2001 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat Boy rear brake caliper anti-rattle clip location @

Did the original pads have anti rattle springs attached to them? If they did, you should have transferred them onto the new pads. The rattling isn't dangerous by any means, but it can be annoying.

You must be talking about the anti-rattle spring. I do not know how to explain to you how this spring goes back on. Go to this site and it will show you the spring but you'll still have to figure out how it goes on. You may have to look at another Softail to see how it goes on. The brakes will work without the spring on there but the pads may rattle.
http://www.bikebandit.com/1993-harley-davidson-flstf/o/m1215#sch147081

Good Luck
Steve

You don't if you can get the bike off the ground high enough to allow the wheel to come straight down. But, I'd just take the caliper off. It only has two bolts holding it on.

Good Luck
Steve

Remove any saddlebags or whatever that might hinder access to the rear caliper. Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper onto the caliper bracket and lift the caliper off the bracket carefully. Place it aside so that the hose in not crimped or the caliper hanging by the hose.

Now, look at the pads and anti-rattle hardware and see how it's all placed in the bracket. Remove old parts and install new ones exactly like the old stuff came out.

Then you need to get the piston pressed back into the caliper. I use either a large C-clamp or a large pair of slip joint pliers to press the piston all the way down in the caliper. Use some rags or pieces of wood to protect the finish and the paint on the caliper.

Carefully place the caliper back on it's bracket without disturbing the pads or the other parts. Put the two screws back in and torque them to 25 foot pounds. Slowly press the rear brake pedal until you get a full firm brake pedal. Check the level of the brake fluid in the rear master cylinder reservior.

Test the brakes before riding the motorcycle. Failure to insure proper brakes can lead to serious injury or death.

Good Luck
Steve

The rear brake system consist of a rear brake master cylinder, a metal line that has a tee in it for the rear brake switch, a rubber brake hose and a rear caliper.

I'm not sure what you are wanting to know. The rear brake caliper is held into the rear caliper bracket by two bolts. Remove the bolts and the rear caliper will lift off of the caliper bracket. With the brake caliper off the bracket, notice the position of the pads and especially the stainless steel anti-rattle clips. When you replace the pads and clips, make sure you get them in correctly.

Now, you'll have to compress the piston back into the caliper. To do this use either a large pair of slip joint pliers or a large C-clamp. Use a rag or something to protect the paint on your caliper. Carefully slid the caliper back down over the pads while not disturbing them. Install the two bolts and torque them to 25 foot pounds.

You brake systems, both the front and the rear, take type DOT 5 brake fluid as best as I can remember. Harley has changed the type of brake fluid but I cannot keep up with the year model. It should tell you on the tops of the master cylinder.

Extreme care must be taken whenever working on brakes. Make sure they work properly. Failure to test the brakes for proper operation prior to riding the bike can result in sever injury or death.

Replacing the pads on your Fat Boy is not difficult but you need to pay close attention to the way things are put together as you take it apart. Particularly the little steel pad retainers and the anti-rattle spring. These parts are made and go together in such a way that it's very hard to describe how they go in.

To remove the pads, take the two caliper retaining bolts out of the disc brake caliper. These are usually Torx head bolts. Once you get the bolts out, the caliper simply slides to the front and off of the pads. You'll need a way to push the piston back into the caliper so it will go down onto the new pads. I usually do this with a large pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure you put a rag or something on your calipers so you don't damage the piston or the paint.

Now, look at the way the pads, the little steel pieces at each end of the pads and the anti-rattle spring are in the caliper support bracket. Remove the old pads and parts and install the new pads and parts in the same way. Make sure you put the fiber face of the pad TOWARDS THE ROTOR. Don't laugh, I've lots of people put them in backwards, especially on the back side of the rotor.

Now, carefully slide the caliper back down over the pads taking care not to knock the pads out of there positions. I put a little Loctite 242 (med. strength blue) on the threads of the caliper retainer bolts and reinstall them. Torque them to about 25 foot pounds.
Check the brake fluid level in the rear master cylinder and slowly "pump" the rear brake pedal until the rear brake feels firm. Wait a few minutes and mash the brake pedal one time to the bottom. If it goes down to lower point and then on the next "pump" is higher, you probably need to bleed air from the system.

Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, press the rear brake pedal to the bottom and hold it there, close the bleed valve, and then release the brake pedal. Continue to do this until all the air is out of the system and the rear brake pedal feels firm on the first time it's depressed. While doing this, never allow the rear brake fluid reserviour to run out of fluid. If it does, you'll have to start all over with the bleeding process. Use only DOT 5 brake fluid. DOT 5 and DOT 3 or 4 are NOT compatible and will not mix. If they are mixed, it will cause you a lot of trouble in the future.

Test the brakes before you ride the bike and then again when you first ride the bike at a very low speed. Failure to do this job properly can cause serious injury or death. Brakes must operate properly. Good Luck!