Zzr1100 C model.very un even idle.standing still and reving seems better but not rite.riding and coming to a stop it dies.no leaks,carbs sync good,new jet kit....what else??

To check your oil always have your bike upright and level. Using the center stand always makes for a quick level check before a ride. Some windows have a high and low mark on them, or a center dot on them for correct level, or a high/low bar behind the window to judge correct level. You may have to take your carburetors apart,clean and inspect them. Fluctuating idle is normally an air leak or improperly synchronized carburetors. Inspect your intake manifolds for cracks and separation , take off your carb tops and inspect the diaphragms for cracks, Inspect your float needles for wear, and make sure all the jets and passageways are clear. Check air screw settings and synchronize your carburetors(make sure that one carburetor is not set higher than the other three.) Your bike is almost 20 years old and cracking rubber is now an issue.

hi,i am not overly familiar with these but it sounds very much to me like a carb problem.and very likely a carb balance problem(if the bike has carbs),the problem being that as the linkages and internal parts of the carb wears the carbs will be getting an imbalanced fuel and air load,its takes very little for the carbs to go out of sync,but when they do it will cause erratic running particularly at idle,or when as is your case coming down off the throttle to an idle,there will be isufficent mixture or fuel in the system to let the bike keep running,carb imbalance normally affects the slow speed circuit in the carbs more noticeably because of the low rpm,not so noticeable at high rpm as the carbs are getting plenty of fuel.If the bike is injected then it maybe that the butterflys in the throttle bodies have suffered the same fate,the linkages may have worn slightly allowing an imbalance to occur,or if injected(again)the fuel injection may need remapping,.road conditions are very hard to replicate in a workshop environment and your problem seems to go away once the mechanic touches the bike(its almost like the bike knows it is at the doctors),i would put my guess on the carbs being out of sync,get the dealer to put a set of gauges on it and see what happens,the adjustment only has to be out by 1/64 of a turn to be wrong...hope this helps..let me know how you get on...cheers..ian

you have sticky carbs or an air leak on the inlet manefoulds take the bike right back and have words with the guy who "fixed it!" like jently grad him round the neck and bang his head onto a wall till he gets it right this time you payed good money for the fix,, go back and get it done right

Even though you probably don't have that many miles on the bike, or if you do have a lot riding time on it, it sounds to me like you need a valve adjustment. That's a high reving bike for that engine that works pretty hard so you might have 1 - 3 loose valves.

hi buddy does it die if you keep reving it also try playing with the mixture screw on the carb in pic below get back to me

if this is a two stroke,then if you have run it out of fuel,there is no lubrication for the piston and you may have damaged the piston or piston rings,check the compression,esay test is remove sprk plug pit your finger hard into the hole and crank the bike over,if your finger gets pushed off with loud crack sound then compression should be ok,but if it doesnt and the preesure is very weak then you will be looking at a top end rebuild,hope this helps

hi m8y,, soundz like the needles in the carb are sticking,and the diaphram barrels in the carb arnt sliding closed easily,,,or u have a slightly bent needle,, pull the carbs off and using your finger lift the needle barrels up and see if they slide closed if they aint then theres a bent needle,, and check all 4 seat the same,,, also check u dont have pin holes in the diaphrams to,that will make it rev like mad,, check this 1st m8,, if no change come back and il take u threw next step,,cheers m8,

The carbs have been balanced but not synchronized? Each of the four carb slides needs to begin to open at the exact same time. Being out of sync can cause your problem. The balance and sync on a four cylinder bike is best done in the shop. If you try it yourself have a fire extinguisher handy. < < I am serious here.

Since the carbs have been cleaned and 'adjusted', I will take the liberty to note the air screw and the idle screw factory settings and how to set them. On each carb, GENTLY turn both screws inward until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw outward one and one half turns. Now you are back to the stock settings.

If your bike has CDI ignition, the timing is preset and is not adjustable.

Please rate this answer. Thanks Corrie!

hi,
to get a good combustion inside the engine, you(engine) needs fuel-air mixture, since it leaks fuel the mixture is too rich on air. Where does the carb leak? maybe it's just the connection that leaks...I mean where the fuel line connects to the carb, If it leaks there it also sucks in extra air instead of fuel, and therefor the engine doesnt run smooth, choke or no choke, that makes no difference. Check that and if it leaks there just change out the fuel line with a new hose.
It could also be the little rubber ring that seals of the carb, If it leaks from the top of the carb...it's the little ring. Take off the top of the carb and check the condition of the ring, if faulty.. replace it with a new one.
Hope this helps....can be pretty dangerous riding around with a leaking carb... Good luck, Gilbert.

It sounds like the idle screw is not set right., but if your going to clean the carbs anywyas. Clean them, sync them and see how she runs, if still doing the same thing the idle screw needs to be adjusted. The RPMs should be between 800 to 1200 while idling. If your bike is an older on it will most likely sit around the 1200 rpm at idle.