Need to know where clutch cable runs from tranny to fairring. need diagram

don't want to shift? fills a huge basket ,
1: grinds?
2: can't get in to some gears.? or all gears.? (engine running and not)?
3: clutch drags, clutch slips kills all gears, or just 5th.
drag kills them all and reverse 1st , its the canary gear. !! non synchro
4: noise.? or chatter, ****,larchig, or throwout hash ,?

here is the clutch page, link below.

the #1 failure for a gear not Selecting is a $5 fix.
the tip of the shifter shaft, plastic POS is broken, bar none this failure,#1 and sold only at SUZ, get em' while you can they are chapter 11 ANDGM/GEO is brain dead , ask them , and you get blank stares.

this can be proven, by selecting the gears by hand. running.
if failure, cant move those fork rods?
running? only
if you cant, the clutch is dragging. see why?
works stalled means the clutch drags.
can you shift to 1st stalled, start engine drive off can you get any gear? yes,if yes , constantly? with no grinding, the clutch is ok.

to do that manual shifter off test test the shifter must be removed.



the we get to the cable.
see the 1inch rule here, no guessing.
play set to spec, and you floor the pedal , person 2 sees 1 inch travel, (END new cable worry)
if it moves 1inch and the tranny can not be SELECTED.
the clutch is bad, if you can select only stalled motor.
if selection fails all time, stalled and running, the tranny is siezed.
covers every fail logged by 1000s of users

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clutch-on-kick.html

sounds like your clutch if not hydrolic needs a little adjustment or the syncronizer is going bad.. look for a cable when someone depresses the clutch where it attaches to the side of the tranny usually if adjustable the bolt is a 10 mm or 12 mm need usually a pair of pliars and a wrench.,..good luck;/

Well you know a shop is going to love you, they make good money from clutch and tranny jobs. I would guess about $1500. Depends on where you live and where you take the car. I don't think they have a cable anymore, should be hydraulic, and if the throwout bearing is shot, you will replace everything while you are in there. No sense taking it apart and then doing it again in a couple months. It is a fairly easy job, the tranny comes out easier than most people think, Get the flywheel turned, new clutch, make sure it fits the spindle before starting, new pressure plate and throw out bearing. It will be like new. What is it doing anyway? Is it slipping?, Chattering? hard shift? Check it out.

probably have to remove driveline, maybe remove awd unit, unbolt tranny, and lower it. unbolt and slide clutch plate and disc out. fairly simple task. make sure you use the alignment key that comes with the clutch :) tranny is kinda heavy so use a jack or tranni stand. need more detailed info just ask and ill look further into your specific car :)

sounds like you need a clutch. Yes the friction plates should move a bit when you pull your clutch lever in that is how the clutch works what oil are you running in you tranny and have you tried adjusting the clutch cable? When you had your clutch apart what did the friction plates look like was there much meat left on them?

You may find that this job is quite difficult as the transmission needs to come out, drive shafts, shifter, etc. Not a task for a novice, fairly complicated...

Loosen cables to tranny, loosen drive shaft support bolts, loosen tranny bolts after tranny is supported, Pull back and lower tranny. Loosen engine from mounts if necessary.

You can view a full free online repair manual if you go to autozone.com and register for free. Use it anytime. It has all the information, diagrams, pics, how-to's, replacing, testing, part locations, specs, and more.

I recommend it to everyone.

check this site out, i know it says yamaha in the link but you can choose your bike from the site and it will show you an exploded view of your clutch
http://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/1/Yamaha.aspx

start off bt taking off your shifter, then disconnect the wires,cables, and the 4x4 linkage, the drop out both drive shafts, support the tranny and transfer case then remove the tranny mount. take out the bolts on the bell housing that go into the motor the pull out the slave cylinder,and the last thing to remove is the cross member that holds up your tranny. after that slide the tranny back about 6 inches tor until it's free from the block and lower it down. after you get it on the ground pull of out clutch fork that is in the bell housing of your tranny, pull the bearing off the shaft that is in the bell housing as well. and last but not least take off the clutch plate ans the clutch disk that is on the fly wheel on your block. and i cant stress this enough be careful when you pull the tranny out and make sure it will not fall on you. so please do it carefully. And take your time.

your  gonna need to open the primary and take off the tranny cover, the end of the cabke connects to the ball and ramp assembly. you'll also need to take off both handle bar  grips.follow the origoanl routing.  i'd go ahead and drain yer tranny  and primary fluid firt. take alook at the ball and ramp assembly, are u with me soo far ? g