2005 suzuki sv650 won't crank battery new & full charge no power to starter. checked fuses under seat one gets power on both sides other is dead. ran ok when parked 2 years ago.

double posted and tests DONE WRONG
the battery must not be dead is first
and not testing fuse, with KEY on,
1;/2 the fuses are dead KEY off that is 100% Normal.
key on does IP cluster glow lamps as it did just like it did for 13 years?
head lamps bright key on an off both, (it must)
heater blower on high, works loud ,key on,
is the starter motor dead/? called cranking,?????????????

you said new crank , I'm sure you meant a new starter motor>?
is the starter dead? now? if yes post how to test a dead starter.
starters fail in many ways.

• dead
• chatters.
• clicks,
• makes a HUGE nasty loud bang, (engine or it seized)
• or starter spins fast (sounds like sewing machined) but engine cranks shaft never spins (turns ) starter pinon failure.

or starter goes GRRRRRGRRRRRR and crank shaft spins but does not start.(seen and heard)

a dead starter with a good battery (charged) may crank
if you learn to crank it in NEUTRAL. (auto tranny?)
does starter work , JUMPER cable jump started?????
crank in park then try Neutral.
on stick shift cars the clutch switch bad kills cranking.

Did you check power an grounds using voltage drop testing , did you check battery voltage an computer control at the starter motor relay in the under hood fuse / relay box ? Instead of guessing you need to learn how to use a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter an test ! The powertrain control module controls the starter motor operation ! Starter Voltage Drop VEHICLE RELAYS Operation Diagnosis ,If you pull the relay an jump pin's 30 & 87 the starter should crank ,test the circuit starter motor side ! Pins 85 & 86 are the control side ., Pin 85 or 86 forget which one has battery voltage with the key on . The one with out voltage is control from the engine computer ! Also if the anti theft system is active it wont start !

IS tthis a DIY question? or just want guessing? ill pretend DIY/.
no, the car will not crank.
cranking uses 100 amps of current,
the HL , maybe 10amps, 10x less.
turn over means nothing, cranking matters
both the starter and engine spin, "turns over": (1 can and other might not)
starting is a whole other matter, as is sustained start, called running.
crank?> start, started, running, 1,2,3,4.

the heater blower runs, key on, but the heater switch is off.
seem like the controller is tad upset, (lets fix engine first) and fix blower later. (my bet is it wakes up when battery is happy)

my guess is car has and automatic transmission, right>?
and as such to crank it must do so in, park and in Neutral.
does the engine crank in NEUTRAL. (hold foot brake, keyon, shift th N. ) crank now?
1: check fuses yet?
2: check rested battery voltage yet (meter) 12.6vdc.?
if less battery is bad, or only discharged. if yes, charge it?
no charger use jumper cables to crank car. got cables?
call AAA tow they jump start it? no AAA?
barrow a charged battery and try that, ok battery is charged and it will not crank,,, ,good progress now.
3: i next hot wire the starter solenoid. (some cars this is very hard)
check for about 11vdc at starter key line cranking.
0v means its dead.
hot wire that small starter wire, there, cranks now , key off
the starter is good.
now check voltage at the left side of P/N switch, Park/neutral.
12vdc id good, cranking, 11 is too.
if you cant get at least 11v out of switch 20. that means
the P/N switch is bad, (11 or more input)
(battery is good, solved that in test 2)
so bad transmission park neutral switch called the KEY line.

First be sure your battery is full charge (12.6 volts). Check the fuses. Then you will find the starter solenoid under the seat just behind the battery. With a voltmeter check for voltage coming in from the little wire on the third post when the motor is in neutral, the key is on, the clutch is pulled in, and the start button is pushed.
You are dealing with a very old bike. No matter how well maintained the wires in the switch housings are old and brittle. Its best just to leave them alone unless you are good at soldering very small things. If the start button isn't working bypass it with a hidden button on the frame or under the seat.

Sounds like a possible stuck relay, a bad connector or low battery amperage. Try this to help troubleshoot. Put a volt meter on your battery and check voltage with key off, should be 12.2v at least, turn the key on and check,---then hit the starter switch---you should see a drop in voltage as the battery power goes to the starter---if no voltage drop then power is not going across your start switch. Of course, make sure battery is at full charge, has no dead cells, terminals are clean and tight, and especially the ground. Many times i have found the ground cable going to the frame in bad shape, (you can't see the corrision, u have to remove the cable) this will cause all kinds of problems... no start being one of them. I hope this helps, let me know what you find.

fuse box either under seat or one of the side covers. your issue could be a fuse. can you jump starter with cables to verify starter works?

When you say "the fuses at the relay", I'm taking that to mean the system fuses located behind the left crankcase cover just aft of the coolant reservior. Have you checked the main 30 amp fuse located under the saddle? There should be two 30 amp fuses under the saddle; one is a spare, the other is active. If the main fuse blows out, nothing will work.

On 2005 c90, the starter relay is under the left side cover (Fuel tank half), you must remove center speedometer to remove tank cover, main fuze is in relay just follow battery Pos (red) cable.

clean the battery terminals with a wire brush and tighten the connections up snug