I took the front wheel off and now i have no brake pressure in front brake the brake just will not pump up

Often just open the bleeder valve and let gravity do the work for you. Make sure the brake fluid is topped off. Work from the farthest brake cylinder to the closest cylinder to the brake reservoir.

Engine should be off and pump brake about 4 times to release pressure, then bleed,driver side rear,passenger side rear,passenger side front,then driver's side front,use a bleeder kit.If pressure won't hold and you have drum brakes,remove both rear hubs and check wheel cylinders for leakage.Check flexable fuel lines at wheels and it could be a bad brake master cylinder.

If you have very hot front wheels not stand to touch the rims not the discs - because the discs are very hot due to brakes impact friction- then it is one thing either you have semi blocked pressure hoses on calipers or sticky calipers,or master cylinder or ABS Accumulator. But I suggest to start from the pressure hoses,by jacking up the car on a stand pump the brakes several times and try to rotate the wheels,if are tight to spin then open the bleeder on the caliper to release pressure if kept in and retry to spin the wheel. If are free the you confirm that are your front brake pressure hoses. good luck

Hi Chris, The brake system is basically very simple. If you have duel braking on your vehicle, the usual method is having two brakes operate on the front with for example the left rear and the other system will also operate two front and the right rear. This type of system will have two calipers on each of the front wheels. The tandem system works in a slightly different way, having the forward part of the cylinder pressurizing the rear brakes and the rear part of the cylinder pressurizing the front. I think under the circumstances you are describing, I would have a friend sit inside and pump the brakes repeatedly until the system becomes pressurized (maybe twenty thirty times of pumping the brake pedal) and then ask him or her to keep it pushed firmly down until you find out where its leaking. The amount of brake fluid you report having been sed would indecate a severe leakage. Check the lower parts of the rear wheels for signs of leaking wheel cylinders and then dito for the front wheels. Any signs of wetness at these areas and along the brake system (the plumbing or pipe work) will indicate where the leakage is. If you cannot identify a wheel which is leaking, carefully inspect around and blow the master cylinder and if this no sign go along the fluid lines, taking special note of where the damaged pipe was repaired. If there is a blockage in the line, air may be trapped at that point causing difficulty in pressurizing. Once the place of leakage has been identified it must be attended to before bleeding the system. When bleeding, begin with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder, and work your way back to the master cylinder one wheel at a time, until you reach the closest.Keep in mind that you may find it required to pump the pedal many many times before opening the bleed nipple.Regards John

you need to bleed the brakes,starting from the wheel that's the fartherest away from your master cylinder. if you opened a bleeder valve when you replaced the front brakes,you've let air into the whole brake system.you will need 2 people to bleed the air out of the brakes.1to pump the pedal up for pressure and you to release the pressure of air from the bleeder valves on each wheel.start from the wheel that's the fartherest away from the brake master cylinder. passenger rear wheel.have someone pump the brake pedal up [pump3times]and hold pressure on the brake pedal,you open bleeder valve on the wheel to let the air out,or until the brake pedal goes to the floorboard[never let the person who is pumping the brake pedal to take the pressure off the brake pedal until you've tightened the bleeder valve closed.or else,you're waisting your time. you may have to bleed each wheel twice,or until you see clear brake fluid come out with no bubbles or spurting from each wheel. after you're done with passenger rear wheel,move to driverside rear wheel,then go to passenger front,then drivers front,which is last.when you replaced the brakes,you made a common mistake,you opened the brake lines,which let air into the brake system.it's a very common mistake so don't feel bad.just go back and bleed the brake system.after you do this,you will not make the same mistake again,i guarantee it. thank you for choosing fixya.com and if you need further assistance,please repost your question to fixya.com i'm usually here at least 12 hours a day to assist people for free.that's just me thanks!

You may not have done anything wrong. You won't have any pressure the first couple of times that you press the brake pedal. Try pumping the brakes a few times. When you change the pads you have to open the caliper all the way up to get the caliper back on. When you press the brake the pads won't go all the way to the caliper on the first couple of times you press the brake. But once you pump the pedal, it should build up pressure. If not you will have to bleed the brakes.

start from the fartherest place from brake master cylinder, that will be the rear passenger side wheel. it takes two people to bleed brakes. you will find the bleeder valve screws at the top of inside of the rear drums on both rear wheels, have someone pump the brakes up, will take at least 4 pumps of brake pedal, at 4th pump keep pressure on pedal while you break loose the bleeder valve on the rear wheel, fluid will come out and brake pedal will go down to floor, keep pressure on brake pedal until you've tightened the bleeder screw back [note] you'll only have to back the bleeder valve out about a half turn until you see the fluid come out. after you've done the rear brakes add brake fluid to the master cylinder as it will be low. then go to the front passeger side and you will find the bleeder screw on the brake caliper. repeat the same proceedure as back. remember that pressure on the pedal is a must until you've tightened those bleeder valve screws back or else it will **** air into the brake system. suggest that you bleed all 4 wheels not just the back. after you've bled the front make sure you add more brake fluid back to the master cylinder, it will be low again. hope this helps and thank you for choosing fixya.com

The braking force of the rear wheels is controlled by electronic brake distribution (EBD). The EBD functions like a rear proportioning valve. The EBD system uses the ABS system to control the slip of the rear wheels in partial braking range. The braking force of the rear wheels is controlled electronically by using the inlet and outlet valves located in the HCU. The HCU is a Hydraulic control unit. The HCU consists of a valve body, pump motor, and wire harness.

Did they check for DTC (diagnostic trouble codes) in the system? if so, what were they?

Accumulators in the valve body store extra fluid released to the system for ABS mode operation. The pump is used to clear the accumulator of brake fluid and is operated by a DC type motor. The motor is controlled by the ABM.
The valves modulate brake pressure during antilock braking and are controlled by the ABM.
The HCU provides four channel pressure control individually to all the front and rear brakes. Each of the four channels control the rear & front wheel brakes individually.
During antilock braking, the solenoid valves are opened and closed as needed. The valves are not static. They are cycled rapidly and continuously to modulate pressure and control wheel slip and deceleration.
During normal braking, the HCU solenoid valves and pump are not activated. The master cylinder and power booster operate the same as a vehicle without an ABS brake system.
During antilock braking, solenoid valve pressure modulation occurs in three stages, pressure increase, pressure hold, and pressure decrease. The valves are all contained in the valve body portion of the HCU.


PRESSURE DECREASE The outlet valve is opened and the inlet valve is closed during the pressure decrease cycle.
A pressure decrease cycle is initiated when speed sensor signals indicate high wheel slip at one or more wheels. At this point, the ABM closes the inlet then opens the outlet valve, which also opens the return circuit to the accumulators. Fluid pressure is allowed to bleed off (decrease) as needed to prevent wheel lock.
Once the period of high wheel slip has ended, the ABM closes the outlet valve and begins a pressure increase or hold cycle as needed.


PRESSURE HOLD Both solenoid valves are closed in the pressure hold cycle. Fluid apply pressure in the control channel is maintained at a constant rate. The ABM maintains the hold cycle until sensor inputs indicate a pressure change is necessary.


PRESSURE INCREASE The inlet valve is open and the outlet valve is closed during the pressure increase cycle. The pressure increase cycle is used to counteract unequal wheel speeds. This cycle controls re-application of fluid apply pressure due to changing road surfaces or wheel speed.

to relieve the brake pressure to move the vehicle , open the bleeder ******* at each wheel for a half second
but you will have to replace the failed hydro booster unit or you will get the same problem back or have no brake assist during braking

Did your lift kit come with new extended brake lines?
You mentioned the brakes feel like they are "on" and you can't pump up your pedal anymore.That makes me think that like most lift kits,nothing is provided to re-locate the rear rubber brake line that is mounted to the top of the rear differential. It may be stretched so far that it's kinked on both ends allowing fluid to the rear brakes thru hydraulic pressure but not being allowed to release on it's own. Just a thought. Good Luck!