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Honda CT110 starts ok, idles ok, pulls away fine but loses power when you open the throttle, only does half the speed in each gear then backs off, struggles up hills...
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Try removing the idle speed motor on side of throttle body, and spray it clean, as well as the port it came out of, with throttle body spray cleaner. Don't pull and extend shaft of idle motor, just leave it in position it's in, and make sure you don't lose small "O" ring on idle motor. Re-install and try it. If it cures it for a while, then starts to do it again, replace the idle speed motor.
Ok I have r Royobi Tiller (30CC Gas) And last year it ran fine after rebuilding the Carb. This year it was "hard starts" Idles fine, (Tiny whisps of blue smoke in exhaust with correct ratio) Even seems to run better with the choke "on" but still...at idle only. as soon as I touch the throttle...its bogs down in tune with how much gas I give it. Little throttle? Little bog down, Little more throttle? Almost stalls, a normal throttle rev? it stalls dead! Then starts right back up again in 1 pull and idles fine again!? WTF? So after cleaning a clean carb again, (twice) and seeing no change I thought I'd go look at the original diaphragm and compare it with the rebuild kit diaphragm (which is the one in the carb.) And guess what? The replacement has a larger rivet by a factor of "2". So basically it was flooding the carb, I bent the needle tang down, better but no cigar. But I could rev it half way now. A second disassemble to bend it yet a bit further and Vrooom vroom vrooom ****! So check your needle valve even though you think its 100%. (Especially if you rebuilt the carb with a kit!)
Try depressing slightly the gas pedal to see if the engine continues to run when you put it in gear. Might have to depredd gas pedal and brake simultaniusly. if the engine continues to run, then the problem is in the idle circuit. Try decarboning the throttle body and the idle speed control.
On most bikes, opening the pilot needle screw actually leans the mixture , as it is an air screw, not a fuel screw. I'm not for sure that this is the case in your bike, but if you can find out exactly what carb it has, I can tell you. Also, a freshly rebuilt engine is going to idle erraticaly until the rings are seated and broken in. Be sure to check your carb boots and vaccum lines for cracks and leaks, as a vaccum leak can cause a lean condition.
The problem is an air leak leaning the fuel mix. The idle speed starts going up a ramp until it is wide open. The valves no longer seating well is a possible cause as is carb manifold gaskets, rings and a cylinder head not torqued down tight.
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