How tight should clutch basket bolts be,do you just screw them all the way down?

hi there you need to take the clutch cover off after draining the oil ,remove the bolts going into the clutch basket take the springs out as well if you have the cash put in new springs when installing the clutch ,after you take the outer off then take out the plates and have acheck on size and wear ,then there should be a large nut and lock washer tap down the tab that stops the nut spinning loose then put your foot on the back brake and undo the nut this will be very tight if you have a air rattle gun this makes life a lot easier .then replacing the clutch basket it would be good sense to put a new bearing in the clutch houseing then put it back together in the oposite direction cheers hopes this helps cheers

take clutch case off , you then see the clutch basket and you need to remove the center plate with about 6 bolts , then remove the fiber coated plates along with metal plates .. then replace first a fiber coated plate followed by a metal plate then a fiber following this until all plates are in and a fiber plate is showing ! then replace the cover plate with 6 bolts , tighten all bolts then undo the center nut with the adjusting screw and back it off until there is slight free play on the clutch leaver as you pull it and then release! lock the nut up holding the screw and try ! soak fiber plates for an hour before installing also ! cheers

RS50 Torque Specs

Component ft-lb Nm
Cylinder head nuts 10.3 -11.8 14 -16
Cylinder studs 7.4 - 8.9 10 - 12
Spark plug 14.8 - 18.4 20 - 25
Intake manifold bolts 6.6 - 8.1 9 - 11
Clutch basket retaining nut 40.6 - 44.3 55 - 60
Clutch spring bolts 2.2 - 3.7 3 - 5
Clutch adjustment screw Screw in fully seated
Clutch adjustment locking nut 19.2 - 20.7 26 - 28
Clutch cover bolts 7.4 - 8.9 10 - 12
Oil drain plug 12.5 - 13.3 17 - 18
Water pump cover bolts 3.0 - 4.4 4 - 6
Coolant drain plug 3.0 - 4.4 4 - 6
Flywheel cover bolts 0.7 - 1.5 1 - 2
Flywheel rotor nut 31.7 - 33.2 43 - 45
Stator plate crews 2.2 - 3.0 3 - 4
Stator screws 2.2 - 3.0 3 - 4


See this link: http://www.apriliaforum.com/techtips...torquespec.htm

http://www.apriliamotard.co.uk/post/torque-settings-sxrx50-7231858

To replace the clutch discs in your clutch pack, first disconnect the battery and drain the oil from the primary case. Remove the primary case. Take the circlip in the middle of the clutch assembly out and remove the clutch adjuster plate. Then loosen and remove the bolts that hold the clutch together. Loosen them all and take them out evenly loosening each bolt one or two turns at a time so as not to warp the clutch spring. Once you get this off, you can remove the spring and the clutch plates. As you take the individual parts out, notice the sequence that they are installed in the clutch basket. When you replace the parts you wish to replace, make sure you get everything back in the proper order. Put a little Loctite 242 med. blue on each of the bolts that hold the spring plate on. Replace the clutch adjuster plate and circlip. Replace the primary cover and fill with oil up to the bottom edge of the outer clutch basket with the bike standing straight up. Do not overfill or your clutch will drag. Adjust the clutch according to the manual.

To adjust the clutch, find the clutch cable adjuster in the middle of the clutch cable. Slide the protective boot up or down and loosen the lock nut. Turn the adjuster barrel inwards to get as much slack as you can get.

Remove the derby if you don't have it off. Loosen the lock nut on the adjuster screw in the middle of the clutch assembly. Back the center screw up until it's completely free and then turn it back in until you feel a resistance. DO NOT FORCE THE SCREW. It will break the inner clutch hub if you force it. If necessary, perform this several times to get the "feel" of what you're doing. Once you feel the resistance, stop, then back off 1/2 turn. Tighten the lock nut down.

Then go back to the cable adjuster and turn the adjuster barrel out until you've got about an 1/8 freeplay in the cable. Squeeze the clutch a few times and recheck the freeplay. Tighten the lock nut and replace the rubber boot.

Good Luck
Steve

The whole basket isn't all that great to take off....but if you are just changing the clutch plates, you won't need to remove the basket. There will be an outside pressure plate holding them all in there, usually 5 bolts hold that down (those 5 bolts also have the clutch springs under them) Pull that off, and inside there will be the part that your clutch pushrod moves to release tension on the plates (sorry forgot the name of it right now) make sure that when that comes off, that you don't lose the ball bearing behind it. Goodluck.

1) Release the pressure on the system by unhooking the clutch handle from the cable
2) Identify which side of the crank holds the clutch mechanism. Probably opposite the chain drive sprocket which means the clutch is on the right side as you sit on the bike. Spray off sand or grit that may fall into the works as the case cover comes off.
3) Drain the gear case oil
4) Remove the kick starter by removing the bolt holding the lever onto the starter shaft. Carefully, maybe with a impact driver screwdriver, loosen and remove the screws holding the round clutch cover from the engine crankcase. There are probably five, maybe seven, Phillips screwheads or maybe with ten mm hex heads. They will be different lengths so remember which holes each came from. I always replace screws with hex head bolts 'cause the screws can be a pain to remove.
5) Remove the clutch cover. You may need to remove the footpeg. there may be a steel ball bearing about 8mm diameter roll out of the center of the basket, so watch for it.
6) The clutch will be covered by a 'basket' held down by probably six bolts recessed into the basket.
7) As you remove the basket, you will find rings made of metal alternating with rings of fiber. Remove these, noting the order. If the metal rings are not blued or scratched, you can use them again. The fiber ones will need to be replaced, at about $7 each. Oil them and put new fiber rings back, starting with fiber and ending with fiber. I smear oil on the fiber plates before I put them in. You will see notches in the teeth at the edge of the fiber plates, and want to not line these up with each other.
8) Put the cover back, usually using a new gasket, or at least silicone. Leaks here make a mess and it's worth taking time to get it sealed.
9) Fill with amount of oil specified on the side of the crankcase. Make sure you use 'cycle oil, with MA rating. Auto oils will allow the clutch to slip, and make it burnout quicker.

buddy you have too torque the springs up to the manuals specifications with a torque wrench and did you install the push rod in the middle off the basket try and get a manual first buddy get back to me

are you shure you have ALL the clutch plates?? the cable is well lubed? the pushrodbearing/adjuster may be in the middle of the clutch basket cover plate. OR you have the wrong springs installed!

hi m8,, wen u put spring bolts and springs on,, u must do them right up ,, untill the spring is completly comprest,, ,untill the spring bolt wont do up any more,,cheers

most likely just clutch ck for oil or water on it if oil most likely top seal gearcase is leaking ..remove agitator cap remove bolt in middle of agitator ..remove console screws remove clips under console holding cabinet on remove cabinet ..lean washer back remove pump then motor remove the 3 bolts holding gearcase in remove gearcase clutch is silver disk on top of gearcase with band inside ..band is actual clutch may try cleaning it but not hopeful about it being a permanet fix