I just bought a 2010 ninja 250r. The front breaks squeal constantly even when the breaks are not applied. Are the pads going to have to be removed in order to fix this problem, or there some kind of cleaner I can use on the rotor without taking the pads off?

anti squeal pads/ springs not fitted during replacement
disc pad material incorrect
There are 3 pads on sale for different motoring applications and maybe the pads are too hard or soft for your driving

Squealing from brakes when applied (and sometimes even when not) is a common issue with many vehicles. There are a number of reasons for it, most often it is the brake shoes/pads themselves. Most manufacturers today install ceramic brake pads as OEM parts, but due to their cost, most drivers opt for semi-metallic pads when replacing them. Most manufacturers recommend anti-squeal shims and/or compound be applied to brake pads for disc systems, but they are often ignored and not installed. Older, sticky calipers can also cause poor release of brake pads, resulting in drag and noise. Lastly, worn, warped, and thin rotors can add to noise issues. Having well serviced, quality brake parts and using proper installation techniques will usually remedy brake noise issues. Just as a side note, residual dirt and grease from the installation itself can cause noisy brakes for a few days/weeks after first install until it is worn off and the pads break in. If you have issue beyond the first two weeks, and you have had them installed professionally, take it back and have them verify that the pads were installed properly.

If it sat for a while that could be your problem with the carbs. Its what it sounds like to me. How long was it sitting before you got it? It could also be that your air fuel ratio is off.

hold up right there, listen if you want your bike to be dependable you need to break it in like the factory says. it will only do you good my friend.

The brake pad quality make alot of difference. Brake manufacture uses differnt ratio of ingredients some are heavy on the steel wool,some alot of carbon for quietness there is a difference in prices also

Oil and filter always a good idea, air filter depends on how many miles the bike has done and whether you're riding in dusty conditions. You may get away with vacuuming it out. As for tyres, yes the bigger profile will fit but does it adversely affect the handling??? Will your insurance pay out if you change the tyre and fall off because of it?
Kawasaki recommend a 120 profile for a reason. Me, I'd leave it the standard size.

To install:

1. Siphon a small amount of brake fluid from the reservoir. Press in the brake caliper piston with the proper tool.
2. Before installing the new pads, check the disc thickness and disc runout.
3. Install the pad support plates.
4. Install the anti-squeal shims to each pad.
   NOTE Apply disc brake grease to both sides of the inner anti-squeal shims.
   
5. Install the disc pads so the wear indicator plate is facing downward.
6. If removed, install the anti-squeal springs.
7. Carefully install the brake caliper so the boot is not wedged.
8. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
9. Check and adjust the fluid level. Apply the brake pedal several times.
10. Roadtest the vehicle for proper operation.

Well the front brakes aren't good if they squeal as squeling alone is going to raise my eye to somethings wrong. Good breakes don't squeal. Thumping like you say may be the rotors may be out of round as the brake that squeals is'nt returning all the way when it's not being applied making it get too hot ruiening the brake pads boiling the brake pads and warping the rotors. Motorcycle rotors don't urn well ( machine at parts store ) and the service is'nt recomened as the saftty of the rider is put in jeporty.. You don't need to crash because you bikes not up to good. *** rotrs can be bought on the internet and catalog suppliers as the aftermarket sells these popular bike parts. The dealer parts are only a little better and they will cost plenty. If in dought have a pro do it. The life you may save may be your own,

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

To my knowledge, there would only be 3 wires needed from the handlebars that affects the engine:

• engine RUN/OFF;
• clutch ENGAGED;
• engine START.

The first 2 would go to the interlock plus the neutral wire and the sidestand wire. The interlock then sends signals that starter motor can turn and that CDI can fire.

As to the ignition coil, 1 wire is IGN B+12 while the other would go to the CDI and should pulsate when cranking or engine running.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.