I had to loosen the front shock to remove the front fender. ( New paint job). I unscrewed the top cap and released the spring. Now the threads are down in the tube to far to reach. How do I get them back up and depress the spring and spacer so I can install the cap? The wheel is back on for now and the shaft lines up.

Put the bike on a stand supporting the bottom of the frame. Remove the seat and sidepanels. Loosen the clamp on the carb to airbox boot at the rear of the carb. Loosen the muffler clamp, remove muffler mounting bolts and pull muffler. Remove the 4 rear subframe bolts. Remove the rear subframe (leave airbox and rear fender assembled in it). You are now staring at a completely exposed rear shock. Remove the shock mount bolts and remove the shock. Measure the spring adjusted length for a future starting point when the spring is put back on. Loosen both spring pre-load adjuster spanner nuts all the way. Helps if you clean the dirt off the threads and use a little lube. Pull the spring towards the spanner nuts and remove the clip ring at the opposite end spring holder. that's it.
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1 PUT ON YOUR EMERGENCY BREAK, LOOSEN THE WHEEL NUTS ON THE FRONT WHEELS,JACK UP THE CAR AND REMOVE THE FRONT WHEEL. WITH SOME YELLOW PAINT ,MARK THE THREADS WHERE IT SCREWS INTO THE TIE ROD END SO YOU KNOW HOW FAR TO SCREW THE NEW ON ONTO. TAKE OUT THE COTTER PIN AND REMOVE THE CASTLE NUT FROM THE ROD. USE A PRY BAR TO SEPERATE THE BOLT FROM THE TIE ROD END. ONCE SEPARATED YOU SHOULD BE ABLE UNSCREW THE OLD TIE ROD END OFF THE SHAFT..TAKE THE NEW ONE AND SCREW IT BACK ON ONLY TO THE YELLOW PAINT MARK THAT YOU MADE ON THE ROD EARLIER. THEN JUST REASSEMBLE THE SAME WAY YOU TOOK IT APART. MAKE SURE YOU TORQUE THE NUT TO 50 LBS.AND BE SURE TO USE A NEW COTTER PIN ON THE CASTLE NUT..

You need prop the bike up on front and rear stands. The fron stand needs to be the type that holds the bike up by the headtube. Remove brake calipers, front wheel, fender. Then loosen the upper and lower triple clamps. Loosen the clip ons. But before loosening the lower triple, loosen the fork tube top caps.

Drop out the legs. take off the top caps, pour out the oild, and compress the spring. I'd use a fork compressor, race tech makes a nice one. Loosen the top cap from the damping rod. Remove the top cap then pump out the rest of the oil from the damper.

Next, remove the outer dust seal. Remove circlip. Then you need to just extend the fork several times quickly to "bang" out the oil seal and bushings.

The outer bushings, if they look good, need to be gently pryed off using a thin flat head screw driver in the **** of the bushing. Same with the inner bushing. Now the oil seal, metal washer and circlip all come out together. Remember the order.

Lube up the new seals with fresh oil. put back on the fork lowers in the same order they were taken off. Replace bushings at the same time if there's any brass showing. I usually do it any way since the seals seem to go at the same rate as the bushings for me.

Once back together, seat the seals. There's a tool for this, but I usually **** the old oil seal so I can get it on the lower fork tube between the new oil seal and new dust seal. and I quickly compress (bang) the fork a few times until the groove on the upper leg is showing so the circlip will lock back on. Probably not recommended but I haven't ruined a dust seal in about 20 years now.

Fill fork with proper oil viscosity and volume (don't remember how much or weight for zx7s). cycle the damper about 20 times to make sure they're full of oil too. insert spring, re-compress, lock on top cap to damping rod. screw on top cap. reassemble fork on bike. Remember to torque the top cap with the top triple clamp loose otherwise the caps can bind.

The front spark plugs should not be a problem. The rear are accessed with use of an "engine tilter". It can be purchased at many auto parts businesses, I purchased mine from NAPA. However, you may have to order one on-line as it is "an unknown item" as many of us are unaware that it even exists and I am sure that the mechanics and techs want to keep it that way. My cost in 2009 was in the $35 to $80 range for the tilter. It may sound a little scarry using it because you loosen the upper (literally right up on top where they are most easily accessed) mounts, but it is easy. I found that no electrical, air flow from filter, exhaust, etc., had to be loosened or removed. You only remove one side and install the tilter. Next you adjust the "tilter" to remove tension on the other bolt. Finally, simply screw the adjuster toward the front of car until you either have enough room to access the rear plugs or until you run out of bolt threads at which point you have as much room to do the job as any tech/mechanic. As usual, remove the old plugs (I only do one at a time which also eliminates crossing plug wires) and screw the new ones in several turns by hand to make sure that there is no cross threading. Once you are satisfied with your level of maintenance, simply adjust the "tilter" back to a point where the loose motor mount accepts the bolt to front frame, tighten it, remove the "tilter" and reinstall the second bolt. It really is that easy, but you will want to protect your paint with a proper cover as you do have to lean heavily against the fender or fenders. Oh, by the way, many mechanics skip the difficult-to-access plugs, knowing that when they, or it fails, you will be back. Enjoy, you will feel like a real pro, knowing that your job was done correctly and is complete!!!

the main tools your going to need are ball joint splitter, spring compressor to compress the suspensions spring without compressing this you would do injury to anyone around you if you undone the cap holding the spring on the shock absorber as its under loads of tension so you need to compress the spring enough so it loose and moves around on the shock then you can undo the big center nut holding the cap on top of the spring, you will also need a socket set and spanners, its not a big job and quite easy to do but without ball joint splitter and spring compressor its just not possible to do.

Basically the shock inserts in the struts are what hold the spring in place, and the axle knuckle to the fender.

On a very few cars, they were slick enough to design it so that you don't have to do very much.
On these exceptions, you just remove a plate from the top of the strut, in the engine compartment, and pull the insert up after unscrewing a cap.

But on most cars, you have to first drop the top of the strut down from the fender, then undo the pinch bolts at the bottom, in order to remove the whole strut from the car. Then you put a large spring compressor on it to remove the tension. (this is dangerous) You can rent or buy inexpensive spring compressors, because some are just a pair of threaded rods with hooks on both ends. Then you take the top plate off the strut by removing the nut threaded onto the insert shaft. Then there is a cap on the end of the strut tube, that allows the insert to be removed. The tube may be filled with oil. By accident if leaking, or be design with some cars, for cooling. Then you slip the new intsert in, cap it down, put the compressed spring back on, tighten up the top plate with the nut threaded on the shaft, uncompress the spring, and then place the strut back on the lower knucke, and finally back in the fender.

The difference between the fronts and rear is that the front may have an excentric bolt on the bottom, so that you can adjust the camber. If so, mark it before losening, so that you can put it back at the same angle of rotation. A chisel mark will do. The rear usually does not have alignment.

Put the bike on a stand supporting the bottom of the frame. Remove the seat and sidepanels. Loosen the clamp on the carb to airbox boot at the rear of the carb. Loosen the muffler clamp, remove muffler mounting bolts and pull muffler. Remove the 4 rear subframe bolts. Remove the rear subframe (leave airbox and rear fender assembled in it). You are now staring at a completely exposed rear shock. Remove the shock mount bolts and remove the shock. Measure the spring adjusted length for a future starting point when the spring is put back on. Loosen both spring pre-load adjuster spanner nuts all the way. Helps if you clean the dirt off the threads and use a little lube. Pull the spring towards the spanner nuts and remove the clip ring at the opposite end spring holder. that's it.

First of all you'll need to get the bike up and secured. I dont have a bike jack, but after putting it up on the center stand and jacking it up under the pipes, I was able to put my two carstands under the crash bar to secure it.

1) Remove the front wheel, calipers, speedo cable, and fender.

If you want, drain the oil using the drain plug, but I just let mine pour out the top, and you wont have to worry about stripping the thread or damaging the seal.


2) You'll need to remove the caps from the top of the tube to expose the cap bolts. Loosen the cap bolts before you remove the tubes from the bike (I used a 10mm bolt and two jam nuts on the other end so that the head of the bolt fits into the hex, then you can use a ratchet on the jam nuts to loosen).

3) Loosen the pinch bolts (upper and lower). Make sure you hold onto the fork when loosening the final bolt so it doesnt hit the floor. Put your homemade hex tool back into the cap bolt and with the tube upside down and your foot on a ratchet to hold it, start turning the tube to remove the cap bolt. BE CAREFUL! The spring is behind the cap bolt, so you have to put downward pressure on the tube as you turn so that it doesnt go flying up when it's free. I put my fork in a small tub then the ratchet that I stood on, so when it came free, the nasty oil stays captured in the pan. It's probably easier to do this still on the bike, but I was a bit afraid of the spring pressure, which really turned out to not be that bad.

4) Remove the dust seal by tapping with a screwdriver very lightly. Use a screwdriver to remove the circlip from the tube.

5) Place the spring, spacer, and cap bolt to the side for cleaning. Now you'll have to get the dampener out. You can use a 13/16 spark plug socket that has the hex on one end. I took an old spark plug and put in it, then I had one of those "no foul" spark plug extenders to screw onto the plug so that I had a hex on that end too. Put a layer of elect tape on it to hold it all together and prevent scratching the tube. With a couple of long extensions you can get it down the tube and hold the dampener. Then you can unscrew the retainer bolt (8mm hex) at the bottom of the tube).

Backup method (if you cant get it to hold, take a cheap broomstick handle about 7/8" diameter and saw it off about 30" long and hammer the rounded end into the dampener and that will allow you to hold the stick with a vice and unscrew the bolt (I started off with this method and it did work! But once you get it out and can see it, you can improvise your own tool)

6) You can now remove the dampener, inner tube, seals, and spring from the outer tube. Wash all the parts in a cleaning solution. Use a scotchbrite pad to thoroughly polish the seal surfaces. Check all parts before re-assembly. Be sure to get ALL the dirt and grime from deep down in the bottom of the lower tube.

7) Re-assembly. Make sure you put the little aluminum taper spindle into the end of the inner tube before inserting back into the outer tube. Best to do upside down and slide the outer tube downward so it doesnt fall out (the big end of the spindle faces down!)

Once the tubes have completely came together, the spindle is trapped, and you can now turn rightside up. Put the washer on, then grease the inner tube and slide the new oil seal down. The smooth side goes up! Slide on another washer, then you can seat this with about a 30" piece of 1 1/2" PVC pipe that is cut squarely on one end. Tap gently with a rubber mallet till the washer is below the circlip groove. Install new circlip.

9) Install new dust seal. Use a 2" piece of PVC pipe this time to drive the dust seal down.

10) Place dampener and spring inside tube. Use your improvised tool to place the dampener back all the way down to the bottom of the tube. You'll need to clean and loc-tite the retaining bolt to screw in from the bottom. If the screw doesn't reach the threads, you put something together wrong. Stand on the allen wrench on the floor and torque the dampener to the manual's specification.

11) Put the tube back in the bike. Torque pinch bolts. Pour 13 ounces of new fork oil into the tube. Work the lower (outer tube) up and down slowly a few times to work the air out). Slide spring down into tube (tightly wound end of spring goes up!) Dont forget the little spring seat that sits on top of the spring. Place spacer into hole next.

12) Use your homemade hex tool and some downward force to get the cap bolt back screwed into the tube. Torque per the book, of course.

13) Replace caps onto cap bolts, Front wheel, calipers, speedo cable, fender, etc.

1. Slightly loosen hub center nut when all four wheels are on ground.
2. Raise and support vehicle, then remove five wheel bolts and wheel.
3. Remove hub center nut, then the wheel sensor,
4. Press back brake piston using slip-joint pliers,
   
5. Remove caliper from steering swivel member, then suspend in wheel housing with cable tie.
6. Remove brake disc and back plate, then slightly loosen tie rod end nut.
7. Press out tie rod end nut using puller tool or equivalent.
8. Remove nut and tie rod end bolt, then the anti-roll bar to swinging arm nut.
9. Remove outer ball joint nut.
10. Press ball joint out of steering swivel member using puller tool or equivalent, installed on spring link.
11. Remove nut and discard. This self-locking nut must not be reused.
12. Remove three upper mounting nuts for MacPherson strut, then the strut.
13. Clamp MacPherson strut in vice.
14. Compress spring using spring compressor or equivalents.
15. Hold piston rod and remove nut using MacPherson strut socket tool 89 96 662, or equivalent. This is a self-locking nut and must not be reused.
16. Remove mounting and top spring seat, then the coil spring, gaiter and compression stop.
17. Unscrew damper using wrench tool No. 89 96 670, or equivalent, then remove damper from strut.
18. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:

1. Screw damper in place using wrench tool No. 89 96 670, or equivalent.
2. Lower end of coil spring should abut against stop in bottom of spring cup.
3. Position MacPherson strut on vehicle and install three retaining nuts on top mounting. Tighten nuts alternately, according to specifications.
4. Always use new hub center nut with self-locking threads.

Remove the top cover by removing the 2 screws in the back.
Remove the dispenser drawer completely.  
Remove the 2 screws on front of the panel where the dispenser drawer was removed.  
Remove the screw on the right side behind the front panel.  
Disconnect the wire harness behind the panel.  
Starting on the dispenser side with your finger, pry forward the top of the control panel until it unsnaps.  Continue this all the way to the right and remove the control panel.  
Go to the bottom filter door and remove the door.  Unscrew the one screw below the filter cap.  Remove the plastic insert covering around the filter cap.  
Locate a small screw at the very bottom of the frame just below the filter cap and remove.  Sometimes there may be 2 but usually there is only one.
Open the door and locate the spring clamp usually located at the bottom of the door seal.  Remove the spring clamp.  This will loosen the front of the door gasket for removal from the frame.  
On the right of the door gasket is the door latch assembly.  Unscrew the 2 screws and set the latch hanging by the wire harness.
Remove the 4 or 5 top screws holding the front panel assembly.  Once they are removed, the front panel will lift up and out.
NOTE!!!  THIS JOB REQUIRES 2 SPECIAL TOOLS FROM LG TO REMOVE THE SPRING CLAMPS ESPECIALLY THE REAR CLAMP.  THE SPRINGS ARE SET VERY TIGHT SO IT IS NOT EASY TO REASSEMBLY WITHOUT THE SPECIAL TOOLS.