Change the clutch cable? How do you set the right settings?

1991 Prizm (aka, Corolla) dead clutch (aka SLIPS)
does engine crank and start in gear? in gear?
the first thing to check is the clutch pedal actuation system.
cable on some , and Hydraulic on othere
open hood, see that MC for clutch, is the Reservoir dry?
yes, no?
yes, then the slave or mc is bad or both, the one leaking is bad.
Most cases Hydra clutches can not cause slip. (rare)
its a cable, can if cable frays inside or rust, (big time common)
well all cable clutches need service, if not it fails.
called setting free play in the book, FSM book
I love the above post where he guesses then sets a price.
first is diagnosis prices last and varies all over planet earth
and is useless here. prices. always.
Ill look in Michell's for you.
it's not a cable system,
Mitchells shows, hydra. clutch
so unbolt the slave.(on bell)
start car in gear, does car move. yes /no?
yes, clutch ok , and slave is siezed.
no, then clutch is bad (inside bell housing) $$$$$

i posted both ways, as these era cars run to clutch systems.
that could even change mid year, production.

S= slave
Bell = bell housing
L = clutch lever.
see the 2 bolts?
some Slaves can seize (due to running old fluid full of water)
Dot3 fluid is hydrascopic and needs service every 2 years. min.
we check the MC and all parts related here.
to see if the L lever is stuck to the right above.
never condemn any clutch until these checks are done
or go broke fast. IMO

has a manual transmission? (only clue was very hard t change, you or it?)
Answering for M/t box. (nobody ever posts what they drive first. (DRIVE LINE)
bad clutch cable? be first.
or is it hydra. clutch actuator. (fluid low?)
fluid drops day by day, bingo.
you skipped diagnosis and jumped to changing expensive parts.? wow, $$$$$$$$$$$$$

using wrong trans fluid.?
clutch cable/or slave/mC bad.?
clutch drags.?
if cable , pedal free play not set right. (lose)

When you say set your clutch, what do you need to know? Are we talking about the clutch lever, if so here is what you will need. One nickel, place the nickel between the lever and perch. Adj cable out so when you pull on the lever you feel tension right as the nickel falls out. This amount of play will insure the plates are closing the whole away. If you need help on the other end of the cable please feel free to contact me M. Woodring

Loosen the cable adjustment that's on the right side of the bike just behind the starter solenoid. Turn the adjuster in a good bit. Remove the derby cover and loosen the lock nut in the center of the clutch assembly. Turn the adjusting screw inwards or outwards to adjust the position of the clutch release arm. Seems like 1979 was a transition year in which they changed the type of transmission that was used in the bike. The early models used the rotary top transmission and the late models used the rachet top (cow pie) transmission. If you have the rotary top transmission, adjust the center screw of the clutch until the gap between the starter and the release lever measures 3/8" to 5/8". If you have a ratchet top (cow pie) transmission, set the gap between the release lever and the small diameter section of the top of the shifting mechanism at 13/16". Once you get this set, go back to the cable adjuster and turn it outwards until you have about an 1/8" freeplay in the cable.

Good Luck
steve

Hi :) Sounds like the clutch pack if the machanic didn't setup the T.V. Cable The right way the hydraulic pressure wouldn't be properly set and as you are driving the clutches would be slipping everytime they change gears and since you use 3rd and 4th the most they go first.

Did you set up the clutch mechanism/pushrod correctly? Where the clutch cable goes into the engine you need to remove the cover to access it. First off, set some freeplay into the cable by either/and adjusting the lower end of the cable or at the lever.
Once done, under the cover you will see a lock nut on the end of a shaft with a slot in it for your screwdriver. Slacken the lock nut. Turn the shaft in (clock wise) until you just feel resistance. Now back it out half a turn. Secure the lock nut ensuring the centre shaft does not turn. Now set the freeplay in the cable to give a few mm's play at the lever (you may be able to acheive this with just the knurled adjuster at the lever end, if not use the inline adjuster at the point where the cable goes into the engine cover). Make sure this is right before the hassle of checking the plates.

Check there is at least 1/2" play at the little finger end of the clutch handlebar lever, if there isn't loosen the cable off until there is. If there is, adjust/replace the clutch plates as required. It may be just the clutch spring if you are very lucky!

if you follow clutch cable down you will find your mid range adjustment use 1/2 in and 9/16 in wrench and back off now go down to your primary cover and remove inspection cover (where clutch cable goes into primary cover) take off cover and spring hex nut.with screw driver turn adjusting screw counterclockwise until lightly seated back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn replace spring hex lock (spring facing out) go back to mid-range adjuster on cable adjust so you have an 1/8 in free play (you can use a nicheol) to set freeplay at lever pull lever in three times to check and set

Valeo car parts does a clutch assembly complete with modified flywheel as well,so its a conventional type clutch without being the back to front one thats fitted from new.BUTS ITS EXPENSIVE about 800€ but it works

Usually there are 2 adjustment points. One at the clutch lever, and one on the clutch pull on the crankcase. Follow the cable from the handlebars to the engine, there should be an adjust bolt or two. The adjustment at the handlebar lever is usually a screw with a thumbwheel lock nut. Depending on what you are trying to adjust, dictates which one you will use and in what direction it will go. If the clutch is slipping, use the thumbwheel adjuster. Loosen it, back the screw out 2-3 turns, tighten. and check you clutch. if this one is all the way out, go to the crankcase, loosen the bolt on the richt side of the bracket first, then loosen the left one, one turn at a time, checing the clutch. once it's where you want it. tighten the right bolt only. You can do this with a set of open end or box wrenches. An adjustable wrench works in a pinch.