1. What are the valve clearance setting for a 2004 YZFR1. 2. What are the cam shaft timing settings also for the 2004 YZFR1

No
the valve clearance will remain the same regardless if it is high lift or extended lift
you will have to back of the setting as the valves will be pressed down further initially to ensure that when the cam shaft is being turned over that the valves to not bottom out on the guide or bind up the springs which will result in rocker/shaft and other problems

no compression can be from valves burnt or held open are you sure that it is the rings
if it is not an overhead cam shaft but uses push rods to move the valves then no problem
if it is an over head cam then no so get a manual on how to set the valve timing before you pull it down
you will need the book for all the torque settings and clearances any way including the ring gap for the new rings

you should have bought a Chilton or Haynes manual. most cars and trucks are all different and have a set way to set them. if you broke the chain or belt and bent a valve. you will need to do expensive repairs pulling the heads to change valves. not sure what car you have or why you pulled the timing off. so I cant be sure what to tell you.

the valve timing on a motor is set and cannot be altered. The length of time that the valves are held open is determined by the lift of the cam and this period of time that the valves are held open determines how much mixture is allowed into the cylinder. If you advance the cam shaft you may gain extra mixture and a bit more power but on a single cam the exhaust valve timing is altered and so the advantage of the advance is lost. If you want more go from the motor get specially ground cam shafts ( hot cams) As to tappet clearance, if you have hydraulic lifters then they self adjust and thee is no clearance measurement. If you can adjust the tappets then most engines run .010" hot inlet and .012" exhaust hot Setting the tappets closer means that they open sooner but they also close sooner so the amount of mixture is reduced as the time for the mixture to enter the cylinder is reduced.

My manual shows an 8RC for 70 and 71 and an 18RC for the 72-74

18RC valve clearance HOT IN .008 EX .014 cold spec. .007 .013
Cyl head 72-82 Ft Lbs
Rocker caps 12-17 ft lbs
cam bearing clearance .001-.002
cam endplay .0017-.0066
oil tube 11-16 Ft Lbs

what are the code numbers so i can trouble shoot

Valve Clearance Valve clearance is there to allow the valves to cool in between combustion events (spark), and to make sure the valve closes properly and contains the combustion explosion. You need to cool the valves a little bit, the exhaust valve moreso than the inlet, as it's what sees the most heat as spent burnt gases go past it into the exhaust port. Run too little clearance and you'll cause the valve to "weld" a little bit to its' seat every time it closes, and then take seat metal off again when it opens. Do this enough times and you burn out the valve seat and need the head reconditioned. However, by running less clearance, the valve stays open for that little but longer, and you get more air in and out of the motor, and make more power. Run too much clearance and your motor just sounds like a diesel and loses power and tappet rattle annoys you while you're driving, so it's better to err on the side of caution.
The stock valve clearance (0.008" inlet / 0.012" exhaust, warm) is pretty good for any of the cams I've listed above, they're well-sized street cams, not really wild top heavy race cams that require super high compression to work, so don't be afraid to close the valves up a bit from the suggestions of the cam grinder, which will usually say between 0.010" and 0.014". There are a few ways to set your valve clearances:
Yellow Book Method This is from the factory 3K/4K/5K engine manual, aka The Yellow Books. It's the quick and lazy method.
Set engine to #1 TDC. Crank pulley timing mark should be on 0, distributor rotor should be pointing towards spark plug 1 or 2. Set tappets (counting from the front) 1, 2, 3 and 5. Rotate engine 360 degrees, crank pulley to 0 again, distributor rotor turned 180 degrees. Set tappets 4, 6, 7 and 8.
Nine Method I've never really gotten into doing this, takes too much time and maths for my liking :P Rotate the engine through its' range of movement, as one valve is "on the rock" of its' max lift, subtract the valve number from 9 and that's the tappet you should be setting. For example, if #8 valve is open, set clearance on valve #1. If valve #7 is open, set clearance on #2. And so on.
Stewart uses this method, and rotates the camshaft through its entire base circle and sets the clearance at the highest point. Which is a pretty good idea, as it compensates for the possibility that the base circle has been ground unevenly, and allows you to run the proper valve clearance that you want to run, instead of something that may be a few thou larger in reality.

Clearance is NOT the issue. The Elantra engine I4 (2.0 lit) is an interference valve-.to-pinston clearance. If the valve timing to piston clearance is exceeded (wether advanced or retarded), the valves will 'kiss' the top of the pistons and get bent. Also verify 'INTAKE' & 'EXHAUST' cams have been installed proprely. Valve timing (timing marks at camshaft sprockets in reference to crank shaft sprocket) is essential. Also,.ensure proper timing belt tension.

You need to remove the valve cover and rotate the crank shaft to TDC then with a feeler gauge you check the clearance between the cam lobe and lifter bucket. There are 3 on intake cam and 2 on the exhaust. The clearance will most likely tighten as the valve seats and valve wear in. If the valve clearance gets too tight they will hang open and not seal for proper combustion. Valve clearance for my 2002 YZ426 are intake=0.10-0.15 mm (0.0039-0.0059 in) exhaust=0.20-0.25 mm (0.0079-0.0098 in) the 450 should be the same or very close

Any chance the valve spring has collapsed? Cam shaft thrust washers missing? Cam shaft bearing gone bad?
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