Internal schematic of 71640-99 ignition switch? Is the copper contacts that set on top of three small springs on each side supposed to be separated in middle or does this mean it's broke?

It must be the return spring for the switch. Look for hooks. There is no parts schematics for these. Contact Shark Support

For any other servicing, call
Customer Support at 1-800-798-7398
or visit www.sharkclean.com

https://www.google.com/search?q=shark+sv1106_n+parts+schematic+diagram

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Hello Gene Skates - Typically error code E11 indications that there is an issue with the drain valve, possibly the main control board is timing out before receiving status of drain valve. This is typically not a DIY job and strongly recommend contacting a professional to check the wiring between the main control board and drain valve since you have already replaced the drain valve.

Hello Jason Johnson - Typically error code E11 indications that there is an issue with the drain valve, possibly the main control board is timing out before receiving status of drain valve. I strongly recommend contacting a professional to check the wiring between the main control board and drain valve.

Hello - Typically error code E11 indications that there is an issue with the drain valve, possibly the main control board is timing out before receiving status of drain valve. I strongly recommend contacting the technician that repaired your unit previously to check the wiring between the main control board and drain valve. Some certified technicians warranty their labor and part for 30 days.

The contacts in your solenoid are probably worn out. From the right side of your bike, look at the end of the starter. There is a five sided plate held on with three small 3mm bolts. This is the end of the solenoid. Remove the bolts and the plate. Behind the plate, you'll find the plunger and a spring. pull the plunger out and look inside the solenoid. Inside, you'll see two large copper contacts. Odds are at least one of the contacts has a "step" burned into it that should not be there, The contacts should be smooth all the way across. If not, you can buy a kit to replace the contacts with. You probably won't have to remove the starter.

Good Luck
Steve

Look at the end of your starter from the right side of your bike. You'll see the solenoid end plate, a five sided plate with three screws holding it on. At the top of this plate, there is a single wire connector. Unplug the wire and insert a test light or the positive probe of a volt meter into the wire connector, ground the other leads. Turn on the ignition switch and press the start button. If the light lights up or you show battery voltage, the starter is the problem, If the light does not light up or you fail to get battery voltage to the wire, you have a bad starter relay. The relay is located under the triangular plate on the left side of the bike if I'm not mistaken.

To check the solenoid contacts, remove the three small screws. Inside the solenoid there is a plunger and a spring. To test the starter, MAKE SURE THE BIKE'S TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL and using a large screwdriver, push the plunger all the way inwards. The starter should engage and turn the engine regardless of the position of the ignition switch. If the starter engages and turns the engine, the starter is serviceable. Now, remove the plunger and spring. Look at the large copper contacts inside the solenoid housing. If they are badly burned, you can purchase a kit and replace these contacts. It's not a difficult job, simply disconnect the battery and take the cables off one at a time and replace the contacts making sure you get the insulators on the bolts properly.

Good Luck
Steve

Ok, it depends on what type of "click" you're hearing. If it's a low level soft click, you could be hearing the starter relay. If it's a loud click, you're probably hearing the starter solenoid. Since I can't hear the click, I'll just go through a few checks to see if I can help you.

First off, make sure you've got a good battery. I'd take it out of the bike and take it to an automotive parts store. Ask them to load test the battery. They'll charge the battery and then put a load on it to check for internal shorts. If the battery test good, put it back in the bike and make sure all the connections are clean and tight. Try the starter again.

If all you hear is the click, let's find out which is clicking the relay or the solenoid. Look at the end of the starter from the right side of your bike. You'll see a prominent five sided plate that is held on with three small bolts. At the top of this plate is a single wire connection. Unplug this connection. Take a test light or a volt meter and connect it to the connector on the end of the wire. Turn the ignition switch on and press the start button. If the light lights up or the meter shows battery voltage, your starter relay is good. If you see nothing, your relay is bad and you need to replace it. Sorry I can't tell you exactly where to look because Harley moves these relays around all the time. It's either under the seat or behind one of the side covers. It looks like any other standard automotive relay, a one inch plastic cube type thing.

If the light lit up or the meter showed voltage, the relay is doing it's job and the problem is in the starter. Hopefully, it's in the starter solenoid. Back to the five sided plate. Take the three small bolts out using a 3mm allen wrench. Behind the plate is a plunger. Now, make SURE the transmission is in neutral. Using a large screwdriver, push the plunger into the solenoid as deep as you can. The starter should engage and turn the engine over whether the ignition switch is on or off. If so, the starter is good and all you need to do is replace the large copper contacts that you see inside the solenoid once you pull the plunger and spring out. Disconnect the battery and replace the copper contacts. It's a simple job, just take the nut off the studs and work the contacts out. Replace the stud and insulators and reposition the contacts making sure they are square with the new plunger that comes with the kit. You can get the parts from Harley or as a kit from an aftermarket supplier.

Good Luck
Steve

Look at the end of your starter from the right hand side of your bike. You'll see a plate that is shaped kind of like a pentagon, five sided. It's held on by three small screws. Disconnect the battery and remove the screws and take the plate off. Under the plate, there will be a plunger and a spring. Take these out. You'll see two large copper contacts inside the solenoid. There is also a large copper washer around the plunger. When you push the start button, the starter relay closes and sends current to the solenoid. That current pulls the plunger inward and the large copper washer is supposed to make contact with the two large copper contacts on either side of the solenoid transferring high current voltage to the starter motor. Now, Look at the copper contacts and see if the large washer has burned a place in either or both of the side contacts. If so, you need to replace the contacts You can get everything you need as a kit from aftermarket sources or you can buy the parts individually from Harley.

Also look to see if the two contacts are "flat' against the coil in the back of the solenoid. If someone has tried to tighten the nuts of the starter cables, sometimes the contacts will rotate with the nut. When this happens. the large washer contacts the "twisted" contact but cannot contact the other one. They both must be "flat" against the coil.

To test the setup, reconnect the battery and reinstall the plunger. Make sure your bike is in neutral with the ignition switch off. Use a big screwdriver and push the plunger straight inwards until it stops. The engine should turn over. If not, you've got other starter problems.


Hope this helps.
Good Luck
Steve

Either the starter relay or the starter solenoid is bad. To determine which, you need a voltmeter or a test light, something to indicate voltage is present.

Look at the end of the starter from the right side of the bike. There is a plate shaped roughly like a pentagon held on by three small screws. At the top of this plate is a single wire plugged into the starter. Unplug this wire. Connect your voltmeter or a test light. Turn on the ignition switch. If the voltmeter or light shows that you DO have voltage there, the problem is probably the starter relay. If it shows that there is NO voltage there, the problem is in the starter solenoid.

The starter relay is a one inch cube shaped device usually made of black plastic. The location of the relay varies depending on year and model of the bike. Usually they're either under the seat or on the front side of the rear fender down low behind the transmission on that removable plate.

If you think there is something wrong with the starter solenoid, remove the pentagon shaped plate. Behind it you will find a plunger and a spring. The plunger and spring should just come right out if you pull on it. You will see the two large copper contacts on either side of the solenoid housing. There should be nothing shorting the two contacts together. A problem in this area usually cause the starter to NOT work instead of causing it work when you don't want it to.

Good Luck
Steve

If this is the same problem that the Microsoft IntelliMouse Explorer 3.0 is susceptible to, it can be fixed! It is a hardware issue that is caused by corrosion on the metal contacts inside the buttons. The corrosion prevents electrical signals from passing between a copper plate and terminals above and below it. You can carefully scrape the contact points with a knife to expose the clean copper.

Follow these instructions at your own risk.

To get into the mouse, peel off the pads on the bottom and unscrew the screws, then carefully pry the shell apart. Do I need to say disconnect your mouse from your computer? Attached to the circuit board inside the mouse, you will see a couple of black boxes.

Look closely at one of the boxes and see that there is a cap with ears that clip onto the bottom half. Wedge a blade into one of the seams between the ears and the bottom half and it should pop up a little. The dull side of the blade should be touching the circuit board. Be careful to not bend the ear. Pop the other ear up and the top of the box should come away.

Study the internals of the black box. At rest, the copper plate is held in place by three contact points: at one end by a pivot point; in the middle by the end of a flex-spring; and at the other end by the upper terminal. When the mouse button is clicked, the copper plate is pressed at its center until the spring gives way and the plate pops down to the lower terminal. This is called a "mousedown" event. When it pops back up to the upper terminal, this is known as a "mouseup" event. In quick succession, mousedown + mouseup = click. If the plate or one of the terminals is corroded, the mouse can become confused, and single-clicks get registered as double-clicks.

Warning: the plate is tricky to put back in! To remove the plate, pivot it to one side, away from the terminals. Be careful to maintain control of the plate. It is tiny and springy, so it likes to fly away. Unless you have very small hands, you need to use tweezers to handle the plate.

Check the contact points on the top and bottom of the plate for corrosion. You can use isopropyl alcohol and a toothpick to rub the corrosion away. Be careful to not bend the plate. If the toothpick and alcohol are not enough to expose the copper, scratch gently and evenly with the tip of a knife blade.

Do the same with the upper and lower terminal.

Now is the time for the most frustrating part. Due to its tiny size and being spring-loaded, the plate can be extremely frustrating to reposition. In my experience, it seems that the easiest way to put the plate back in place the terminal end under the top terminal, then position the spring in the middle (there is groove where the spring is supposed to rest), then use tweezers to pull the opposite end against the force of the spring and seat that end in its groove. Meanwhile, I hold a finger against the top of the plate so it does not fly away if the tweezers slip.

When the plate is successfully positioned, press on the middle of the plate to make sure it clicks up and down the way it is supposed to. Clip the cap back on the black box. You may have to turn the mouse upside-down to do this so the white piece does not fall out. Screw the shell back together and stick the pads back on.

Now, if you didn't break anything, you just saved $30.