set of fiber friction plates and all should be well. When installing the plates also check the springs. You may want to install new springs as well.
Get the service manual, or the parts diagram from yamaha. Drain oil remove pressure plate bolts four to six w/ springs under them. Lay the plates out exactly the way they came out. Watch for inside friction plate/ some bikes this plate is diff. or has an anti-rattle spring (pay att.) Check metal plates for overheating/bluing, if not warped can be bead blasted to remove color/burnt friction plate material If O.K> then replace friction plates and new springs and go
Here's the deal. You get the diagram and I get a top rating on my answer. :)
Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx
Note that the first plate to go on is a fiber friction plate and the last plate is also a friction plate. A metal pressure plate goes inbetween each friction plate.
Lose the Honda transmission oil. It may have swollen the cork on the friction plates. Go with 10w40 in the gearbox. Any major brand; Mobil, Shell, Quaker State, Pennzoil, etc.. Try the new oil and give the cork a week to shrink back down > if they will. You may need to put in a new set of plates.
You are saying that with the clutch lever pulled in the bike still wants to go forward. Generally that is caused by dirty, gritty oil in the gearbox. Go ahead and change the oil. 10w40 motor oil is what you want. I think that will fix the problem assuming the clutch plates were installed properly. The first plate installed and the last plate installed should be a fiber friction plate, 8 plates total. A metal pressure plate goes between each fiber plate, 7 plates total.
Be sure the lever assembly arm is installed so that it gets full movement of the clutch cable. If the full range of movement is not present then full disengagement of the clutch is not going to happen.
cape cod bob did you a good service in the manual referral. Be sure to say thanks.
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