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If your battery is working well, You've got problem with either solenoid or starter motor.When you press the starter button, you should hear 'click' sound of solenoid, if not problem is in your solenoid ( I suggest for replacement). If there is 'click' sound but your bike will not crank, the problem is your starter motor. Now you need to check your carbon brush. Replace it with new one if you encountered abnormality.
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If you get a clicking sound, then it is either your starter solenoid or the battery is low. If you simply get nothing, then it is wiring. Use jumper cables and and jump from an external battery. Go "-" to frame and "+" to the battery side of the solenoid. Push the starter button. It should click and send power to the starter. If it doesn't click then the problem lies with the wiring between the solenoid and starter button, or the solenoid itself. If the solenoid did click but the motor didn't turn over, put your "+" jumper cable directly on the starter motor's external contact. If the motor turns over, your problem is your solenoid. If the starter motor refuses to turn over, then your problem is the starter motor.
What is wrong????????? That would be a guess on anyones part here ! Testing the electrical circuits involved would be the proper way to diagnose this no start problem ! Using a volt meter an wiring diagram to check voltage at different point's in the starter circuit . voltage drop testing ! Plus knowing how the starter system works !
Starter Circuit Operation
Voltage is applied at all times to the ignition switch from the IGN A fuse through CKT 42 (RED). When the ignition switch is turned to the START position, voltage is applied to the CRANK fuse through CKT 5 (YEL). From the CRANK fuse , voltage is either applied to the clutch pedal position switch (M/T) or the park/neutral position switch (A/T) through CKT 806 (PPL). When either the clutch is disengaged (M/T) or the transmission is in park or neutral (A/T), voltage is applied to the coil of the starter relay through CKT 1035 (PPL/WHT). Since the starter relay is permanently grounded at ground G102 through CKT 150 (BLK), the starter relay energizes.
Voltage is applied at all times to the starter relay contacts from IGN A fuse through CKT 42 (RED). When the starter relay energizes, the starter relay contacts close, and voltage is applied to the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor solenoid is permanently case grounded, the starter motor solenoid will energize two coils. The pull-in winding coil energizes in order to pull the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. When the contacts close, a plunger on the contacts causes the pull-in winding coil circuit to open. The hold-in winding coil then holds the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. Voltage is then applied to the starter motor from the battery through CKT 1 (RED) and the closed contacts of the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor is also permanently case grounded, the starter motor will run until the ignition switch is moved out of the START position. When this happens, a spring in the starter motor solenoid moves the starter motor solenoid contacts and the plunger back to the rest position.
Can the motor be turned by a socket on the Harmonic balancer bolt? If it can I would say itis a faulty starter motor. You could also remove the starter, put it in a vice & hook jumper leads to it to test it but if the motor turns by hand its safe to say the starter is ********
G'day. First you need to confirm then, is it the starter motor at fault or the engines refusal to turn over. I suggest confirm your engine turns over by hand.Use a socket/spanner on crank end or if not so accessable try remove spark plugs,shift into top gear & try turn over the engine using the rear wheel.Once you have proven that the engine turns over(is not seized)then it is logically your starter motor, as you by-passed your starter circuit when you shorted the solinoid with your screwdriver & the starter motor didn't turn.So, next remove your starter motor & test it on the bench/floor.Secure the starter motor.In a vice is best but on the floor with your foot firmlly on it will do. Using jumper leads conect it to your battery.Negative to the body of the starter motor.Now touch the posative to the starter motor terminal & see if it works- It shouldn't. Now you know your starter motor is the problem.Replace or repair,re-test,re-fit & you should be OK. Please let me know if you have any other problems with this & I'm happy to help. Regards Andrew Porrelli
If the battery is fine, why jump it? Faulty thinking to state or think: all electrical in the car work fine. If it did the starter motor would be turning the engine over. The starter motor work on electrical...not all is fine.
check: 1) 60a starter fuse/relay. 2) voltage to starter when turning key to activate starter motor, this will rule out ignition switch or relay. 3) apply direct voltage to starter motor to detect bad starter motor.
Hi Tonymcder; Here's what happens in the start sequence when ypi turn the key.
When you turn the key, you should at least hear the starter solenoid click. When you turn the key the ignition switch sends 12 volts to the Starter solenoid ( really just a relay). The Solenoid closes and applies 12 volts (at a high current) to the starter motor to crank the engine. If you have a way to measure voltage, you should get 12 volts at the small terminal on the starter solenoid. The solenoid is mounted on the top of the starter motor.If you get no voltage, probably an ignition switch If you get 12 volts and the starter doesn't crank the starter is probably defective. At this [point take a small hammer and tap the starter motor, not hard, just medium. Sometimes this will cause the starter motor to catch next time you turn the key. Best bet is to remove the starter motor (with solenoid attached) and take it to an Auto Zone type store where they can check it out for you. Be sure you disconnect the ground terminal of the battery before you attempt to remove the starter motor. Hope this helps Loringh Thanks for using FixYa
When you turn the key, you should at least hear the starter solenoid click. When you turn the key the ignition switch sends 12 volts to the Starter solenoid ( really just a relay). The Solenoid closes and applies 12 volts (at a high current) to the starter motor to crank the engine. If you have a way to measure voltage, you should get 12 volts at the small terminal on the starter solenoid. The solenoid is mounted on the top of the starter motor.If you get 12 volts but no cranking, the solenoid is not working. If you get 12 volts and the starter doesn't crank the starter is defective. At this [point take a small hammer and tap the starter motor, not hard, just medium. Sometimes this will cause the starter motor to catch next time you turn the key. Best bet is to remove the starter motor (with solenoid attached) and take it to an Auto Zone type store where they can check it out for you. Be dure you disconnect the ground terminal of the battery before you attempt to remove the starter motor.
Hope this helps Good luck loringh PS Please leave a rating for me if appropriate Thks
Nate, I'm not sure what you mean when you say,"I can get it to whine but not turn over. The starter is trying to get it to turn, but I don't think it is getting any gas".
Separate and aprt from not getting any gas is the fact( if I understande you correctly) that the motor is not being cranked by the starter motor. You say "it whines". You are referring to the starter motor, right? the starter motor should not "whine". If this is what's happening by guess is the Bendix spring in the starter motor is broken. The bendix spring is a heavy spring that is mounter on s worm gear in the starter motor. When you go to start the motor by turning the key the starter motor turn and the spring travels down this worm gear and engages tthe geared flywheel and cranks the engine. As soon as the engine starts the flywheel is now turning the bendix spring faster that the starter motor and the spring kicks back to its original position. If the spring is broken it never engages the flywheel and the engine wont crank. The fact that you say the starter "whines" is what I would expect you to hear if the starter is at fault.
As far as no fuel flow there are 2 ifs: if you have an electric fuel pump, then there is a problem in the fuel flow. If you do not have a electric pump then the fuel pump runs off of the engines motion and since the engine is not cranking, the pump is not pumping and the fuel is not flowing.
Anything else you can add before we conclude that the starter has to come off?
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