2006 H-D FXDWG Bolts backing out of the Rotor into the stator causing damage to the stator. @ Would installing a 2007 Rotor/stator solve this Problem and How would solve it
No, use new fasteners as they are one use only, use locktite and torque accurately
SOURCE: Looking for step by step instructions on replacing
To replace the stator on your Wide Glide, you'll have to pull the outer primary cover off. This means drain the oil and remove the outer primary cover. Then, you'll need a wrench to remove the large nut on the engine compensator sprocket. You'll probably need a "locking bar" to wedge between the sprokets to lock the assembly from turning. Remove the snap ring in the center of the clutch assembly, remove the clutch release plate that is held in by the snap ring. Inside the clutch is a nut that has LEFT HANDED THREADS, remove this nut. Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster. Grab the clutch assembly and the engine compensator sprocket and lift these parts and the chain off as a unit.
Now, there are some thin spacers that go behind the sprocket shaft extension and a 0.090" thick spacer that goes behind the rotor. Do not mix these shims up. You'll see two holes in the rotor. I use two 5/16" bolts about three inches long to get the rotor off. Stick them in the holes just slightly, squeeze the outer ends towards each other and pull the rotor off. The magnets are pretty strong. The stator is held on by four small Torx head bolts and there's nylon retainer with two small screws that hold the plug in. Retorque the four Torx head screws to 40 inch pounds of torque with a Loctite #242 blue or equivalent thread locking compound on them. Reassembly is the reverse of the assembly. The torque on the clutch assembly nut (mainshaft nut) is 60-70 foot pounds with one line of Loctite #271 red locktite, (remember this nut has left-handed threads) and the engine compensator sprocket torques to 150-165 foot pounds with two lines of Loctite #271 red. Adjust the primary chain so that the up and down play in the center of the top run is 3/4" to 7/8" cold. Outer primary bolts torque to 100 inch pounds.
For a better explanation, you'll need an OEM service manual.
Good Luck
Steve
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I don't understand this post. The rotor for the alternator has no bolts in it to back out. The stator is held into the engine case by four small bolts that have very little torque on them. The instructions that come with the new stator says to always use new bolts (they have a dry type bolt locking compound on them) or use a drop of Loctite 242 blue locking compound on them. Now, I have seen the magnets come loose in the rotor and damage the stator. The magnets should be evenly spaced around the inside of the rotor and should not show any signs of rubbing.
Good Luck
Steve
yes it does. I'm doing that entire thing right now. the rotor has 8 screws going through it and into the compensator. the screws you mentioned are only for the stator
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