Gsxr idles high 94 750 - 1994 Suzuki GSX-R 750 WR

If it's 54 outside and the fan is not running because the cold air is passing through the radiator and the coolant is doing it's job. Then you come up on a red light and basically all of the sudden that 54 degree wind chill has somewhat stopped (because 54 degrees outside and going 50 mile per hour creates quite a wind chill) the engine will heat up, cause the thermostat to open allowing the fluid to flow through the system. Now the fan kicks in at 220 degrees and begins to cool everything back down or you start riding and the wind cools it back down again...........I hope this helps a little. My bike heats up quickly too especially after riding for awhile and then stopping at a red light. I flush my coolant system yearly before the winter. It's generally recommended every 2 years.Ref: https://www.gixxer.com/forums/80-06-07-gsx-r600-750/294175-rapid-heating-idle.html

make sure the throttle cable is free moving and not sticking or slow to return. it could be a vacuum leak. you can check for a leak by spraying water around any intake seals in the carb area or brake fluid, if the idle changes then you found the area of the leak.

You may have a seized or sticking throttle cable turn handle bars see if revs change.

Around 2000 was the first year for fuel injection for the GSXR 750. It really isn't a 'choke' in the true sense of the word. It's a device that causes a high idle similar to an 'enrichener circuit' to warm up the bike engine. There should be no damage to the engine by leaving it on for a short ride so I'm thinking there was an unlerlying issue with the bike that the previous owner left undisclosed.

Around 2003 that device was abandoned due to the advancement of technology in fuel injection and was no longer needed.

After typing this response I just noticed the original post date was in 2012 and I'm sure the bike has been either repaired, sold or crashed by now but maybe this answer will be helpful to someone else.....

Throttle cable maybe the culprit if carbies are 100% good. Check length of cable for kinks, squashing or undue wear on shroud. Does throttle grip snap back at all steering angles. Ball end of cable in twist grip maybe binding in the grip housing, cable often bunches at cable end from severe bending to get it in or out of slot.
Double-check the starting plunger is not loose, and throttle adjuster rotates freely for all carbs.
Check again (I know, it's a hassle) needle jets are all rising and dropping smoothly and in unison. A needle out of sync (on wrong notch) will effect idle speeds.
Tip: If engine revs high and you load engine (in first, slow clutch release, no throttle) and bike stalls, your problem is confined to one carby. If it's got some grunt (won't stall) you have issues with all of them...generally.
Cheers.

If you have the stock computer replace the power commander with the stock computer then see if the problem still remains. If it goes you can be sure the problem lies within your commander and it will need to be remapped or replaced...Good luck

the idle adjustment on the oil cooled motor is in between carb 2 and 3. you have to take the right side fairing off to do so

sounds like you need to have your carbs balanced, also check the vacume pipe for perishing.