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Posted on Jul 09, 2010

Wheres fuel inlet on vn800a carb

Where does fuel line go on 2002 vn800a carb there are two elbows one high one low

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  • Contributor 11 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 09, 2010
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Low one upper is a vent black should be the lower one black is fuel gray is air

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How to look up codes for check engine light on harley davidson flhx

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B0563 Battery Voltage High TSM/TSSM
B1004 Fuel Level Sending Unit Low Instruments
B1005 Fuel Level Sending Unit High/Open Instruments
B1006 Accessory Line Overvoltage Instruments
B1007 Ignition Line Overvoltage Instruments
B1008 Reset Switch Closed Instruments
B1131 Alarm Output Low TSM/TSSM
B1132 Alarm Output High TSM/TSSM
B1134 Starter Output High TSM/TSSM
B1135 Accelerometer Fault TSM/TSSM
B1151 Sidecar BAS Low TSM/TSSM
B1152 Sidecar BAS High TSM/TSSM
B1153 Sidecar BAS Out of Range TSM/TSSM
P0106 MAP Sensor Rate of Range Error Carb
P0107 Map Sensor Failed Open/Low Carb
P0107 Map Sensor Open/Low EFI
P0108 Map Sensor Failed High Carb
P0108 Map Sensor High EFI
P0112 IAT Sensor Voltage Low EFI
P0113 IAT Sensor Voltage Open/High EFI
P0117 ET Sensor Voltage Low EFI
P0118 ET Sensor Voltage Open/High EFI
P0122 TP Sensor Open/Low EFI
P0123 TP Sensor High EFI
P0261 Front Injector Open/Low EFI
P0262 Front Injector High EFI
P0263 Rear Injector Open/Low EFI
P0264 Rear Injector High EFI
P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent Carb
P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent EFI
P0374 CKP Sensor Not Detected Carb
P0374 CKP Sensor Synch Error EFI
P0501 VSS Low Carb
P0501 VSS Low EFI
P0502 VSS High/Open Carb
P0502 VSS High/Open EFI
P0505 Loss of Idle Sped Control EFI
P0562 Battery Voltage Low Carb
P0562 Battery Voltage Low EFI
P0563 Battery Voltage High Carb
P0563 Battery Voltage High EFI
P0602 Calibration Memory Error Carb
P0603 EEPROM Failure Carb
P0603 ECM EEPROM Error EFI
P0604 RAM Failure Carb
P0605 Program Memory Error Carb
P0605 ECM Flash Error EFI
P0607 Converter Error Carb
P1001 System Relay Coil Open/Low EFI
P1002 System relay Coil High/Shorted EFI
P1003 System relay Contacts Open EFI
P1004 System Relay Contacts Closed EFI
P1009 Incorrect Password Carb
P1009 Incorrect Password EFI
P1010 Missing Password Carb
P1010 Missing Password EFI
P1351 Front Ignition Open/Low Carb
P1351 Front Ignition Open/Low EFI
P1352 Front Ignition Coil High/Shorted Carb
P1352 Front Ignition Coil High/Shorted EFI
P1353 Front Cylinder No Combustion EFI
P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Open/Low Carb
P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Open/Low EFI
P1355 Rear Ignition Coil High/Shorted Carb
P1355 Rear Ignition Coil High/Shorted EFI
P1356 Rear Cylinder No Combustion EFI
P1357 Intermittent Secondary Front EFI
P1358 Intermittent Secondary Rear EFI
U1016 Loss of ICM/ECM Serial Data Instruments
U1016 Loss of ECM Serial Data, Vehicle Speed, Vehicle Inhibit Motion or Powertrain Security Status TSM/TSSM
U1064 Loss of TSM/TSSM Serial Data Carb
U1064 Loss of TSM/TSSM Serial Data EFI
U1064 Loss of TSM/TSSM Serial Data Instruments
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data Carb
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data EFI
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data TSM/TSSM
U1255 Missing Message at Speedometer EFI
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message EFI
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message Instruments
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message TSM/TSSM
U1300 Serial Data Low Carb
U1300 Serial Data Low EFI
U1300 Serial Data Low Instruments
U1300 Serial Data Low TSM/TSSM
U1301 Serial Data Open/High Carb
U1301 Serial Data Open/High EFI
U1301 Serial Data Open/High Instruments
U1301 Serial Data Open/High TSM/TSSM
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AFR - Air Fuel Ratio
ATS - Air Temperature Sensor
BAS - Bank Angle Sensor
CCM - Cruise Control Module
CKP - Crank Position Sensor. The CKP generates an "AC signal" which is sent to the ECM where it is used to reference engine position (TDC) and speed.
DTC - Diagnostic Trouble Codes
ECM - Electronic Control Module. (The Computer) Computes the spark advance for proper ignition timing and fuel control based on sensor inputs
(from CKP, MAP & TP sensors) and controls the low-voltage circuits for the ignition coils and injectors.
The dwell time for the ignition coil is also calculated in the microprocessor and is dependent upon battery voltage. The programmed dwell feature gives adequate spark at all speeds.
ECT - Engine Coolant Temperature. Sensor also controls the cooling fan relay that provides 12 Vdc to the fans.
EFI - Electronic Fuel Injection
EFP - Electronic Fuel Pump
ET - Engine Temperature sensor
FI - Fuel Injectors
FPR - Fuel Pressure regulator
IAC - Idle Air Control actuator
IAT - Intake Air Temperature sensor
ISS - Ion Sensing System...detonation detection
MAP - manifold Absolute Pressure sensor. The MAP sensor monitors the intake manifold pressure (vacuum) and sends the information to the ECM.
The EMC then adjusts the spark and fuel-timing advance curves for optimum performance.
TP - Throttle Position Sensor
TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
VE - Volume Efficiency
VSS - Vehicle Speed Sensor. Used as an input for idle speed control
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1answer

I am having a hard time getting my carburetor adjusted for my Troy Bilt 2 cycle tiller

First you need to repair the fuel inlet properly. You likely have an air leak the way it is now. You can get a replacement inlet elbow at your local parts shop. Tecumpseh and briggs are a bit different but look very similar so be sure what you have before you go. grab hold of the brass with channel locks or vice grips and pull straight out to remove the old one. Put a dab of oil on the new one, align the way you want it to face and press in firmly. Do not twist or it will break again.
Once the inlet is repaired properly then you can adjust the carb. The low speed jet is the one closest to the motor. The initial settings are 1 and a half turns out for both low and high.
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Where does the fuel line from tank with filter fit on walbro carb.also where does the primer line go?

The fuel line from the tank fits to the main fuel inlet on the carb ( the inlet nearest to the alloy pump cover secured by a single screw), the other conection on the carb has a pipe that conects to the shortest conection on the back of the primer ( suction side ) a pipe then goes from the longer conection on the primer ( pressure side ) back to the tank, it just pushes into the top of the tank.
So to recap the primer pulls fuel from the carb, and dumps it back into the tank.
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Need fuel line routing diagram

There are no diagrams of this, it is fairly easy to do once you know how it works, the fuel pipe from the fuel tank, with the filter on the end, goes to the carb inlet elbow ( closest to the pump cover held with one screw ) then the other hose from the carb ( closest to the metering cover held with four screws ) goes to the short connection on the fuel primer ( suction side ) then the hose from the longer connection on the primer ( pressure side ) goes back to the tank ( usually just pushed into the tank with nothing on the end )
The thing to remember is that the primer pulls fuel from the carb, into the bulb, and pushes it back to the tank, it is not technically a primer, it is a purge.
Hope i have explained this well enough,
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I have a craftsman 917298231 tiller, that has a 3hp briggs and stratton motor. The problems seem to be that it is not getting any fuel. The motor will run for a short time when gasoline is poured in the...

Hi, I will try to help you solve this problem by checking the easiest things first. Do you have a shutoff valve under the tank and is it open? Did you check for dirt inside the tank that might be blocking gas flow, and the fuel line also? Have you looked for loose bolts and gaskets at carb that could let air in and prevent suction bringing gas in combustion chamber? When was it last used and how old is the gas in the tank or has everything dried out? As gas evaporates it leaves a sticky sludge that can plug up small ports or like the inlet needle not letting fuel in.
I really think the problem is with the carburetor either adjustment or that it needs cleaning. Look at the carb and maybe even make a small diagram to remember where everything goes specially the governor rod and spring.
Shut off the fuel valve if you have one. If you don't go ahead and remove the carb from engine. Disconnect the governor rod and spring, the ends are just bent in a special way so you can slide them out of the holes by moving the carb in different positions. Remember which holes they come from, (very important) and try not to bend anything. A little patience is helpful. Now remove the fuel line, lift up the carb as you do and get a golf tee or a pencil to plug the fuel line so gas does not come out.
Remove the special bolt at bottom of carb, it has small holes drilled into it that have to be cleaned very well as they are part of the high speed mixture circuit. Look for a very, very small hole drilled on the side of this bolt towards the thread end of it. There will be a slot machined in the threads and this is where this hole is. Make sure it is clean, (do not use any wires to clean these passages as they might be damaged) The high speed mixture adjustment needle is usually part of this bolt machined into it but not always. If it is not then the high speed port is fixed and has no adjustment.
Now you will find the float, gently move it up and down to see if the inlet needle might be stuck which could be the main problem, not letting gas in. The float is held on with just a pin that you pull out to remove the float and inlet needle. (before removing the pin look for a little wire clip that holds the inlet needle to the float. Remember exactly how it is positioned) Now remove the screw situated on the side of carb, it has a spring on it. This is the low speed idle mixture adjust needle. (BEFORE removing either the high or low adjust needle, turn clockwise until GENTLY seated and remember the number of turns for each one)
Now clean all parts with paint thinners or carb cleaner. (NOT rubber parts) Blow low pressure air into all parts. On the outside of the carb look for a small vent hole, either on the low adjust screw side or the other side, it is again very small and has to be clear. (between me and you I sometimes cheat and use, being very careful a small brass wire or stiff plastic to help clean ports and passages when badly plugged. If you decide to go that way, you do on your own.) Before reassembly check needles for any damage like having been seated too hard and they are marked. If any damage and gaskets don't look too good get a carb kit, they are not that expensive.
Now carefully reassemble. A start for the high and low speed mixture adjust needles. The low screw on until lightly seated and back out 1 turn. The high speed mixture needle on the bottom of carb on bowl bolt, turn in until lightly seated and turn back out 11/2 turns. This is what the manufacturers suggest as a start that should get the engine going to make final adjustments, They are usually very close to being right. There is a screw on top of the carb, this is to adjust the idle speed so that when you release the throttle it will not stop on you. Adjust the way you like your idle speed to be at. I hope this gets you going. Final adjust of carb needle screws is not too hard if you take your time.
Do not go too lean, which means not enough gas in the fuel air mixture as it could make your engine run too hot. When you turn a needle screw in (clockwise) there is less fuel and when you turn out there is more gas in the mix of air and fuel. When you make adjustments go 1/8 turn at a time. Another point is when you push on the throttle to get more speed and it sort of misses or hesitates. turn low mixture screw out (counterclockwise) to get more gas in mix until it accelerates without missing.
Reinstall the carb on the engine, (you might need a new gasket, I suggest you get a new one) Be specially careful with the 2 governor linkages on the carb. If you got a carb kit there should be one included.
I hope I have given you enough info to do this. If you do this yourself I am assuming that you have a bit of mechanical experience as this is not that easy to do. I certainly hope this is helpful so best regards and good luck. I will gladly answer any more questions.
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Which fuel line "port/inlet" on the Walbro wt-380 goes to the fuel tank? It's on a Craftsman 25cc Gas "Weed Wacker" Line Trimmer purchased in 2002. It has Walbro WT-380 carburetor with external primer...

Usually the line with the filter on it that comes from the tank goes to carb. inlet first which is most likely close to the bottom side of the carb.nearest to the engine,then the outlet or return line on the carb.goes to the inlet side of the primer and the outlet side of the primer goes back to the tank. The primer draws fuel through the carb to the primer to the tank if its not? then correct the line connections until it does
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1answer

I have a 21cc craftsman gas line trimmer part number

1. the main fuel inlet line should have enough line to let the fuel filter set on the bottom of the tank and slide to the side when the trimmer is turned sideways.
2. The screw that holds the inlet needle lever pin on the metering side of the carb gets tightened down and is not adjustable. The adjustment is in the lever itself.
3. the throttle plate would go closest to the crankcase and the choke would be away.
4. The brass inlet that goes directly to the fuel pump side of the carb is the main fuel line ( with the fuel filter on the other end in the tank).
5. the low speed screw ( usually marked with an L or LO) is always the closest one to the crankcase. It should be 1 and 1/2 turns out from bottom ( of course you will likely need to adjust from the starting point- almost all poulans need 2 turns (( craftsman is a poulan)). If there are 2 screws the one furthest from the cranckcase od the high speed. Start at 1 and 1/4 turn out for that. To adjust hold throttle wide open and turn out till you hear that 2-stroke cackle. Turn the screws out for richer and in for leaner. Set the low speed first. Turning out and richening up the lo will drop the idle so you will likely need to turn in the idle screw half a turn for every half a turn you turn out the lo jet. Then adjust the hi for a cackle and good performance under load.
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2answers

Replaced primer bulb and fuel lines, now it won't stay running

The smaller line is the supply to the carb. and should have the filter in the tank, with sufficient length to allow fuel pickup from the bottom of the tank.The larger line returns excess fuel and pressure to the top of the tank.By squeezing the bulb and watching the fuel lines you will be able to determine if you have them right on the carb.
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Replaced the fuel lines primary and return will not start now

You must go back over your new line replacements and see what you did to "starve fuel" first .Sounds like you have created a problem in new fuel lines

Mar 17, 2009 • Garden
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Kawasaki gpz 1000 rx 1987 model

Running well at high revs would indicate that all the fuel and air it needs are getting to the engine and you also have a good spark. Probably no problem with air and fuel filter ( if fitted) or sparkplugs.

Running hot, and bad idling are signs of a lean air fuel mixture. The engine is probably not getting enough fuel at low revs.

This could be caused by an air leak between the carburettors and the engine. Check that the vacuum line to the fuel tap is properly secured at both ends. It is behind the fuel line at the tap.

Get a a short length of hollow plastic tube and use it like a stethascope - put one end to your ear and move the other end around your carburettor mounts with your engine revs as low as you can get, and listen for any sucking noises that would indicate a leak. Look for cracks in the rubber inlets.

The other possibility is that there is an internal blockage in the idling jets or idling fuel circuit. This is where dirt tends to lodge because the jet dimensions and passageways are very fine - The high speed jets are much bigger and dirt often just passes straight through.

Try a little bit of choke while the engine is warm to see if you get a stronger low speed response. If so that would point to an internal blockage.
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