Clutch cable broken - 2006 kawasaki ZX-6R

first off make sure that it is a clutch problem
there are too often reports that the diy or mechanic has replaced the clutch when the problem was a broken/ jamming clutch cable or faulty clutch master cylinder
the same symptoms of a slipping clutch, not disengaging to select gears , shuddering etc are indicative of clutch control problems ___ cable or hydraulic failures or broken engine mounts
a lot cheaper to check the outside bits first

Is it a cable or Hydraulic Clutch. Could be Hydraaulic Master Cylinder in Clutch or no fluid . Or a broken cable or broken mounting point for the cable in engine bay near firewall if it is a cable .

Escapes do not have clutch cables. They have a hydraulic clutch, which in my opinion is easier to work on. My 2001Escape did something similar a few years ago. It wouldn't disengage the clutch enough to get it into gear. It had a bad clutch slave cylinder.

Check under the hood and see if you have a leak of brake/clutch fluid (same reservoir)

If not then you either have a bad clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder most likely.

see this steps and fix it. God bless you
Clutch Cable Replacement The clutch cable provides a means to "break the drive" between the engine and the wheels. The engine spins constantly, but the wheels do not, so in order to stop a car's wheels without turning off the engine, the wheels have to disconnect from the engine. When the clutch pedal is pressed, the cable disengages the plates, allowing the driver to shift gears or coast without killing the engine.
A failing clutch cable may make the clutch pedal difficult to depress. If the clutch cable fails, the clutch pedal may remain on the floor and not return to its normal position.
To replace the clutch cable, disconnect it from the clutch pedal (usually inside the vehicle) and from the release mechanism or cable attachment that operates the clutch assembly (usually at the transmission beneath the vehicle). A new clutch cable is then installed and adjusted. (The specifics vary according to the vehicle and range from straightforward to very difficult.)

probably have a leak in the system somewhere fill it up with the proper fluid push pedel slowly while someone inspects the clutch lines lines and slave cylinder, and master cylinder to see where its coming from, there not too many parts in the clutch system. the slave sylinder may be internal which would make it harder to inspect but not inpossible

Sure you can fix it yourself. First lets make sure the cable is broke. When you pull in the clutch does the other end of the cable move?
If not then disconnect the cable from the lever and pull on the end by hand. Did you just pull a broken cable out of the sleeve?
If so then purchase a new cable and replce the broken one paying particular attention to the way it is routed. place the adjuster on the lever end a tad less than half way. Adjust the clutch end of the cable to take up the slack. Work the lever 3 times ( to seat everything) and use the adjuster at the lever for final adjustment. You want about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of play at the end of the lever befor the cable starts to actuate the clutch arm. Adjust and lock.

is clutch pedal down on floor,if so,could be broken cable or release fork,if its stuck at top its fork or clutch damage,online at alldata.

On your bike there are two clutch parts that can wear and cause this problem. The broken spring should be replaced but is not causing the problem. Check the bottom of the clutch release shaft #13102. The end of the shaft may be broken, bent or severely worn. The part the shaft engages with is the clutch rod #46102. It could be bent, broken or severely worn. This part is inside the clutch hub. Just remove the five springs and then the outer cover plate and the rod should be accessible.

Okay hotcrap10, since the fellow who did the original posting is not responding to clairification requests, I hereby turn this posting over to you. ( sounds official don't it! ).

Here are the possibilities > > Bent clutch push rod, missing push rod ball bearing or push rod, worn out actuator shaft cam, Missing friction disk (5), or pressure plate (4), totally worn out friction disks, clutch plates not installed in the correct sequence, extremely weak clutch springs, stripped teeth on the clutch hub, wrong clutch cable length (inner cable vs outer cable), broken shaft, bent then broken shift fork stems, broken slider gear dogs and a missing shift fork pin.

You didn't say if anyone had worked on the clutch or gearbox so I am throwing in nearly EVERYTHING possible that could create the problem. A little more background and most of the above can be ruled out. What kind of oil do you have in the gearbox? Did you take the clutch apart? What else can you tell me? Get back to me.