I am installing 16" apehangers on my 2002 1400 intruder. What is the standard length of the clutch & front brake hoses? In order to get longer hoses made I also need to know the dimension of the banjio fittings( inside diamater & thickness,and angles of banjio tubes). THANK YOU

Had this problem about a month ago when I replaced my clutch and brake pipes.
Ensure bike is in upright position and not on side stand. Cover your grips and tank due to fluid spillage.
Use slow motions and pump 10 times depressing the clutch and releasing it fully, before opening nipple. Use only dot 4 or 5 brake fluid. Try by first opening the bleeding nipple, depress clutch, close nipple, release clutch. Do this several times prior to standard bleeding procedure. In my case and I don't know if this was random, but the clutch master's seals collapsed when I removed the pressure in the pipe whilst replacing the clutch and brake pipes. Factory specs say you should replace the brake and clutch pipes every 2 years, so I used braided hoses, they last almost a lifetime in my opinion. It still stays a tedious job bleeding the clutch, so pack a can of patience. In my case I eventually got it right in a unconventional manner. I filled a bleeding bottle(small plastic coke bottle would work fine)with new fluid. I then opened the bleeding nipple (reservoir should be empty when doing this) and gently squeezed fluid through the nipple until it reached the reservoir. This is NOT a recommended procedure as you may damage your master's seal, but I was desperate. After reservoir is full, bleed clutch using standard operating procedure and with a bit of luck you will be having clutch. Hope this helps!

Exhaust push rods are longer

• 6.0740 Inch Overall Length
• Standard Size
• Intake valves are
• 5.7460 Inch Overall Length
• Standard Size. Front head.

front head standing in front of car passenger to driver side
Ex , in ,in Ex ,in Ex

rear head standing in front of car passenger to driver side
Ex. ,In , Ex , In , In , Ex

remember exhaust push rods are longer
Rocker arm bolt ................................ 124 lb. in.plus 30 degrees

The rubber flex brake hose ?---3/16" open wrench
on tubing fittings at one end & remove the bolt at the
caliper

You do both sides,if the flex hose
Rusted or damaged tubing,just what is bad

If your talking the steel tubing for some reason -that is
a cut ,fab & flare job. Tubing avail at auto parts store,
in a lot of lengths

G'day. I can definatly help you with this.This is a problem I have come across many many times in my career as a motorcycle mechanic.It is a very common problem for bikes that have been sitting around for a while.What has happened is that all the clutch plates are stuck together. There are two ways to rectify this problem.One is to remove the clutch cover, remove the clutch springs,then the plates-noting the order- clean, re-lubricate & re-assemble.
The other way- which I have sucessfully used in 98% of cases is to start the bike in neutral,chock the front wheel- I position the bike with the front wheel against a brick wall or good size tree for a dirt bike,hold on the front brake tightly,rev the engine & hold at about 2000 rpm,click it into 2nd gear.CAUTION- The bike may jump forward &/or stall(get some friends/helpers on each side as "catchers" if your not too confident) Try this a couple of times if necessary & it usually works. Also you could try riding the bike with some front brake applied whilst pulling the clutch lever in & out several times.(This seperates the pressure plates whilst the clutch basket is spinning & can let the oil acess the fibre & steel plates whilst there not under pressure).
I hope this helps you.
Kind regards Andrew Porrelli

Better to be too long than too short. Use the short lines as a guide and measure the extra length you need. Reorder the correct size. If the lines are too short the first time the front end fully extends you will tear the end off of the line and have no brakes. Extending the line is a bad option and tying down the front end will change handling and be more expensive than just ordering another set of hoses.

Most of the brake line that you get at the local auto parts stores usually sell 3/16 and it comes in 5 or six feet sow you would have to splice them together and come already with the fittings.They also sell them in smaller lengths.

Check your rear brake resevoir. Fill it with Dot 4 brake fluid and proceed to bleed the brakes, If this does not resore your braking and there is no sign of a leak on the rear caliper, you will have to replace the seals in the master cylinder, or the complete cylinder.

PATH: Brakes > Front Disc Brakes > Brake Disc (Rotor) > Removal & Installation Removal & Installation

1. Raise and support the front of the vehicle on jackstands. Remove the front wheels.
   
2. Remove the caliper assembly; do not let the caliper assembly hang by the brake hose, instead support it with a piece of wire looped around the front spring or control arm.
   
3. Remove the retaining screw from the brake rotor and remove the rotor from the hub.
   

An impact driver, No. 3 phillips screwdriver bit, and a hammer may be needed to remove the retaining screw. It is fairly easy to destroy the screw slots using an ordinary phillips screwdriver to remove the tightly driven screw (see photo).

1. To install the disc, replace the disc on the hub, screw in the retaining screw and replace the caliper assembly.
   

PATH: Brakes > Rear Disc Brakes > Brake Disc (Rotor) > Removal & Installation Removal & Installation

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
   
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
   
3. Disconnect the caliper from the caliper bracket. Support the caliper out of the way with a length of wire. Do not allow the caliper to hang from the brake hose.
   
4. Remove the caliper bracket.
   
5. Remove the two 6mm screws and the brake disc. If the brake disc is difficult to remove, install two 8mm bolts into the threaded holes and tighten them evenly to prevent cocking the rotor.
   
6. Install the rotor in position. Install the two 6mm retaining screws.
   
7. Install the brake caliper. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
   

PATH: Brakes > Rear Disc Brakes > Brake Disc (Rotor) > Removal & Installation Removal & Installation

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
   
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
   
3. Disconnect the caliper from the caliper bracket. Support the caliper out of the way with a length of wire. Do not allow the caliper to hang from the brake hose.
   
4. Remove the caliper bracket.
   
5. Remove the two 6mm screws and the brake disc. If the brake disc is difficult to remove, install two 8mm bolts into the threaded holes and tighten them evenly to prevent cocking the rotor.
   
6. Install the rotor in position. Install the two 6mm retaining screws.
   
7. Install the brake caliper. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
   
8. 
   

Oil System Plugged.
Remove the clutch cover, bar and chain. Clean the oiler hole and channel. Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw.
If no a blunted, hooked piece of wire can be used to pull the hose in the oil tank out. I recommend the filter be replaced. Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is probably left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly. GL
Lou

Remove mastercylinder bolts first, remove vacuum hose. Then go under dash & remove tieon connector to brake peddle. Unbolt brake booster from firewall & remove. Do not unhook breaklines from master cylinder! Reassemble in reverse order.