How do I adjust final drive chain - 2006 Ducati Multistrada 1000 DS

Question edited for clarity and full year make and model.
Question moved to correct category from 'Road Motorcycles'.

Clunk noises when shifting are caused by badly adjusted clutches and slack primary chains and final drive belts.

Clutch
https://www.google.com/search?q=1995+Harley+Davidson+FLHR+Road+King+adjust+clutch

Primary Chain
https://www.google.com/search?q=1995+harley+davidson+flhr+road+king+adjust+chain+tension

'not wanting to go', could be a few things, but starts with checking the spark plugs, following by cleaning the carburetor.

throw out bearing out of adjustment sometimes it can be done thruogh the cabel not always good luck

well it can only be one of 2 things as you havent described alot, alternator is on the left side as is the final drive....

check the bearings and the parts mentioned.

if its chain check the adjustment, if its final drive check the oil.

for alternator take casing off and check screws are tight and loctited.

When is the last time you checked the tension on your primary drive chain? Remove the round plug at the top of the primary cover. You can reach the primary chain through this hole. Use your finger to gauge the up and down movement of the chain. If you need to adjust the chain, on the bottom of the primary is an adjusting bolt with a lock nut. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster upwards to tighten the chain, lower it to loosen the chain. The chain should have 3/8" to 1/2" of movement with the engine cold. Usually the final drive belt won't make a rattling noise since it's a rubber-like compound. It should have a tension of about 1/2" up and down movement with a force of ten pounds applied to it from the underside of the lower run.

Good Luck
Steve

No, you must remove the outer primary, the clutch assembly, primary chain and adjuster, the compensator sprocket, the starter, the inner primary, the rear wheel and the swing arm to change the final drive belt. It's a major job.

Good Luck
Steve

First, check the chain for any bending (sideways), or broken/damaged links/teeth. If ok, clean the drive area and the oil passages in the drive end of the bar, then fit the bar and push it back toward the saw. Place the chain over the sprocket (which you checked for any damage as well), then work the chain over the bar (make sure the bottom run of chain cuts toward you). Pull the bar out as far as the chain permits, then fit the cover making sure that the adjustment tang fits into one of the large holes and run the mounting fasteners up finger tight. Turn the adjustment screw CW until the chain pulls up to the lower side of the bar, but it can still be pulled by hand. Tighten the fasteners firmly and recheck the chain. Finally, run the tip of the bar near some cardboard for several moments--it should throw off a thin line of oil onto the cardboard. Hope this helps!

safety inspection,no loose,missing or broken bolts.all pinch bolts are tight,axle bolts tight, final drive belt or chain is adjusted ,lights are adjusted correctly foot pegs secured, change oil(s) and plugs have a good ride.

Belts = quite, durable, less cost to replace.
Chain = noisy, last longer, messy oil spots on floor, good ones cost $400.00 or more, have to keep adjusted, hard to break. Im a chain man myself.