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If possible, please transfer the lights to another working bike and check if the lights work when that bike is turned on. If so, then your bike needs to be repaired (might need old wires changed) before your lights and horn will function again.
Are you somewhat proficient taking a look at electrical things? If not, it doesn't make much sense to try to check things out with any of us. If you are, let us know and we can start a diagnostic approach. You will need, at least, a Volt Meter so we can look at some points.
Blown fuse ,bad headlight switch,or wiring issue.
the tail lights have there own fuse and are powered through headlight switch. Do the front running lights come on? If none of them work, switch could be bad if front work and rears dont, check bulbs and power to them when lights are on
You'll probably need a shop manual to get all of the wiring diagrams.
It sounds like you fried several main wires in the harness.
The excessive voltage may have cooked the gauge cluster and fed back thru the headlight switch. The warning light on the dash provides the circuit to "turn on" the alternator when the engine starts.
If it's the alternatoryou can test it easily:
Once you get your car to start (if you need to jump it) leave it running. Have someone stand near the front and watch your headlights. Rev the engine a little, if your headlights get brighter then your alternator is fine. You can also test your alternator by, while the car is running, disconnect the negative cable from your battery. If your car does not die after that, then it is a different problem, maybe the relay, P.S. Turn off your car before reconnecting any cables.
THERE THE POWER I BELIEVE COMES THROUGH THE LOW BEAM SWITCH ON THE HANDLE BARS........I AM HAVING A PROBLEM WITH THE DRIVING LIGHTS STAYING ON WHEN I SWITCH ON MY HEADLIGHT MODULATOR.............MODULATOR USES THE HIGH BEAM SECTION AND YOU MUST HAVE HIGH BEAM ON TO WORK.............THIS CUTS OFF THE RUNNING LIGHTS........AM ATTEMPTING TO CORRECT THIS PROBLEM..
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