How do i remove the front sprocket on my 91 softail custom?

To remove a Softail drive belt FIRST remove the rear wheel then remove the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster as an assembly, then remove the primary chaincase housing, place a support under the rear fork and engine, remove the pivot shaft and spacer, slip the drive belt off from the transmission sprocket.



To replace a Softail drive belt FIRST not that all belts, used or new, must never be formed into a loop smaller than 5.0 in. (130 mm), and must never be bent backwards because this can severely weaken the belt and cause premature failure if it, then install the belt over the transmission sprocket, install the pivot shaft and spacer, remove the support holding the engine and rear fork, install the primary chaincase housing, the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster and the primary chaincase cover, fill primary the primary chaincase with oil, install the rear wheel, align the rear wheel and properly adjust the belt tension to the specified deflection.

Is it a softail????



To remove a Softail drive belt FIRST remove the rear wheel then remove the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster as an assembly, then remove the primary chaincase housing, place a support under the rear fork and engine, remove the pivot shaft and spacer, slip the drive belt off from the transmission sprocket.



To replace a Softail drive belt FIRST not that all belts, used or new, must never be formed into a loop smaller than 5.0 in. (130 mm), and must never be bent backwards because this can severely weaken the belt and cause premature failure if it, then install the belt over the transmission sprocket, install the pivot shaft and spacer, remove the support holding the engine and rear fork, install the primary chaincase housing, the primary chain, the clutch, the engine compensating sprocket, and the chain adjuster and the primary chaincase cover, fill primary the primary chaincase with oil, install the rear wheel, align the rear wheel and properly adjust the belt tension to the specified deflection.

If switch requires replacement, the rear muffler and rear
exhaust pipe must be removed to remove the transmission
sprocket cover. The drive belt and transmission sprocket must
also be removed; there is not enough clearance to allow the
removal of the switch without first removing the transmission
sprocket.

I'm afraid that there is nothing simple about a transmission on your bike. The only thing that I can think of that would cause that is a loose front belt drive pulley. If this is the case, you must remove the entire primary drive from your Softail. This involves removing the engine sprocket, clutch, and starter. Then you'll need some special tools to remove and reinstall the front pulley. Check the final drive belt for a stone stuck on the inside of it between the "teeth" of the belt.

Good Luck
Steve

The nearest thing I have is a schematic for a 91-93 Softail and 1994 Wide Glide. Contact me directly at [email protected]

Steve

Timing Chain and Gears REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2.2L Engine Fig. 1: The timing marks on the sprockets should be in alignment. If not, turn the crankshaft until the marks are aligned
Fig. 2: The timing chain tensioner is retained by a Torx head bolt (1) and a regular hex head bolt (2)
Fig. 3: Unfasten the camshaft sprocket bolt
Fig. 4: Remove the camshaft sprocket and the timing chain at the same time . . .
Fig. 5: . . . then remove the tensioner assembly
Fig. 6: Compress the tensioner spring and insert a cotter pin or nail in the hole provided to hold the tensioner in position

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the front cover as previously detailed.
3. Place the No. 1 piston at TDC of the compression stroke so that the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets are in alignment (see illustration).
4. Loosen the timing chain tensioner nut as far as possible without actually removing it.
5. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolts and remove the sprocket and chain together. If the sprocket does not slide from the camshaft easily, a light blow with a soft mallet at the lower edge of the sprocket will dislodge it.
6. Using a suitable gear puller, remove the crankshaft sprocket. To install:
   
7. Press the crankshaft sprocket back onto the crankshaft.
8. Install the timing chain over the camshaft sprocket and then around the crankshaft sprocket. Make sure that the marks on the two sprockets are in alignment (see illustration). Lubricate the thrust surface with Molykote® or its equivalent.
9. Align the dowel in the camshaft with the dowel hole in the sprocket and then install the sprocket onto the camshaft. Use the mounting bolts to draw the sprocket onto the camshaft and then tighten to 66-68 ft. lbs. (91-95 Nm).
10. Lubricate the timing chain with clean engine oil. Tighten the chain tensioner.
11. Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of removal. Fig. 7: Exploded view of the timing chain and sprockets - 2.2L OHV engine
    

Timing Chain and Gears REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2.2L Engine Fig. 1: The timing marks on the sprockets should be in alignment. If not, turn the crankshaft until the marks are aligned
Fig. 2: The timing chain tensioner is retained by a Torx head bolt (1) and a regular hex head bolt (2)
Fig. 3: Unfasten the camshaft sprocket bolt
Fig. 4: Remove the camshaft sprocket and the timing chain at the same time . . .
Fig. 5: . . . then remove the tensioner assembly
Fig. 6: Compress the tensioner spring and insert a cotter pin or nail in the hole provided to hold the tensioner in position

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the front cover as previously detailed.
3. Place the No. 1 piston at TDC of the compression stroke so that the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets are in alignment (see illustration).
4. Loosen the timing chain tensioner nut as far as possible without actually removing it.
5. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolts and remove the sprocket and chain together. If the sprocket does not slide from the camshaft easily, a light blow with a soft mallet at the lower edge of the sprocket will dislodge it.
6. Using a suitable gear puller, remove the crankshaft sprocket. To install:
   
7. Press the crankshaft sprocket back onto the crankshaft.
8. Install the timing chain over the camshaft sprocket and then around the crankshaft sprocket. Make sure that the marks on the two sprockets are in alignment (see illustration). Lubricate the thrust surface with Molykote® or its equivalent.
9. Align the dowel in the camshaft with the dowel hole in the sprocket and then install the sprocket onto the camshaft. Use the mounting bolts to draw the sprocket onto the camshaft and then tighten to 66-68 ft. lbs. (91-95 Nm).
10. Lubricate the timing chain with clean engine oil. Tighten the chain tensioner.
11. Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of removal. Fig. 7: Exploded view of the timing chain and sprockets - 2.2L OHV engine
    

This will be quite an involved process, just to let you know. If you have a motorcycle lift or can borrow one it makes things so much easier.
The first thing to do is drain all the oil out of your primary. Next remove the bolts from the primary, noting which ones went where as there are short and long bolts. Next under neath the primary is the adjustment for the chain tensioner. Loosen the jam nut, then unscrew the adjuster. Remove the primary cover gently, you may have to tap on it with a rubber hammer to get it loose. While removing be careful not to pull the 2 pins out of the inner primary, the are for alignment. Now you need to remove all the gasket material from the primary and the inner primary. Remove the retaining clip off you clutch hub. This is the one right where your clutch adjustment is. Once removed just pull your adjuster nut and adjuster threaded shaft out. Okay here is the fun part, in order to remove the chain you must remove both the front sproket and the rear clutch basket, etc. But before you can do this you must lock the chain from moving, Harley makes a tool for this or if you are very careful and I do mean very careful, you can take a large screwdriver and wrap it in an old T-shirt, place the wrapped screwdriver between the chain and top of the clutch sprocket. You must always lock the top of the chain NEVER the bottom. Okay the nut on your clutch assembly is reverse threaded, so while the chain is locked you turn the nut clockwise to loosen. Once lossened go to the front sprocket and repeat process, this nut is standard thread, and on tightly. Loosen this nut, then go to your chain tensioner and loosen the nut holding it on, and lower it as far as possible. remove both the nuts from the front sprocket and clutch. On the front sproket there are some items you just pull off the shaft and leave the sprocket. Note the order of removing. Okay now pull both the front sprocket and the clutch off at the same time avoiding the chain tensioner.
Now this is just advice not a must do. Inspect your sprockets for wear, if they need replacing by all means replace them...yes they are expensive...so are tow trucks! Also on some 1999-2000 models the OEM chain tension could and would fail, this doesn't make for a bad day, but a REALLY bad week! My point for about a $100 you can replace the OEM tension with the Harley auto adjusting one.
Now you are ready to replace the chain and put the sprockets back on. You should use the red loctite(sp?) on both nuts, your front nut should be tighten to 150-165 ft./lbs and the rear 50-65 ft./lbs check that number for the rear before you put it back together I may be incorrect. Once you have those tightened up put your chain tension back in the proper position. Now would be a good time to make the adjustment. Place you clutch retaining plate and adjuster, then put the retain clip back in, adjust clutch. Replace gasket for primary, install primary, remove inspection plate, put oil in, bolt plate back on.
Start it up, check for leaks, all cool, get some time in the wind.
Hope this helps,

JP

Remove the outer primary cover on left side. Don't forget to drain the oil first. Using a large pair of snap ring pliers, remove the clutch adjuster plate from center of clutch assembly. Remove compensator sprocket nut (very tight) and the clutch hub nut (left handed threads) and remove nut from bolt on primary chain adjuster. Grab the compensator sprocket and clutch assembly and lift out of inner primary.

Are u asking for the torque sequence for the outer primary cover ?